Key thing is what is making the misfire? Plugs are rarely the cause. I would guess a coil for the cost and ease of swapping the coil to another cylinder and seeing if the fault follows the coil, why not give that a try first?
Remove the 2 10mm nuts at the top left and bottom right of the coil. Plugs 1 & 6 have earthing straps.
Pull up the silver clip at the bottom of the coil with your fingers and gently ease out the connector. Now the coil can be lifted out.
Now using your spark plug socket with at least a 6" extension bar, you can remove the plugs and replace the new ones.
I used a high temp spark plug lubricant/ anti-seize compund so I tightened the plugs until just firmly tight. The spark plug torque is 30Nm otherwise.
Repeat the procedure for all 6 plugs and follow the reverse procedure to replace the microfilter housing.
This post was helpful but a few things were not clear, in particular on the "pull up the silver clip" part. I ended up watching a youtube video and it all worked out!
Just used this DIY...excellent job.
Let me just add that after 53,xxx miles, my plugs had virtually no wear. I still replaced them with the OEM NGK's, however now I know I won't ever need to replace them again.
I believe they are truly 100,000 mile plugs.
Oh, come on! NGK vs Bosch is like Mac vs Windows. That's so last Tuesday.Thanks for the write up OP. And FalconGuy I am with you 100%. The only reason to pull the plugs early would be to apply some anti-seize on the threads. 100,000 miles are a long way to wait to find a seized plug. Even though it would be along shot. I have never had good fortune with Bosch plugs. NGK's on the other hand rock.
Quick question. Recently had my 325CI major serviced (75,000KM) at a mechanic that service mainly BMW and Mercs. Part of that was changing the spark plugs, would that make the car be not as responsive when accelerating if you don't use the right spark plugs? I think it would, what are your thoughts?
There is no bigger/better spark or more complete combustion, if there was the MFG would be all over it since more complete combustion would gain lower emissions, more HP and huge tax advantages for pennies per car, it either sparks or it doesn't, no science or data at all to support that 4 prongs are better than 1,2, or 3.
Not to thread crap but its just bad info that gets past around a lot. Kind of like vented/slotted rotors ( with less braking area thus less friction material and correspondingly less braking efficiency) will somehow give better performance. They dont, never have, never will. Its a simple equation, how much surface area do the pads have to contact, take any away and the performance goes down.
One of the biggest waste of your DIY dollars and potentially the easiest to cause significant engine damage is using a plug other than that of the MFG's specs. The best part is the NGK OEM's are a few bucks each. People spend the price of a set of 6 OEM plugs for ONE Iridium or 4 prong or the latest rage plug, ask a mechanic, one you trust, dont take my word for it, he will tell you its snake oil.
Please dont think I'm calling anyone a liar or dumb, there is a lot of misinformation out there and this is something I know quite a bit about. Changing your plugs at 50K BTU is overkill, wasted money, if you can live with that then go ahead., but dont expect any tangible benefit, because you will not get any. You will one day, when the car wont start and after changing the failed plug /plugs then you will see the benefit, no sooner.
Its like a light bulb, it works or it doesn't, there is no in between:eeps: