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Not a real doctor.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Disclaimer: I'm no pro. Use this info at your own risk. And don't forget to put the oil plug back before you add new oil. And don't forget to add new oil before you drive your car again.

First, let me acknowledge the thread I used to help me with my first oil change at home:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217666

Here's my experience with my 328i coupe.

First I got the car up and level on jack stands.

Then I got under the car and located the door in the plastic shield underneath the car.





Using a quarter, you can turn the latch, open the door, and locate the oil plug.



After reading other threads, i was expecting oil to not come out straight, to get inside the plastic shield, to splatter, to be ill behaved. But it wasn't. The plug was horizontal, I backed it out and the stream came straight down.



While the oil is draining, make sure that you got the brass or copper crush ring. Mine came off with the plug, but others have reported it stays stuck in the car or they've lost it.



I got the Tischer kit that has the crush ring, the two O-rings, and, of course, the filter.



I also got the oil filter cap wrench.

After letting the oil drain a good long while, I put the new crush washer on the oil plug, replaced the plug, torqued it to 18 ft-lbs (which is not much), and then closed and latched the door. Be careful not to over-torque the plug. There are reports on the forum of people breaking these plugs off which pretty much wrecks their day.

I then opened the hood. Before you do anything, look for a small subtle dot between the cap over the filter and the housing. This should be all lined up. If it's not, somebody else fiddled with the cap and didn't put it back properly. Anyway, go ahead and loosen the cap and remove the oil filter.



Before going further, be sure to pause and look at how and where the old O-rings are installed. People have reported putting the new, large, black O-ring back in the wrong place.



Remove the old stuff and put on the new stuff. People report having problems getting the small O-ring off and I had a bit of difficulty too. I tried doing what other people have done, but in the end, I used a needle-nosed pliers and it worked great. Of course, you need to be careful not to scar the plastic or the new O-ring may not seat properly.



Replace the cap and screw it down hard enough to line up the dots. If you have no dots to guide you, you can torque it back to 18 ft-lbs too, I've read.

I used the BMW oil from Tischer.




I put in only six of the seven quarts, got the car off the stands, ran the car and checked the oil level. It was fine with only the six quarts. Every place I read about it, folks say it's just fine if the oil gauge doesn't read the maximum amount, but it's bad to overfill.

'Hope this post proves useful to folks.
 

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Breaking in the Pony
2019 Mustang GT / 2005 Toyota Tacoma
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6,419 Posts
Very nice description and pictures.

A few comments to add:

1 ) On my first oil change (3000 miles), when I went looking for the crush washer I thought it was lost. However, after picking and poking, I discovered that it was still on the bolt. The factory installed crush washer was made of aluminum or something similar, and looked for all the world like a shoulder on the plug bolt.

2 ) I still have not found a local store with the correct oil filter wrench. I have been able to remove and reinstall the filter cover by hand, but it takes a bit of effort to get the dots realigned.

3 ) On my second change (9000 miles), I did it about 30 minutes after coming home from a long drive. The oil was very warm and ran out of the pan very quickly, splashing out of my oil collector until I got it positioned JUST right.

4 ) I have found that I have been able to drain 6.5 quarts both times (front end up on ramps), replacing with 6 quarts and ending up in the middle of the oil level display. On the first change, I added another quart about 4000 miles later when it dropped down to the MIN point.

Again, a very nice writeup !!

Best regards,
George
 

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Skjoni's Dad
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1,733 Posts
Very nice job, professor! :thumbup:
 

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DirtyDeedsDoneDirtCheap
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339 Posts
Nice post, I always enjoy when there are pictures to go along with the words.
 

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Not a real doctor.
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5,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Zooks,

This post will be more useful to rookies because of your additions. Thanks.

MrBones and MikeCee... Thanks!
 

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BMWCCA Member #405750
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1,450 Posts
Nice write up. I will gather up the courage to do this now at some point. I noticed something on our cars (328i coupes) for the first time. Our cars are running dual exhaust pipes from the engine until the resonator, why did BMW cheap out and not run duals all the way out? Cost? I know this would have a increased performance benefit.
 

