[Jojrsweat]

Hey guys, i really hit a roadblock here & im in need of some assistance please! Now, from what I think I understand now... I can use a blankmans file to run default to LM2 but I am pretty new at coding and I'm still learning the basics so I'm in need of help! Can someone please explain how to do this? I want to code the new LM2 using a blankmans file then run default to LM2? Can someone please explain the steps to do this on NCSExpert then run it on WINKFP, I was missing the location of a file but I've figured that out now on winkfp. I was trying to do this to get the daytime running lights & brighter angel eyes setting. I have found how to do the DTR lights but I haven't found anything on the E63 coding brighter angel eyes with the LM2. Is this even do able on a E63? If anyone can help? Thanks so much guys in advance! Like I said I'm just starting out on coding, only about a week in as of now. Is it also correct that when coding/exporting files from ncsdummy you should only code/export one thing at a time to the psw/trc file? It'll probably be awhile before I'm any good at this.

 

[Hsurf]

Have you been following the guide in this link? All the info should be there.

E63/64 - Lighting

Fuse Layouts Reference: 645Ci Fuse Layout (Link by TopDownInFL) Reference: Fuse Layout _ Reference: 650i Fuse Layout (By coug60) Fuse Diagrams Here _ Reference: M6 Fuse Layout (By whatheheck (M5Board)) M6 Fuse Lay Out ____ Guides Troubleshooting Adaptive Headlights...

www.bimmerfest.com

There is the option to make them brighter on the E63 but they are normally at their brightest by default, if you're looking for something more like the F series cars then I'm afraid you won't get it unless you start making modifications to the headlights themselves rather than coding. The style angle eyes fitted to these cars simply won't allow for it no matter what type of bulb you fit.
Coding does take a while to get to grips with but pretty easy once you know and have done a couple of bits, I'd advise doing plenty of reading up first so you have a good understanding, it can be all too easy to make a mistake and then go down a rabbit hole.
There is a good coding forum on this site that deals with all series BMW's.
There is also a BMWCoding site that is very good as well.

 

[Jojrsweat]

Thanks for the reply, yes, I finally figured out the coding error! Thanks to Bimmerfest! Actually found the answer by simply using this method I've attached. Man all my errors went away & I just put my lm1 back in. I've ordered the diagonal acrylic iconic angel eyes and new clear lenses and turn signals and led strips to retrofit inside the turn signals. Ill hopefully be able to post a pic and do a little DYI pdf for anyone interested. I've already swapped out the fogs so the glass is fresh and new too. Looks pretty sweet so far. But the headlights I'm excited for!

 

[HerbP]

Anytime you change a module from a different car, the vin number must be entered into the new module to work with your car. NCSExpert will not do this, but WINKFP, or ISTA/P will do the job.

 

[Hsurf]

Anytime you change a module from a different car, the vin number must be entered into the new module to work with your car. NCSExpert will not do this, but WINKFP, or ISTA/P will do the job.

+1 .

The LM2 will work in your car but depending on whether it's a new unit or pre-owned you may have some weirdness to code out, mine came from a 5 series in the US and I had fog lights and indicators permanently on and no main beam for some reason, all sorted with a bit of coding though.

When you do the retrofit, make sure the lens is sealed up well with butyl, open up both the modules that sit on the outside of the headlight to check for water damage from the previous owner and lastly, check that the seals on the two access doors are in good condition .

 

[Jojrsweat]

Oh yes, thanks man. I've already had to replace the adaptive control module in the left headlight due to condensation. Thats why I ordered the new lenses, might as well do it all now. That's also why I ordered the iconic acrylic angel eyes so I could just do it all at once. My fingers are crossed that I get a set that dont have issues after 2 weeks.... if that happens I will be very annoyed! But I know the risks in a aftermarket angel eyes. I hear it's the super cheap ones that ppl buy but I wasn't going to spend a grip, I spent about $140 for the 4 thick angel eyes. When I wire them up, I ordered a set that comes with a real nice relay pre-wired. Is it really easy as just hooking them up in place of the old angel eye bulbs? So what type of glue you say butyl? Type of brand name product is it? As far as the LM2, ya I think im just going to leave it be. When I turn on my parking lights my angel eyes come on so I don't care about the DTR. When I hooked up the LM2 the DTR (highbeam)came on permanently soon as my key was in the ignition. Also i dont think it was from the US. Looked like it was from the UK, all the settings were from UK. Well gotta get up early for work mayne! THANKS ONCE AGAIN FOR THE INFORMATION GUYS!

