[Mr.Bimmer530i]

So I tried getting feedback from a similar post with no luck so im starting my own to help get some help in my specific case. I've been having cooling system issues( leaking coolant temp sensor) its was leaking from o ring but recently stopped nd so did the crazy thermostat movement. But im about to do a cooling system overhaul anyways. I also have leaking vcg and vanos that are getting repaired at the same time(have been checking & topping off oil).

The car has been running fine up until lately the flickering red oil light and then at stops the dreaded *Stop! Engine oil pressure warning *.. I check oil level as it says when I turn off car but there's plenty and thermostat stays in the middle so no sign of overheating. So I took it home nd didn't drive the rest of that day. The next morning for work I start up car and no flickering or stop engine nonsense. So I drive to work. On my way everything running fine, that is until car warmed up enough to bring back the flickering oil light & then when it comes to a complete stop or rpms reach 1 the STOP engine oil pressure warning comes on.. If I continue to drive I get this burning oil rubberish smell coming threw the vents I think. I never drive to much after that cause I feel the difference. Like a big loss in power mostly in 2nd, 3rd nd 4th gear.. From what I read on similar issues on here it could be a couple things but since Ive got such a detailed diagnoses I wanna give you guys some pics nd my thoughts.

Im thinking Ccv failure since there's all this new oil residue all over the hoses ns wires behind nd under my upper intake boot.(1st. 2nd 3rd picture). My other thought I got from another person on here which sounds closest to my issue is radiator Thermostat which would probably explain the sudden stop in coolant leak nd gauge going crazy all of a sudden. Plus I just noticed today the bleed screw on the upper hose has coolant on it evidence of it leaking?. (Pic 4) im gonna order a oil pressure sensor nd oil filter housing cap since im replacing the gasket on it anyways.

I just really want someones feedback (preferably a forum God such as blubee or fudman) lol. But seriously anyones two cents would be GREATLY appreciated! I just love ny car nd don't got cash ti be blowing out engines.. Thanks in Advance!

 

[poolman]

I'm going through the same thing right now with the flickering light and bells and whistles and such. On the smell your getting, that from you valve cover gasket being bad and leaking as you stated. The CCV valve should be replaced with the new hoses and all and withe the valve cover gasket, that will stop a few of the vacuum leaks that I suppose you have. The vacuum leak fix along with the
new Vanos seals will make you think your driving a different car. I would wait to address the flickering oil light after you have all the other fixes made. I have researched this to a great extent over the last week or two. Seems that this is indeed a problem with alot of our I6 engines, From what I have read there are four ways to make the fix. One, switch to a 20w50 oil for summer use--I use 10w30 on my car for 235k miles--don't think I'll go that route yet. 2nd, replace the O ring on the oil pickup tube in the pan--thats gonna make one hell of a repair--too old to climb down around there for a few days. 3rd,replace the oil filter houseing--there's a regulator in the housing that can't be replaced that can be the problem. 4th, here's what I'm gonna try --the oil light doesn't flicker on my car when the AC is off--I tried driving in high heat with the windows down and lugged around for 30 min or so and no sign of the light flickering. If I turn the AC on and drive around a short time the light comes on at idle and starts it's christmas light flickering deal. I have read that the Stealership can do a scan that can add idle RPM when the AC is on--I'm gonna try and have about 75 more RPM set into the car when at idle by the dealership and see what outcome that might have--I'll try to do that early this week and report back--

 

[edjack]

You both should actually measure the oil pressure to help diagnose the problem. Get the kit at Harbor Freight Tools.

The oil pressure switch closes at 7-8 psi (0.5 bar).

 

[Mr.Bimmer530i]

Yikes! Wasnt surprised you were on of the first to reply. Dont know how I missed your name in mentioning my short list of Gods Poolman. But yeah Im gonna do what you said nd just get vcg,ccv(+all 4 hoses) vanos seals, cooling system, ofh gasket & cap done as I originally was going to this week. But ill definitely be waiting on your report back! As soon as I get my work done and maybe two cents from my mechanic doing job ill also report back. This is something I really want to see come to a complete end! >_<

Thanks for the input Poolman! So Very appreciated!
Quick question, Do you still drive your car around as is?

