201
86 Mets Best team money didn't buy, Yankees best team money can buy
Nope shouldn't have left Brooklyn
Pizza.... The only bad part of that arguement is there are few real italian pizza places left.
But locally for me Stefanos has the best pizza. Federici's used to be good. Now it's just ok.
You forgot Shore vs Turnpike people.
You understand I'm making light of it all. So I'm not bashing what you did or saying what I did was better. However what I've learned about these cars and this job specifically. There's no short cut. You have to pull the ICV to clean it.
and changed his name.
As for being an arse, well, the last thing this WORLD needs is two Jersey boys arguing over something, without regard that Jersey boys love to argue about anything...201 vs 609, Yankees, Mets...whether the Dodgers should have left Brooklyn or not and the best place for a pizza...and you know, a real pizza, not one of these corporate Frisbees.
The idea behind the 21 point cleaning was it was purported to be FAST and EASY, and I was trying to clear up a rough idle. Anyone with an M50 engine knows the ICV valve is almost impossible to service properly WITHOUT taking off the manifold. I get that. In one of the sentences you wrote, you said it was easy, followed later by two sentences that used the word "difficult". I can do easy, the difficult takes slightly...well, who's kidding who, a whole lot longer.
Understood. There are more complicated jobs than ICV cleaning. The simplicity is dependant on your skill set. From your statement, I gather you've turned more than a few wrenches in your time. So to that effect. This is should be a walk in the park for you.
I've pulled manifolds and sometimes, lo and behold, getting them back on and sealing properly tends to make me wish I never started (and lets not talk about breaking a stud removing it from the old '66 Plymouth--in winter, of course)
There are threads about whether you need to remove the manifold to change the starter, and 60 responses to the thread left me with the feeling of..."it depends".
One thing you didn't mention is whether you need a gasket set once you crack open the intake. I assume you do, so there's an additional expense that you may or may not need IF the 21 point cleaning works. The only thing I didn't fully understand was the use of "WD-40", as it's known as "Water Dispersing compound #40". Supposed to displace carb cleaner, which would normally evaporate or burn off, or erroneously thought to be a lubricant, which we all agree it is not. Just look on the can, and you'll not see lubricant. WD-40 made a great lubricant called "TAL-5", but it never made it commercially as a success. I was lucky to have a rep drop off some samples and it was great stuff, but in the same "you lose the red straw" and people just hate you.
I've seen a Roberto post here and there, and it this was his originally, then I get your drift.
It wouldn't hurt to change the intake gaskets if you've never changed them. But no it's not necessary. They are not expensive whatsoever so it's very do-able.
To cut to the chase here's all the components you have to remove to pull the intake manifold.
It will sound like a lot. But it's not. I will even tell you what tools you'll need.
You'll only need a 2 flat head screw drivers (one with a large handle),
10mm and 13mm sockets (deep sockets or have a short extension) ,
10mm open/closed end wrench, and a rag.
You will remove:
Depressurize system large handled screwdriver in gas nozzle wait a few minutes afterward leave screwdriver in till done with job.
Remove the Vac hose at the intake manifold. Its toward the firewall under the intake manifold
intake plumbing (flat head screwdriver)
throttle body (10mm socket)
Fuel Rail vanity cover (10mm socket)
You can remove the valve cover vanity to make it easier to lift the fuel rail for the harness
box should lift with the fuel rail (I'll get to that) which will lift the coil wiring. (you'll see what I mean)
2 lower brackets that connect to the intake manifold one at the dipstick, one by the throttlecables (10mm socket)
Fuel Rail remove hose from front part of fuel rail, use rag to soak up remaining gas.
The fuel line runs under the tunnel. There is a clip it snaps into which is on the underside of the intake runners. You can pop the line off of it.
Two 10mm screws hold the fuel rail. Gently lift rail to release injectors and to give clearance for the intake manifold
Remove the IAT sensor connection It's right next to the vac line.
Unbolt the Intake manifold (10mm-13mm socket w/extension) I can't remember which but this isn't hard.
Lift manifold off block.
From there you'll see the ICV and you can remove and clean.
Reinstall is the reverse.
I've still got this low grade rough idle which sometimes trips the CEL, and I've changed the MAF, TPS, and tried cleaning the ICV. I've changed the O2 sensor, but used a Denso, figuring that would be just fine, since I've Denso components elsewhere (think AC compressor, when I upgraded the 1991 to 1994 R-134 standards.
The last time EVERYTHING on a car was easily accessible was on the 1959 Ford, whose front hood was hinged in the front. Or, as the recipient of a Medicare card, maybe I'm mistaken.
All thoughts are appreciated, and yes, if I can't fix this, I'll tear down the compartment to remove the manifold to try and find an elusive vacuum leak. It's gotta be something.
Best regards
C.
That's understandable. Which is why it may not be a bad idea to replace the seals anyway.
For at least you eliminate a few possible culprits of bad/rough idle.
When I bought my e34 with the s52 swap. I changed damn near every seal, hose and pulley.
I wanted to get the car to day one spec.
Mainly due to the fact I bought someone's project and wasn't clear and not trusting everything was done.
Now that I got the ICV out the way Immediately noticed the difference in idle.
Being you sound as if your roots are in the early muscle car era I will share something.
The interesting thing about the m5x/s5x is it's more intimidating than actually being difficult to work on.
Once you get past that. You'll soon realize it's no more difficult than a "shakey two" 62 Nova or chevy 6 in a 86 cavalier (yeah I said it... a Cavalier)
Now when you get to the later model engines ie m60 variants all the way to the N series engines. They can get more cramped and complicated due to more electronics and less space.
If you need more help just pm me. Alway willing to help another Vanco/Jersey person.
Come to think of it.... my father is in courtenany, my buddy Richie is in Victoria (but I think he's one the Island now),And IIRC my friend Ken is outside of Comox. So welcome to the Dual residency club.
BTW Roberto and Mamji have been found to be one in the same. However that's another story to be had.