 

[Jojrsweat]

Anytime you change a module from a different car, the vin number must be entered into the new module to work with your car. NCSExpert will not do this, but WINKFP, or ISTA/P will do the job.

Wow, such simple things that I didn't realize til now when I read this. I didn't do that. But the only video I could find on Winkfp was in a different setting than mine. I have ZUSB but the video was some other settings that I didn't understand.Well I am out of here til the next day!

 

[Hsurf]

You should have both WINKFP and Tool32 programs in your software set, I think in the link I posted above there's a guide for how to change the vin at the back of the LM1 to LM2 conversion DIY. It either contains one or both programs (I forget now) but that should get you sorted out as well as some of the coding options, it is worth swapping to the LM2 as there's a lot more that can be done with it versus the LM1.

I'm not sure on what brands you guys get over there but go for one you trust, a google search for butyl headlight sealant should yield good results, some people use silicone but if you go this route, make sure it's a top quality one that stays permanently flexible so it can move with the hot/cold expansion/contraction of the headlight.

 

[HerbP]

Wow, such simple things that I didn't realize til now when I read this. I didn't do that. But the only video I could find on Winkfp was in a different setting than mine. I have ZUSB but the video was some other settings that I didn't understand.Well I am out of here til the next day!

If you go into INPA, you can print out a list of modules under the UIF tab, if I remember correctly. Then you can use WinKFP , to change the vin number. You must set WinKFP up correctly to get it to work. I think BMWCoding.com has a DIY for this.

 

[Jojrsweat]

I've got it back to the previous settings & all errors are now gone. I guess the only question I have left is, if the new LM2 is set to permanently run DTR as soon as my key is in the ignition is there a way to turn this off? I don't like that. Honestly I'd like to have them on but once the car is driving. I don't want to be sitting in my car watching HBO & my DTR lights be on cause my key's in the ignition. If I can't change this I'll just leave the LM1 in. I'm just waiting for my iconic acrylic angel eyes to come in, the new clear lenses, and the upgraded 3.0 hexagon projectors to get here. The 7k devil eye kit has showed up first so once the rest gets here I'll be overhauling both headlights. I've lost the straight line from the projectors from the age of the car so I'm cleaning everything up. This all because I had condensation in the left HL. I decided to everything at once, one time and call it good. I'll post pics of the finished job once everything gets here. Should be within a week. Thanks again for all the feedback guys! You guys have been beyond helpful!! I mean it! I'd be lost doing the coding otherwise!👍🏽👍🏽

 

[Hsurf]

Once you have your vin programmed to the LM2 and you've done the coding you want, you'll be able to turn the DTR on and off in the iDrive just as you do with the LM1, the only reason you have all the weirdness going on is because the module isn't recognising the signals it is getting correctly.
I'm assuming you've got the correct LM2 for your car? If I remember right there's essentially 2, one with adaptive headlights and one without, then those two are split into country regions and all the other excuses they could find to make up as many part numbers as possible , but ultimately it boils down to the two as all the rest is pretty much how you code it. There's a list of the part numbers both in realoem and the DIY guide above if you feel the need to double check.
You essentially have the reverse problem I had where mine was from the US and yours from the UK so once you've got your vin setup, take your time going through the coding options and use NCS Dummy to translate what each item is, it's actually quite a quick thing to do but can take a while to go through it the first time round.

 

[Jojrsweat]

Once you have your vin programmed to the LM2 and you've done the coding you want, you'll be able to turn the DTR on and off in the iDrive just as you do with the LM1, the only reason you have all the weirdness going on is because the module isn't recognising the signals it is getting correctly.
I'm assuming you've got the correct LM2 for your car? If I remember right there's essentially 2, one with adaptive headlights and one without, then those two are split into country regions and all the other excuses they could find to make up as many part numbers as possible , but ultimately it boils down to the two as all the rest is pretty much how you code it. There's a list of the part numbers both in realoem and the DIY guide above if you feel the need to double check.
You essentially have the reverse problem I had where mine was from the US and yours from the UK so once you've got your vin setup, take your time going through the coding options and use NCS Dummy to translate what each item is, it's actually quite a quick thing to do but can take a while to go through it the first time round.

Would you think I need the LM2 since I'm doing all the mods in the upcoming week? What do you think? Is it worth all the work when I'm changing the angel eyes anyways? If there's some benefit I'll do it but if it doesn't necessarily change anything I won't. Thx man

 

[Hsurf]

With the LM1 and the new led angel eyes you'll either need to fit resistors (unless they're pre-fitted) or code out the hot/cold bulb check from the LM, if you don't you'll get bulb errors popping up on the dash so in short, no, you don't need the LM2 for these mods. The list of options available with LM2 is huge compared to the LM1 but if you're happy with just the mods you're doing then you could sell the new module on and claw back some money from the headlight parts and put it towards something else, at the rate we're all going, it will probably be fuel .

