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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I got the engine malfunction light and when I read the error codes I can see P0101 and P0112, looks like the MAF. I also see a glow plug error on glow plug 6 and when I read the engine coolant temp after a longer drive I see on 75 Degree Celsius. I think the thermostat needs to be changed since I read the temperature should be more around 88 Degree Celsius, is this correct? Is it necessary to also change the glow plug in that case? And can the P0101 and P0112 have anything to do with the faulty glow plug or should I look for something else, can I clean the MAF? The intake temperature shows -40 Fahrenheit in my OBD Reader, seems to be way off, or?
Car is a 2012 X5 Diesel with around 100tsd Miles.
- Juergen
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought there is an extended warranty for the HFM (MAF) on certain E70 35d?
Where can I find out if my car is in the rage for the extended warranty, do I have to check with my dealer or do they have a list of affected cars published somewhere?
 

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I just changed air filters and a few other things (service was due) and then I cleared all error codes. As soon as I start the engine I get 0101 and 0112 back. Is BMW simply replacing the MAF when they do the extended warranty repair? That seems to be very easy in case my car is not covered and the MAF is also not too expensive.
 

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you need to check with the dealer based on the VIN. You need to use the propery terminology: your car doesnt have an 'extended warranty'...rather the question is "I want to know if there is an SIB that extends the part warranty on the MAF on my car, here is the vin'
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you need to check with the dealer based on the VIN. You need to use the propery terminology: your car doesnt have an 'extended warranty'...rather the question is "I want to know if there is an SIB that extends the part warranty on the MAF on my car, here is the vin'
Ok, thanks for the info, will check with them Monday/Tuesday and will report back.
 

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There is recall on MAF, and mine was changed like month ago. So go to nearest BMW and check.
Thermostat is failing. To be sure use manual shifter to slow down vehicle, if temp. rapidly drops, yes, your thermostat is open constantly.
Can you get your temperature at all above 80c? For example I know I have failing thermostat, but on HWY my temp is still close to 88c, so I am delaying replacement although I have thermostat ready in my garage.
When you slow down using manual shifting, if temperature drops below 70, it is time to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is recall on MAF, and mine was changed like month ago. So go to nearest BMW and check.
Thermostat is failing. To be sure use manual shifter to slow down vehicle, if temp. rapidly drops, yes, your thermostat is open constantly.
Can you get your temperature at all above 80c? For example I know I have failing thermostat, but on HWY my temp is still close to 88c, so I am delaying replacement although I have thermostat ready in my garage.
When you slow down using manual shifting, if temperature drops below 70, it is time to replace it.
Will try it out with the manual shifting. Drove the car today for 45 minutes, HWY and then some stop and go and temperature was 167 Fahrenheit when at home, driving up a pretty steep hill to my house, so the engine was supposed to be fully warm I assume.
 

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Not disagreeing . . . just curious . . . how is downshifting and thermostat condition connected?

Sounds like an easy test . . . just wanted to know the logic behind this behavior . . .

Thanks.

. . . To be sure use manual shifter to slow down vehicle, if temp. rapidly drops, yes, your thermostat is open constantly. Can you get your temperature at all above 80c? . . . . When you slow down using manual shifting, if temperature drops below 70, it is time to replace it.
 

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Not disagreeing . . . just curious . . . how is downshifting and thermostat condition connected?

Sounds like an easy test . . . just wanted to know the logic behind this behavior . . .

Thanks.
Downshifting will increase rpm=water pump rpm will increase but without additional fuel to burn with high rpms. High rpms will send more cool coolant from radiator to engine. Since there is no additional fuel burn coolant now is cooling engine rapidly. Once lower then 88c temp. of coolant reaches thermostat, thermostat should close. However, if thermostat is open, coolant will continue to cycle through system, cooling itself even more, hence, lowering overall temp. of coolant. Keep in mind, rapid drop is happening bcs. of high rpms, no additional fuel burn and open thermostat.
Very easy test that is most obvious on stick shifts with failing (open) thermostat. That is why I said to use downshift since you mimic manual. Though drop in temperature in manuals is even faster due to the fact that in manuals ECU cuts off fuel supply 100%, while in automatics it keeps it at idling level.
Now, this is possible in 35d since 35d has old fashioned water pump. Not sure whether it would work in 35i and 5.0i with electric water pumps.
 

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Will try it out with the manual shifting. Drove the car today for 45 minutes, HWY and then some stop and go and temperature was 167 Fahrenheit when at home, driving up a pretty steep hill to my house, so the engine was supposed to be fully warm I assume.
If it does not go above 75c when uphill, yes, your thermostat is done.
 

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Hello,
I got the engine malfunction light and when I read the error codes I can see P0101 and P0112, looks like the MAF. I also see a glow plug error on glow plug 6 and when I read the engine coolant temp after a longer drive I see on 75 Degree Celsius. I think the thermostat needs to be changed since I read the temperature should be more around 88 Degree Celsius, is this correct? Is it necessary to also change the glow plug in that case? And can the P0101 and P0112 have anything to do with the faulty glow plug or should I look for something else, can I clean the MAF? The intake temperature shows -40 Fahrenheit in my OBD Reader, seems to be way off, or?
Car is a 2012 X5 Diesel with around 100tsd Miles.
- Juergen
This is how it all started for me with CEL and I had to change the following to fix frequent CEL lights.

