BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New E38 Member, Need Help PLease...

Hello, so i recently bought a 98 740il with 240,xxx miles on it and have had the same problem with it since i bought it.

So first of all it started and ran but idled really rough like it would shake alot when it was on. the guy i bought it from said it needed a new computer (engine module) he also said it could have been the coils and spark plugs, so i figured it was gonna need a little more work and extra parts... long story short i bought another one a year older that idled fine with transmission problems and in worse condition for parts. i bought new plugs, switched the coils from the one that idled fine and had the same problem but now it would stay on when idling rough. i noticed it had no MAF and hose to the air filer box so installed that from the other car too and still nothing while it was running last week i was giving it gas from under the hood and it sounded fine when idling when all of a sudden it bogged out and turned off. i haven't been able to get it started since and have taken out the plugs and ran it thinking i flooded it but still nothing since then i bought an new engine module for it and switched out the crank and cam sensors from the one that idled fine. if anyone could give me some advice on what is causing it to not start now and idle right id really appreciate it this is my first time owning and working on a bmw im used to classic american cars thank you for your time.
:dunno::tsk::confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Hello, so i recently bought a 98 740il with 240,xxx miles on it and have had the same problem with it since i bought it.

So first of all it started and ran but idled really rough like it would shake alot when it was on. the guy i bought it from said it needed a new computer (engine module) he also said it could have been the coils and spark plugs, so i figured it was gonna need a little more work and extra parts... long story short i bought another one a year older that idled fine with transmission problems and in worse condition for parts. i bought new plugs, switched the coils from the one that idled fine and had the same problem but now it would stay on when idling rough. i noticed it had no MAF and hose to the air filer box so installed that from the other car too and still nothing while it was running last week i was giving it gas from under the hood and it sounded fine when idling when all of a sudden it bogged out and turned off. i haven't been able to get it started since and have taken out the plugs and ran it thinking i flooded it but still nothing since then i bought an new engine module for it and switched out the crank and cam sensors from the one that idled fine. if anyone could give me some advice on what is causing it to not start now and idle right id really appreciate it this is my first time owning and working on a bmw im used to classic american cars thank you for your time.:dunno::tsk::confused:
 

·
Certifiable BMW Whackjob!
Joined
·
5,994 Posts
It's a 1998 with engine trouble...we can give you a whole bunch of guesses and you can spend $$$$ throwing parts at it or - scan it and post the codes! If you don't have a an OBD-II reader than take it to Auto-Zone or another large auto parts store, in most states they will read the codes for free. And yes, even if the CEL isn't on there may still be codes.

Welcome to the 'fest and good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Months later.. I still have the car
still haven't gotten it running, things actually got a little worse. Really liking the new bimmerfest app.

So continuing with said problems, I ended up finally getting the car towed home from where I purchased it and had been working on it. While getting it up on the trailer I accidently left the key on its whole ride home. When we unloaded it I had my brother helping me try to figure out what was making the car not start when the key just turned over with no crank. The battery in it is brand new that I bought just for the car, we recharged it and still no crank. We checked to see if the starter was out by putting power to the relay and the starter kicked in with no engine start, we wired the fuel pump up and it started humming but no start with the started wired up as well so we figured the injectors weren't working. After doing a little research I found that it was all signs of a ews loosing connection with the chip in the key where it disables the fuel pump, starter, and injectors. Looking everywhere for answers I found a place in Florida called "specialized ECU repair" that installed ews deletes. I sent them the key, dme, and ews 2. When it arrived they tested it and said it tested good as a working ecu with no problems, I was curtin it was the problem so had the EWS delete installed anyway. When it returned I installed it and and the jump wire they sent me, gave it a try and still no crank... I recently joined e38 empire on facebook and had some help getting pa soft on my laptop to scan and check it's codes. Every time I start it up is says error connecting to ews, now I'm not sure if it's because I have a EWS delete installed but other than that I can't think of what it could be causing it to not crank. I changed out all fuses and will be going through all the wireing soon. Any ideas or comments are welcome. BTW I swapped fuel pumps with my 2 cars and the one that was running with transmission problems won't start with the others fuel pump so I'm guessing that might have been the rough idle/no start before no crank issue... thanks for hearing me out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Bimmerfest mobile app
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top