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Hi guys. My alternator went bad and battery was on its way too. I jump started my car 2 times to move it, and I wanted to jump start it once more to move it to the garage, but it wouldnt start. It cranks, but doesnt start. I tried putting another battery in it, but it didnt start either, although it cranked. I have today replaced the alternator and the battery.

Does this car have an "emergency mode" ? I have been told that it now doesnt start because it is in emergency mode because I tried to start it serveral times while the battery was low voltage, and that I need to code the battery.

What do I have to do now, to start the car? Does the battery just need to be coded or do I have to reset something with a computer too?

I dont know if its important, but its a 520d.

Thanks in advance
 

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as far as i know you dont need to register the battery to allow the car to start. ive placed new battery into my vehicle and it started fine before i registered it.

here is something that happened to me. my battery was going out and at some point it messed with my low pressure fuel pump. the car would crank but would not start. i ended up replacing the battery as it was on its way out.
after the battery replacement it still wouldnt start. 1/4 of gas in tank.

here was what was happening-
the gas tank has 2 parts left and right side. left side (drivers side) has the fuel syphon that transfers the fuel from the left side of the tank to the fuel pump on the right side. somehow with the battery dying it never transferred the fuel to the right side. it took me awhile to realize that there was no fuel on the right side and the vehicle was acting it had no gas. to fix this. fill up your gas tank if it's low.

once the gas was on the right side of the tank the car started and everything went back to normal after the battery replacement.

now if you have a full tank of gas then its probably not the same issue. thats pretty much all i can chime in on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Coding for the new battery will do nothing for you to get the car started. Coding will only optimize the charging cycle for a new battery and alter as the battery ages.
So there is no "emergency mode" the car can enter when you jump start it several times with alternator not working at all and a dead battery, causing it not to start ?
 

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So there is no "emergency mode" the car can enter when you jump start it several times with alternator not working at all and a dead battery, causing it not to start ?
I am not aware of such a thing. And if this "Emergency Mode" was told to you by the same person that said you need to code the battery to fix it... well.... you can ignore pretty much anything this person has to say on the subject.
 

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I am not aware of such a thing. And if this "Emergency Mode" was told to you by the same person that said you need to code the battery to fix it... well.... you can ignore pretty much anything this person has to say on the subject.
Guy works at BMW. He told me that after I tried to start the car several times with low voltage on battery, the car entered "emergency mode" ( Sry I dont know if its the correct term for this, I am not from an English speaking country). So he told me that I needed to code the battery and run diagnostic ( maybe to clear error codes?) . He charges 200 USD for both diagnostic and battery coding, which is a bit high compared to what im used to. I have an option to get it all done for 35 USD, but the guy that can do it sees no correlation between coding and diagnostics and the car not starting, so I am not sure about what I should do.

What else might have coincidentally went bad on the same day, causing the car to crank but not start?
 

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the car entered "emergency mode" - I am Curious what this is and want to learn more

code the battery - this should be done at some point

and run diagnostic - always a great first step. $150 is standard BMW rate for diagnosis where I am

guy that can do it sees no correlation between coding and diagnostics and the car not starting - agreed

But... you need a proper scan of the codes to see if there is anything helpful there. You can buy a BMW capable scanner and read the codes yourself. If you plan to keep a BMW, do yourself a favor and get one. Look into the MHD app for Android and buy a cable.
 

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just buy a BMW INPA/Ediabas K+DCAN OBDII Cable (or whichever cable for your year and model) and do it yourself. costs like 30$ on average. can register the battery and clear the codes in seconds. all the softwares are free to get you started and you have it for life. dont bother with carly for bmw bull****. ****s garbage.

probably best to clear the codes and see if any of the codes reappear. otherwise i doubt anyone here can really help you without some sort of code reading. youre working blind here.
 

