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Discussion Starter #1
The dealer here in Columbus GA told me recently that my injectors may start going here soon, so I should cycle some fuel system cleaner in... I did 2 weeks ago, (I am changing oil in 3 days) and last week I got the dreaded "Engine Malfunction-Reduced Power" Message on my screen.

So I pulled over turned the engine off, then immediately started it and no message, car drove fine again... 3 days later message came up twice in one day, and yesterday it came up again. I turned the car off every time turn it on and it runs fine again. Turbos seems to be boosting/spooling fine engine sounds/smells good.

What are the possibilities here, given what I have told you guys, is there more questions you have to ask to help me diagnose. Could it be that I need to just change the fuel filter?


Any help will DO!!! I want to DIY is there any diagnostic tools that could help me with clearing and figuring this issue out. Thanks!!
 

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My early injector problems only happened under heavy acceleration. Get the Carly Bluetooth Reader gen II for BMW and download he app. It will give you all the info you need and you can code your car. Injectors can be DIY'd but then the ECU needs to programmed to the new injector for firing purposes. Look elsewhere before injectors if no problems up to now. Walnut blast is probably in order by now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So far the engine malfunction has come on only on light load conditions. 4-5 min after starting. Will the Carly read engine malfunction codes? and do you happen to have a link to the hardware I need?
 

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Yes it will. Reads all BMW codes and shadow codes. Search Amazon for Original Carly for BMW Bluetooth Gen 2 OBD Adapter. $59.90. Then download Carly for BMW app.
 

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Well, First off don't take it to the dealership for this as they will try to take Atleast 1k from you for the job. 350-600 max should be right. Basically they walnut blast the valves n remove carbon from your engine. The car will literally feel brand new afterwards. I know from personal experience. You will notice a big diffirence in the overall feel of the car. n misfires will be a thing of the past as long as your plugs, coils & injectors are A-Ok. Did I mention how smooth Idle gets?! Best Wishes!
 

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I literally just had the same issue on my car after going down to bimmerfest. My car basically went in limp mode and lost its performance during heavy acceleration. I was going to try cleaning the solenoids but ended up buying two third party ones for $50 and that solved my engine malfunction light. So I would check those out if you can cause its a fairly easy DIY and mine hadn't been changed out and the car is over 80k miles


Sent with my carrier pigeon
 

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Cant wait to get my Carly! You say you bought the solenoids third party?
Yes I'm from the bay area in Cali and there is a local seller who sells the part on eBay. If you PM me I can send you the link but its listed as $26/ piece and they work just as well as OEM plus come with warranty. If you do an eBay search it should pop up, the seller is in Sunnyvale. Hope that helps! Plus there is a DIY guide here on the forum as well as YouTube videos, it takes about 25min to replace both.

Sent with my carrier pigeon
 

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Breaking in the Pony
2019 Mustang GT / 2005 Toyota Tacoma
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Looking at this, I'm not sure that people have caught that the OP has a diesel, not an N54/N55.

The carbon issues on the 335D are significantly different than those on the gas engine cars. While the intake valve walnut blast is strongly recommended for the gas engines every 50k or so, there's a whole 'nother situation on the diesels. There have been tools developed to walnut blast the diesel instead of the prior "pull the head apart" technique, but pricing and DIY are not the same as the ones you find for the N54.
 

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Pedant and Curmudgeon
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The Bavarian Technic reader also does a good job on the diesels. Think people like the Torque app, too.

If the codes point to injector problems, do a CBU clean (as Zooks note) before replacing injectors - they're around $500 each and you don't want to do that unless you really need them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #16
OK!... GOT the codes from Carly app...
004c7b: Engine/Motor Reducing agent valve interruption
004c7c: Engine/Motor Reducing agent valve interruption
004592: Engine/Motor Smoothness regulator cylinder 4 injector correction amount by adjusting the range
004c04 Engine/Motor Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor before catalytic measured to high contrast to the simulated Exhaust gas temperature before catalytic converter
004868: Engine/Motor Measured air mass compared to the calculated air mass to low
004593: Engine/Motor Smoothness regulator cylinder 2 injector correction amount by adjusting the range.
004ae6: Engine/Motor set adjustment cylinder 2 injector
004b05: Engine/Motor set adjustment cylinder 4 injector
004c09: Engine/Motor Exhaust Gas Temperature sensor before Particle filter plausibility difference calculates Exhaust gas temperature measured too high
004ce7: Engine/Motor Misfire detection cylinder 2 number of detected failures too high
004b81: Engine/Motor Exhaust gas re-circulation rate control, deviation exhaust gas re-circulation rate control error while Kat heating

What you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
And what is

009cce Fussraummodul/frm: Charge for extra battery deep discharge error in seperating elemen/harness or secondary battery
 

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Breaking in the Pony
2019 Mustang GT / 2005 Toyota Tacoma
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OK!... GOT the codes from Carly app...
...
What you guys think?
Stupid as it sounds, first thing that came to mind for me is your battery is going south. Just seems like too big a list all at once.

Now, odds on it's not (the typical failed battery error cascade involves ABS/DSC/etc.), and I'm just some random guy on the net, so that and a buck leaves you short of money for coffee.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I cleared the codes and re-ran diagnostic and got these codes...
004c7b: Engine/Motor Reducing agent valve interruption
004c7c: Engine/Motor Reducing agent valve interruption

Injector bout to bite bullet?
 
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