 

[poolman]

Thanks for the kind words and all--On the question do I still drive the car. Yes it is my daily driver and I'm watching this very closely and concerned about whats happening.
The light flickers as stated but doesn't start until I have sat in a drive through for queit a few min's or so and then it will start up and only when the AC is on--I give the car a little more throttle and then drive on. I just checked after posting above and drove around for about 20 mins or so lugging slowly up steep hills that we have here and letting the engine get as warm as I could in 95 degree heat--windows down and no AC on. I couldn't make the light flicker once--even when blipping the throttle a few times--I couldn't make it flicker once. WHile setting in my drive way for a while watching for thge light I turned on the AC after awhile and waited to see if the light would come on--I noticed my RPM while doing this and at first the RPM seamed to blip up and then it went down to about 100 RPM less than when the engine was at idle without the AC on--don't know if this is supposed to be this way, or if my AC pump is putting that much load on the engine. I would think that the idle speed would go up just a little when turning it on, but it didn't it went down instead.

 

[Mr.Bimmer530i]

But Ofcourse. You've been very helpful on this forum as i've seen in many others post.(;

But yes that is odd. Because my flickering only starts after say 10-15 minutes of driving or 5-10 minute at freeway speed. Then soon after a couple stops with the flickering the Stop engine oil pressure warning comes on. If I turn On the A/c the Stop engine warning stops but flickering continues. But if I leave ac on long enough it comes back after say 10 minutes. I asked if you're still driving because I also use it as my daily right now since my other car is getting painted.

I've been reading up on stuff all day and blubee's post about blown head gaskets nd replacing engines because of overheating has me not even wanting to drive her back home after work..:slyonly 9 miles) So yeah Idk.. im definitely biking to work tomorrow nd taking her into the shop right after work nd start this wallet rape.. Keep me updated as I will you.

 

[poolman]

Edjack--thanks for the input on what is going on here--I'm going to check my pressure of course and will report back on that as well--what has me concerned right now though, is that the RPM isn't raising when the AC is cut on. I thought turning on the AC would raise RPM--but that's not happening. The light doesn't come on when driving without the AC functioning---

 

[Mr.Bimmer530i]

That's is confusing because my rpms do raise when Ac is cut on, But does not eliminate flickering I get without it on aswell.. So confusing nd scary to drive.. also would a vacuum leak cause the car to shake a bit upon acceleration? But only un first nd second gear?

 

[mrpumpk1n]

Hey sorry i didnt get to respond till now, i posted in my other thread but here is what i basically said: So ive done pretty much everything mentioned here, checked the oil pump bolts, they were fine, checked pressure, was a tad bit low at idle after the car has run for 30 mins or so. Final findings were, my car had a TON of vacuum leaks and what not, so got those fixed to fix my rpm dipping and also upgraded to 20w50 (car loves it so far), and changed the oil filter cap as well. ALL those changes fixed the problem and the car now drives fine. Also remember my car has a lot of miles on it, 186k now and it hasnt been taken care of very well by the previous owner, for my car, the issue is most probably wear in the main bearings and will need an overhaul down the line (hopefully will last a year before), and im just delaying full failure.

PS. follow what CN90, Edjack, and Franka have been saying on the forum, their advice pretty much kept my car running till now. ALSO, using the AC to hide the pressure light does NOT mean the car has enough oil pressure, it might just be above the threshhold to not trigger the light (5psi was it?).

 

[poolman]

Vacuum leaks can cause this problem at idle--fix the other problems first and then see if your still having the light flickering. From my readings there should be an increase in RPM when the AC is cut on--but for some reason that is not the case with mine --it stays the same---as for 5 lbs pressure starting the light to flicker--I never have it flicker when the AC is kept off--even in high heat-- If I cut the AC on then after slow driving in high heat will it flicker and only then when it's at idle--If I raise the RPM of my idle about 50 or so the light stays off--My indy that I see when there's something I can't handle told me this mourning that he can raise the idle for me with his machine--That's what I'm going to try and be done with it. The car now has 240k miles on the engine and runs great except for this light--If the dang thing goes by by, I've been thinking how much fun it would be to have a 530 engine in my touring wagon

 

[mrpumpk1n]

is your rpm reading accurate? check the actual rpm using your obc test, may be with the ac not increasing your rpm, once the clutch fan engages, may be your rpm is dipping too low triggering this issue?