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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Emergency radiator issue.... Please Help !!!

Came to a bad situation yesterday, my pulley that turns the fan cracked in half and broke the belt, which made the car overheat and somehow the nozzle piece that connects to the little hose to the expatiation tank is broken.....



the top half is pullable (ex: i can take it off from the top and look down inside the radiator and see the other broken half)

please tell me this is replaceable or fixable..... I do not have the kind of money to buy a new radiator :(

with a little work, would I be able to use some red prematex and some how stick the 2 broken half's back together without clogging up the tube hole ?

also this is the pulley I need part # 11511436590
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

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resident, old fart
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Permatex would be a "no". If anything, you want something like JB Weld, but I AM NOT SUGGESTING THIS! Permatex will simply waste your time drying and I don't think is cure. Much is written about broken nipple by BlueBee and others. I would just replace ALL broken pieces and not even attempt a temp. fix even to get you to the auto parts store.

The links you posted are both pertinent to your situation. You are on right path. Please also check tensioner pulleys and other devices turned by serpentine belt to verify none are seized which may have caused pulley to break in first place. See what may have caused the pulley to just break. Can be age, but don't assume so. Lots of older pulleys still in perfect condx.
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Permatex would be a "no". If anything, you want something like JB Weld, but I AM NOT SUGGESTING THIS! Permatex will simply waste your time drying and I don't think is cure. Much is written about broken nipple by BlueBee and others. I would just replace ALL broken pieces and not even attempt a temp. fix even to get you to the auto parts store.

The links you posted are both pertinent to your situation. You are on right path. Please also check tensioner pulleys and other devices turned by serpentine belt to verify none are seized which may have caused pulley to break in first place. See what may have caused the pulley to just break. Can be age, but don't assume so. Lots of older pulleys still in perfect condx.
well i didnt mention it because i was embarrassed but, i tried to replace my vanos unit, and fan + clutch but i couldn't remove the damn fan and i had the right wrench and tool but when I tried to break the nut through it wouldn't budge so i gave it a whack 1 good time and it kind of cracked the pulley but i didn't think this would happened because of it so yea im paying for it... :mad: I was hard headed and drove the car for a few miles to a important meeting I had to be at....
 

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Perhaps this is a stupid question, but you do know (I hope) that the fan mount is a reverse thread. In other words, you have to turn it clockwise to loosen the nut, not counter clockwise. It should be fairly easy to get the fan off.
 

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well i didnt mention it because i was embarrassed but, i tried to replace my vanos unit, and fan + clutch but i couldn't remove the damn fan and i had the right wrench and tool but when I tried to break the nut through it wouldn't budge so i gave it a whack 1 good time and it kind of cracked the pulley but i didn't think this would happened because of it so yea im paying for it... :mad: I was hard headed and drove the car for a few miles to a important meeting I had to be at....
You may already know this but the fan clutch nut is reverse thread. In other words, if you are standing at the front of the car looking toward the back you need to turn the nut clockwise to remove the fan clutch.
 

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+1 on the previous reply. You cannot successfully glue this stuff back together...they are wet and under pressure and will promptly fail again. Get new. For the pulley, you might want to get an aluminum one from www.autohausaz.com They offer an aftermarket aluminum one. The plastic ones are probably fine, and I have never had an issue (I replace all the pullies, tensioners and belts at the 100k miles), but on my recent cooling system overhaul, used the aluminum one, since it was the same cost as the plastic one. ;)

Since your plastic one failed, I would follow the advice previously posted to investigate if there is another cause other than just age and heat, why the pulley failed.
For the belt, Conti tech is the oem supplier.
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
hey guys I got the parts from dealer which came to $65 including the WP pully + bolts and 2 radiator nozzles.... selina is at the shop now and she's getting fixed with new fan and clutch and pully labor $200

also to clear everything up the pulley failed because I partially cracked it my self trying to take the nut off the fan and took it for a short drive like an idiot car was perfectly fine before this..
 