- Cylinder 6 Glow plug. Changed all 6 even though only one was bad.
- NOx sensors.
- Catalytic Convertor.
- Thermostat.
The dealer need to re-program the system if Cat is changed so that the system recognizes it. New Cat will unknown to DDE as it slightly different from OEM.
 

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Thanks a lot! I completely overlooked the revving engine also revs up the water pump . . . I knew I was overlooking something very obvious!

Just to get a feel for the temp. drop . . . fully open stuck, a drop of 10°C?

I take it, a perfectly functioning thermostat would not show any drop at all?

Around 81,000 miles, as part of routine maintenance, I replaced the water pump, coolant thermostat and the transmission thermostat. Post replacement, coolant temp was a VERY steady 87/88 °C . . . I was actually quite surprised at how steady it held this temperature. The coolant also warmed up very quickly - got to 87/88 °C in under 5 miles of driving city streets.

Now (@107,000 miles) it gets to 82/83 °C quite fast and then creeps up very slowly . . . if I get on the highway it gets to 87/88 °C right away and holds that temperature quite well.

My guess - the thermostat is not closing all the way shut and is letting some coolant through when it is supposed to be fully closed. Not too worried about this right now as it is still holding coolant temperature above 80 °C.

I will be doing a coolant flush early next year . . . any tricks to energize/de-energize the thermostat a few times to get it to close fully . . . OR is thermostat replacement my only option?

Thanks again!

Downshifting will increase rpm=water pump rpm will increase but without additional fuel to burn with high rpms. . . . Once lower then 88c temp. of coolant reaches thermostat, thermostat should close. . . . Very easy test that is most obvious on stick shifts with failing (open) thermostat. . . . Now, this is possible in 35d since 35d has old fashioned water pump. . . .
 

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Thanks a lot! I completely overlooked the revving engine also revs up the water pump . . . I knew I was overlooking something very obvious!

Just to get a feel for the temp. drop . . . fully open stuck, a drop of 10°C?

I take it, a perfectly functioning thermostat would not show any drop at all?

Around 81,000 miles, as part of routine maintenance, I replaced the water pump, coolant thermostat and the transmission thermostat. Post replacement, coolant temp was a VERY steady 87/88 °C . . . I was actually quite surprised at how steady it held this temperature. The coolant also warmed up very quickly - got to 87/88 °C in under 5 miles of driving city streets.

Now (@107,000 miles) it gets to 82/83 °C quite fast and then creeps up very slowly . . . if I get on the highway it gets to 87/88 °C right away and holds that temperature quite well.

My guess - the thermostat is not closing all the way shut and is letting some coolant through when it is supposed to be fully closed. Not too worried about this right now as it is still holding coolant temperature above 80 °C.

I will be doing a coolant flush early next year . . . any tricks to energize/de-energize the thermostat a few times to get it to close fully . . . OR is thermostat replacement my only option?

Thanks again!
It is replacement only option. There is no any way around it.
Also, even if thermostat is closing fully, you will see some drop in temperature when manual breaking. Reason is that every thermostat has pressure release pipe. System still needs to circulate.
As for temperature, as long as temperature is on HWY in 80's you are fine. More importantly is oil temperature for healthy engine. I am fallowing oil temp. on Carly, and thermostat is not influencing it. BMW's reach operating coolant temp. really fast. But that does not mean oil is warming up in same way. Actually due to large sump, diesels need some time to warm up oil.
 

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Thanks . . . I will check and see if my BlueDriver OBD2 reader can monitor engine oil temp . . . will report back if it does . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is how it all started for me with CEL and I had to change the following to fix frequent CEL lights.

- Cylinder 6 Glow plug. Changed all 6 even though only one was bad.
- NOx sensors.
- Catalytic Convertor.
- Thermostat.
The dealer need to re-program the system if Cat is changed so that the system recognizes it. New Cat will unknown to DDE as it slightly different from OEM.
Did you get any other CEL besides the 0101 and 0112? I already ordered a thermostat and one glow plug, is it necessary to change all 6?
 

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Did you get any other CEL besides the 0101 and 0112? I already ordered a thermostat and one glow plug, is it necessary to change all 6?
I believe it IS necessary to change the Glow Plug Controller... should be an SIB or post on this somewhere...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I believe it IS necessary to change the Glow Plug Controller... should be an SIB or post on this somewhere...
So I have to change the glow plug controller for all 6 glow plugs or only for the one I got the CEL from (glow plug 6)?
 

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So I have to change the glow plug controller for all 6 glow plugs or only for the one I got the CEL from (glow plug 6)?
Labor on changing one glow plug is pretty expensive. Reading from other threads I realized it's better to change all 6 at the same time.
Like ARD said..its better to change the GP control module along with the glow plugs.
 
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