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Discussion Starter #1
2006 e60, 145k. I put a new ca battery in the car about a year ago but it was having increasing trouble over the last few weeks. Finally it refused to start the car. I tried charging it but the voltage never got above 12.0, and so i took it back to advance auto who gave me a new one, an Autocraft Gold, size H9, 950 cranking amps. I brought it home and charged it on the smart charger, and the engine still won't turn over. I tried adding jumper cables from my 4runner and still nothing. The electronics come on. The brake pedal does not depress very far. Carly gives me 4 codes, transmission 0054c6 (i changed the transfer case fluid but haven't figured out how to reset the code), ac motor control 009c54, instrument cluster 00a468, and a brake code cause one of the sensors is busted (on order from bmw). The instrument code says there is a break in an external cable, with no ldvs signal, and in energy saving mode, but the computer still seems to work. Suggestions???
 

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9C54 is the AUC sensor...that's the thingy attached to the fresh air box under the hood on the passenger side. It works with the auto recirculate for the climate control. This isn't preventing the car from turning over.
54C6 is the transfer oil wear as you found out...get yourself a copy of Reingold ISTA and you will find it in there somewhere. I used that on wife's X5 and found it with some digging. This isn't preventing the car from turning over.
A468 is a code complaining about the communicating to/from the CCC relating to a LVDS cable. LVDS stands for "low voltage differential signaling". It's just a fancier cable with signals. The differential part makes it less susceptible to electrical noise. This may be a bad component in a module or maybe a cable is loose or frayed and broken. I doubt this is preventing the car from starting.

I would check for voltage at the starter when you try to start the car.

I replaced both the staters in my 2006 530xi and 2009 X5. They both got weak. Especially showed in cold weather. Even new battery didn't matter. Most likely is was the solenoids in my starters, but it isn't worth fixing only that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Were you able to pull the intake manifold completely off? One youtube guy did. Im thinking you are right about the starter.

I tried pulling what i think is the ibs sensor off the negative terminal. That didn't help. Im getting some arcing of the negative terminal when i connect it. Im not used to seeing that.
 

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Thanks. Were you able to pull the intake manifold completely off? One youtube guy did. Im thinking you are right about the starter.

I tried pulling what i think is the ibs sensor off the negative terminal. That didn't help. Im getting some arcing of the negative terminal when i connect it. Im not used to seeing that.
To replace the starter, you really need to get the intake completely out of the car. It is a major pain in the butt. Not so much getting it off, but getting all the hoses and electrical harness clamps and car that is attached to the intake manifold off in order to actually pull it out. You must be especially careful of the emissions hoses which are that brittle plastic. Be gentle and patient. The squeeze clamps will eventually unlock -- some I fiddled with for minutes and minutes before they just all-of-a-sudden unlocked.

While you are there, if you haven't done the oil filter housing gasket, take the time to do that one and the oil cooler gasket. It will be easier now.

And, check the DISA valves for a wonky or missing flap. Mine were ok.
 

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Start by measuring voltage drops in the starter systems wiring.

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i wound not waste my time in that


Not b4 troubling shooting a IGN1 problem
 

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Voltage drop test is sort of bypassing a diagnosis of the IGN1 circuit strictly speaking, but it will highlight where the problem lies when you find no volts!!

Look up, diagnosing voltage drops in BMW starter circuit on YouTube for help. If this is unfamiliar territory, tow the car to the shop.

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Voltage drop test is sort of bypassing a diagnosis of the IGN1 circuit strictly speaking, but it will highlight where the problem lies when you find no volts!!

Look up, diagnosing voltage drops in BMW starter circuit on YouTube for help. If this is unfamiliar territory, tow the car to the shop.

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Excellent advice. If the starter has battery voltage, most likely the starter is worn out. It can be tedious to check for voltage drop, but you can pinpoint where the circuit has failed with a high degree of accuracy.

Good lcuk
Fred
 

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Voltage drop test is sort of bypassing a diagnosis of the IGN1 circuit strictly speaking, but it will highlight where the problem lies when you find no volts!!

Look up, diagnosing voltage drops in BMW starter circuit on YouTube for help. If this is unfamiliar territory, tow the car to the shop.

Sent from my LG-H915 using Tapatalk

I'm with Cameron, in my opinion it would just be unnecessary to measure a voltage drop (First). I would start by unplug the signal wire to the starter and put a test light to the signal wire, have someone try and start the car and if the test light illuminates then you need a starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, i put a test light on the solenoid terminal and get a light when the key is turned but nothing from the starter. Probably need a new starter. However, i am noticing that there is a voltage drop on the battery when i connect it to the car. Fully chargeable off the car (it's a new battery) and barely 12 volts on the car and the load test drops to weak. Thoughts? Maybe a short in the starter which is why our doesn't work?
 

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Do you have voltage at the starter motor terminal too? I would assume you do.
Mildly possible the ground strap is gone enough to also prevent the circuit from being completed.

More than likely...you are getting voltage to the solenoid when you try and start the car and the motor isn't doing anything ==> new starter.
 

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Voltage drop test is sort of bypassing a diagnosis of the IGN1 circuit strictly speaking, but it will highlight where the problem lies when you find no volts!!

Look up, diagnosing voltage drops in BMW starter circuit on YouTube for help. If this is unfamiliar territory, tow the car to the shop.

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I think you are confused as to what a voltage drop test actually is and how to perform it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would agree I probably need a new starter. I wish I knew why the voltage was dropping on the battery when I connect it to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I take my new, fully charged battery, which I charged before I connected it to the car, hook up the terminals, and the voltage drops from 13 volts (some of this is surface charge, I know), to close to 12 volts, not the 12.6 it should be. I continue to charge the battery with the CTEK Smart Charger and the voltage never goes above 12 volts.
 

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I wouldn't worry about that, it's just the modules drawing power from the battery. Battery voltage will drop to around 9 or 10 volts I believe when the starter engages. Your biggest concern is how many cranking amps the battery has.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I wouldn't worry about that, it's just the modules drawing power from the battery. Battery voltage will drop to around 9 or 10 volts I believe when the starter engages. Your biggest concern is how many cranking amps the battery has.
It's rated at 950 and had over 1000 at the store.
 

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Then you battery is perfectly okay, throw a starter on and see what happens. Judging by your previously described symptoms and if you're getting a signal at the starter solenoid and you have battery voltage to the supply wire on the starter then a starter should fix it.
 
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