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resident, old fart
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Understand and fully see why pulley now failed. I will "echo" that fan clutch nut is reverse thread as has been said ad nauseum, but I disagree that it is usually easy to remove. Even when following that it is reverse threaded and with 32mm wrench and tool to hold back using two pulley bolts, it can take 3 hands to manage all this and ALSO deliver a single FIRM *whack* to loosen. Even with PB Blaster and all the correct tools, it may take a helper although I have had several come loose easily as well. It just depends..... good you are doing it the right way and you now know "what not to do"! Good man-up :thumbup:
 

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Ok, perhaps I should clarify my comment just a bit. Once the nut is loosened (by turning it clockwise), ithe fan simply spins off easily. But you are correct that the nut can be stubborn to break loose. I did it without special tools by wedging a long thin screwdriver into the water pump bolts to stabilize the shaft, then using a long open end wrench to break loose and turn the nut. It wasn't exactly easy to do that, but it wasn't exactly a knuckle buster either. But after breaking the nut loose, the fan spun off the shaft with no problem. My apologies if I made the entire procedure look like a walk in the park.
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
True or False:

Mechanic says that my alternator "pulley" (all of the sudden needs replacing because of the threads)... :-\

He says after installing everything (belt, fan, fan clutch, WP pulley) he took it for a test drive, and it drove perfectly, but on the way back to the shop, the battery light comes on (This NEVER happened to me ever). He takes off the alternator pulley and says I need a new alternator....

now is he bull****ing me ? my alternator was perfectly fine.... I mean yes of course its "probably" time to replace it since the car is old, but I never had an issue with charging etc...

He says the alternator is fine, but its the pulley.... I asked him well could I just replace the pulley its self, he says no I need to replace the whole alternator... is this TRUE or FALSE ?

Also, could it be the new belt i got him to install that its not tight enough to turn the pulley on the alternator ? does he need to adjust the tension on the pulleys or what?

everything was said over the phone so I dont have proof that this "battery light actually comes on now"

I'm going to inspect the car and finished job tomorrow, im not getting an alternator until I see for a fact that I actually need one, im really low on money and Ill have to pay him the remaining balance of the finished job...

and if the pulley is not replaceable why do they sell them separately - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...y-f4050337662bos/10807701-P?searchTerm=pulley
realoem - # 12311713945
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Got her out the shop yesterday things that were replaced was:

WP pulley
Fan & Fan clutch
A/C belt
Main Belt
Alternator

I went ahead and replaced my old Alveo alternator with a new Alveo alternator from autozone

test #9 now shows 14.0 - 14.1 volts VS 13.8v

couple concerns tho..

1.When accelerating I hear a loud whine in the engine bay and after it switches to like 2nd - 3rd gear it stops

2.when I turn on the AC only cold air blows on the driver side and the passenger side blows a little warm then the driver's side but it's not that hot.

I never had an issue before with my ac doing that is it because of the new belt?

also the whine noise I hear upon acceleration is that because the belt is brand new? or is it the fan clutch
 

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Got her out the shop yesterday things that were replaced was:

WP pulley
Fan & Fan clutch
A/C belt
Main Belt
Alternator

I went ahead and replaced my old Alveo alternator with a new Alveo alternator from autozone

test #9 now shows 14.0 - 14.1 volts VS 13.8v

couple concerns tho..

1.When accelerating I hear a loud whine in the engine bay and after it switches to like 2nd - 3rd gear it stops

2.when I turn on the AC only cold air blows on the driver side and the passenger side blows a little warm then the driver's side but it's not that hot.

I never had an issue before with my ac doing that is it because of the new belt?

also the whine noise I hear upon acceleration is that because the belt is brand new? or is it the fan clutch
Only cold air on driver side may be that the heater valve is not working or that refrigerant is leaking and you need the AC system recharged. A new belt whined on me because it was not OEM.

Get the three digit codes read using INPA, Pasoft, etc to see what may have failed but does not give a check engine light. My AC was not working, but Pasoft 1.4 showed me (code 125) that my electric fan was failing to start. I Installed new aux cooling fan sensor- electric fan came on ac worked again.
 
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