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just buy a BMW INPA/Ediabas K+DCAN OBDII Cable (or whichever cable for your year and model) and do it yourself. costs like 30$ on average. can register the battery and clear the codes in seconds. all the softwares are free to get you started and you have it for life. dont bother with carly for bmw bull****. ****s garbage.

probably best to clear the codes and see if any of the codes reappear. otherwise i doubt anyone here can really help you without some sort of code reading. youre working blind here.
Thanks for tips. I will get one for the future. As for tomorrow, a guy will come and clear codes and register the battery, hopefully the car will start after clearing codes or maybe find out what the problem is. I havent tried starting the car with the brand new 100ah battery and alternator I bought today though, because I had forgotten car key at home. The battery I previously had tried to start the car with, when jump starting didnt work with my old dead battery in the car, was a smaller 75ah battery. Although I dont know if a smaller battery would cause it not to start.
 

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What makes you believe that the alternator is bad? It sounds like a battery issue to me. Not sure of the CCA, but 75ah seems rather low. Get yourself a battery which meets or exceeds specs.

Also, a new battery may not be fully charged. When I replaced my battery, I had to charge it for several hours as I was getting an excessive current draw warning.

Let us know what the problem turned out to be.
 

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Coding for the new battery will do nothing for you to get the car started. Coding will only optimize the charging cycle for a new battery and alter as the battery ages.
So there is no "emergency mode" the car can enter when you jump start it several times with alternator not working at all and a dead battery, causing it not to start ?
I just dealt with similar issue this month. My battery was weak and car would crank but not start. Tried jumping a bunch of times and didn***8217;t start. I ended up replacing battery but the car had a 2F44 code for ***8220;EWS manipulation***8221;, which I think is what your tech is saying about ***8220;emergency mode***8221;. If you crank and have too many no-starts the computer will lock out the car from starting. You need to read the BMW codes and see if an EWS or CAS manipulation code is there. Then get it cleared, if so. I had to get INPA to clear it though I think other BMW software can also clear it. Note BMW Carly can read this code in diagnostic but can***8217;t resync the DME and EWS/CAS.

Some more information in my recent thread!
 

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Coding for the new battery will do nothing for you to get the car started. Coding will only optimize the charging cycle for a new battery and alter as the battery ages.
So there is no "emergency mode" the car can enter when you jump start it several times with alternator not working at all and a dead battery, causing it not to start ?
I just dealt with similar issue this month. My battery was weak and car would crank but not start. Tried jumping a bunch of times and didn't start. I ended up replacing battery but the car had a 2F44 code for "EWS manipulation", which I think is what your tech is saying about "emergency mode". If you crank and have too many no-starts the computer will lock out the car from starting. You need to read the BMW codes and see if an EWS or CAS manipulation code is there. Then get it cleared, if so. I had to get INPA to clear it though I think other BMW software can also clear it. Note BMW Carly can read this code in diagnostic but can't resync the DME and EWS/CAS.

Some more information in my recent thread!


So,yes, you are right. There was EWS/DME tampering fault, diagnosis guy didnt manage to reset them, though..
 

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If the fault is still there I don***8217;t believe your car will start. Will crank but not start. At least that***8217;s the issue I had. If you***8217;ve addressed any other issues that led to the original problem then I think you now need to get the DME and EWS/CAS synced. Also try a different key fob just in case.
 

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I was thinking of buying an INPA cable and actually trying to sync EWS/DME myself. Do you know if this procedure is doable if you are completely green on the subject?
 

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I was thinking of buying an INPA cable and actually trying to sync EWS/DME myself. Do you know if this procedure is doable if you are completely green on the subject?
Yes 100% doable if you can get INPA installed. It took me a while to get the right version and I still ended up in German. I don't know which is the right package to install. Bimmertech has one. There's a Mike's easy BMW Tools package too. I bought a $16 cable from Amazon - make sure to check the reviews.

I also found couple of folks on Craigslist who would have done it for $50 and I would have gone that route if I couldn't get INPA installed. There's also a list somewhere on the forums of various forum members and their locations who may be willing to help reset the code for you.

First step is to make sure that***8217;s the code you have. You can read it with INPA.

By the way, did you try starting with a different key fob? I'm still not clear if BMW locks out the entire car or just the key.
 
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