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Not a real doctor.
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5,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice write up. I will gather up the courage to do this now at some point. I noticed something on our cars (328i coupes) for the first time. Our cars are running dual exhaust pipes from the engine until the resonator, why did BMW cheap out and not run duals all the way out? Cost? I know this would have a increased performance benefit.
I don't know what the resonator is. If you look at the top photo, you can see that the dual pipes run for about 2/3 of the body length under the car. Are you sure it goes to one pipe at the resonator? (I haven't taken off the entire underbody shield.)
 

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Not a real doctor.
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5,702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great write-up prof!!! I've always done my own maintenance on every car I've owned and this one will be no exception. Big help with the photos!!
There's always a great debate out there on whether or not you should stick with the BMW recommended oil changes. I decided I'd go ahead and change my own oil between the scheduled maintenance. 15000 miles on the first oil fill seems a bit long to me. My 50,000 mile no maintenance deal won't last very long with the miles I drive, so I might as well learn how to do the basics on my own, eh?

'Glad the photos will help some.
 

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BMWCCA Member #405750
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I don't know what the resonator is. If you look at the top photo, you can see that the dual pipes run for about 2/3 of the body length under the car. Are you sure it goes to one pipe at the resonator? (I haven't taken off the entire underbody shield.)
If you look at the first pic, the resonator is right behind that gray brace. Right at that point it goes to one pipe leading into the muffler. I just looked under mine to confirm. Why did BMW cheap out?
 

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Registered
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283 Posts
Thanks! Excellent summary with pics! This mirrors my experience that you commented on. Since I originally posted more than two years ago, I have alternated changing the oil myself or having the dealer do it under warranty. I now have 45K on my car and am almost out of warranty. So far, so good, and according to my computer will not get another "free" oil change out of BMW (given my annual mileage, I have gotten two "free" oil changes, one new air filter, one new microfilter and one new set of wiper blades under the 50K warranty). Although the cooling system is "sealed" I plan to have my dealer replace the coolant and all hoses prior to 50K. I drove my last BMW 166K before trading in on my current 328, but do not trust some of BMW's maintenance schedules, such as a "sealed for life coolant system" which may be fine for three or four year owners, but not us 10 year + folks.
 

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Here comes trouble!
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8,356 Posts
Great write up, this will be valuable if I ever attempt the change myself. Alas, I have an indy shop do the change for me for $100 using the OEM filter and oil. Until they raise prices, I think I will stick with them.

I did oil changes and other basic maintenance on my old Ford but am somewhat intimidated with the BMW having so few areas under the car that are safe for a jack stand. (And yes, I did read your thread on how to get the car up on four jack stands and it did not help my fear of jacking the car up too often.) The Ford had so much steel running under it, there was never an issue finding jack points at random...
 

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Outside looking in
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6,325 Posts
PC - Did you soak the new paper filter in the old oil before replacing in housing?
 

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Here comes trouble!
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8,356 Posts
DIY guides that I have read had the car up on the Rhino Ramp for an Oil Change. Will not having the car horizontally leveled be really bad due to some dirty oil not being able to be drained?
I have actually heard the contrary. If you think of it, at an automotive shop they will always have the car up horizontally, won't they?

:dunno:
 

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Breaking in the Pony
2019 Mustang GT / 2005 Toyota Tacoma
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6,419 Posts
DIY guides that I have read had the car up on the Rhino Ramp for an Oil Change. Will not having the car horizontally leveled be really bad due to some dirty oil not being able to be drained?
I do mine on Rhino ramps. As noted, I get 6.5 of the 7.0 quarts out, leaving 1/2 quart. I have heard that some oil remains even if done level (as an example, PC was only able to put 6 quarts back in as well, even though he was level on the stands).

You'll never get a car completely dry. 1/4 to 1/2 quart will remain in some nooks. Unless you pick the whole thing up and shake it. ;)

FWIW,
George
 

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Outside looking in
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6,325 Posts
Thanks. If I pay a Stealership to have my oil changed, will they reset my Service indicator such that my free oil change will be pushed back or will they leave it alone?
They will not (well, shouldn't) reset the service indicator for intermediate oil changes.
 

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Here comes trouble!
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8,356 Posts
They will not (well, shouldn't) reset the service indicator for intermediate oil changes.
Especially if you tell them not to!
 
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