 

[Jojrsweat]

With the LM1 and the new led angel eyes you'll either need to fit resistors (unless they're pre-fitted) or code out the hot/cold bulb check from the LM, if you don't you'll get bulb errors popping up on the dash so in short, no, you don't need the LM2 for these mods. The list of options available with LM2 is huge compared to the LM1 but if you're happy with just the mods you're doing then you could sell the new module on and claw back some money from the headlight parts and put it towards something else, at the rate we're all going, it will probably be fuel .

Well the LM2 was only $15 on Ebay. Plus $7 shipping. What are the main things that are different? I only bought it because I think there was a setting to make the oem angel eyes brighter but I didn't see this when I was messing with the coding. But now that I have the new iconic angel eyes, they'll be much brighter than factory anyways. I had already swapped out the factory angel eye bulbs to led bulbs and they match the hid fogs & HID low beam but they just weren't bright enough. When I turn on the parking lights with the LM1 the angel eyes turn on. I'm going to wire them so that when the parking lights are on the angel eyes turn on & the demon eyes turn on. Probably going to run the demon eyes to a toggle so I can turn them off when the low beams are on & if I choose to I can have only the demon eyes on without the angel eyes too if I want. I guess if I have issues with the angel eyes I'll just deal with it if it happens. If I need to run resistors to the angel eyes I will, I've had to do it with my led license plate bulbs. But when I put in the led angel bulbs I didn't need a resistor for those. The angel eyes I ordered come with a nice relay harness, the seller explained that they'll extend the life of the angel eyes wiring in the relay harness also. So I'm just going to do it that way. If I do get the error I'll put in the resistor but i have no angel eye settings in my factory menu. Idk why. But thx again man!

 

[gadgets4u]

I have a Euro spec vehicle and opted to keep the LM(1) AHL which it was fitted with (and the limited coding options) and mod the wiring at the module to get the AE as DRLs. As getting a known good LM2 AHL here in NZ, changing the VIN, and then coding it correctly was a challenge I didn't want.
With a bit of additional wire, four 10A 50v diodes and an optional switch, you can have super bright LED AEs fairly quickly. And the only coding is the cold & warm monitoring on the AEs to not active.

 

[Jojrsweat]

Like these here? Where would I go in for the wiring at? Should I just heat shrink these diodes with wire coming out the ends? I'm wanting to do it this way as well. Thx alot for the input!

 

[gadgets4u]

I don't recommend doing this, unless you know which end of the soldering iron to hold, which is the cathode and which is the anode end of a diode, and how to use a multimeter to find an accessory power source.
To keep any water away from diodes I did the changes to the wiring in the vehicle.
First, disconnect the battery.
Then run a 20 Amp capable power cable, from an accessory power source. I used the cigarette lighter.
You can run it to a switch (or not) hidden on the steering column covers. The previous owner of my vehicle had one fitted for another device, now removed, so I used that.
Then drop down the LM AHL module.
You need to locate the two cables that supply the AEs, one for each side. Its been a while since I did it, so refer to WDS for them. I do recall they were about 20 or 30 pins a part.

Make sure you remove plenty of the sticky black cloth wiring loom tape that covers the cable branch to the LM AHL..
Leaving about 4cm of wire length in plug that attaches to the LM AHL module cut the first AE supply cable.

I must state, Using heat shrink is highly recommended on all exposed conductors/metal components, Insulation tape at a minimum.

A) Solder the first diode in that cut wire, so the Anode end of the diode is soldered to the wire from the module and the Cathode end is soldered to the end going to the AE.
Then take the Accessory supply cable solder another diode to it. Anode end to the supply cable, and then solder the cathode end of this diode to the cathode end of the first diode inserted in the AE cable.
Repeat the process on the other sides AE cable.

Or another way to describe the two diode connection is:
B)
Take two diodes, twist and solder their cathode ends together and solder these two cathodes to the cut cable going to the AE.
Then solder the accessory power to one Anode and solder the other anode to the cut wire from the LM AHL module. The repeat with the other AE cable.

The two diodes per side, act as blockers so niether the accessory power or the LM AHL monitoring circuits see each other and cause an error code/message.
Happy mod-ing.
BTW, any 30 - 50 Volt, 20 Amp, Rectifier Diodes should be OK.