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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone installed the Eton B100N and/or B150USB speakers? How does it sound? Did it fit correctly and do you have any install pictures/hints? I just came across them and their website is etongmbh dot de (then click on English and they have product pictures, specs, etc there). They seem to be a respectable and good/great quality brand. Prices are reasonable but they have to be imported from Europe. Anybody wants to be first and show us it fits? :) Or please look at the pictures, especially the B150USB sub, to see if it will fit/work and also connect correctly to the factory harness. (I have the base model factory radio.)

(Some Focal IFBMW-S or IFBMW-C would be nice too but unfortunately they are drop-in replacements for other bimmer models. The Focal 100KRS may work but it's not quite a drop-in replacement.)

Are they any other speaker brands/models that are drop-in replacements? (other than BSW)

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I took a chance and ordered/imported 2 pairs of Eton B100N speakers. It took like 2 weeks to arrive here. From Germany to San Francisco it was fast by DHL Air, and they handed it off to USPS for processing and local delivery service. While in the SF area, it took the customs a little over a week to process/inspect and to release it. There was no import duty/tax though. Then it took another 2 days to get here by USPS service.

The speaker material/construction is very nice. The magnet is slightly larger than the factory ones. This probably explains why the new speakers are a little more efficient. The upper midrange and treble response is much better and more efficient than before because of the tweeters. The highs are now apparent... i now have sparkling treble (supposed to be like this with the right music!)

From about 4 kHz upwards the tweeters kick in. It goes up to 15 kHz (the limit on my hearing, maybe more if you have younger/better ears)... all that with the treble/bass setting at flat/zero. (14 kHz strong, 15k Hz weak). Now there is an openness/spaciousness in the music and it sounds smooth too - very happy with it. The frequencies were checked using my old IASCA test tracks. The 7 snare-shots test track from left to right is great too - the soundstage is high enough, forward, and appropriately located.

Other random notes...

The inline crossover they provided looks/works fine. There’s more components/stuff in this crossover than just a plain capacitor.

The tweeter fits in the factory spot on the door pillar/frame perfectly.

The midrange speaker is about 6 mm thicker than the factory one and fits in there just fine too.

The electrical connectors on the speakers/crossovers are the BMW-type. They made it this way to be a factory drop-in/replacement.

The midrange's basket is the PC polycarbonate type... looks strong from the ribs/design. Looks like rubber surround on the cones. The tweeters look like the silk dome type.

Installation was easy enough. There are plenty of guides on the internet. The first door panel (front passenger side) took the longest to remove (a newbie here… have not done door panels in many years). The second door panel (rear right door) was faster to remove (an amateur now). On the 3rd door (a professional installer now), I sure wasn't going to unhook all the cables to the switch/lights/lock just to get the door panel away from the vehicle! I put 2 tall boxes under the door. After the panel comes off the door, it stands/rests on these tall boxes and I just swapped the speaker right there and popped the panel back in lol:) But I decided to get OCD and detailed/cleaned these doors/jambs while at it!

(I'll probably be ordering the 2 matching subs soon.)

Here are some random pictures of the parts taken with my cell phone-camera...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I finally finished the subwoofer box a few days ago. For a moment I was thinking of a pair of Eton subs under the front seats but after thinking more***8230;. figured it***8217;ll only work better if it***8217;s a larger sub in a sealed box with a powerful amp.

First I measured the space in the storage compartment and made a drawing. Also I stacked a few layers of Scosche Accumat/Hyperflex damping material under the felt/carpet to level the trunk floor for the box to sit on. Also a piece of that damping stuff behind the rear license plate too.

Then picked some amp/speaker parts and designed the box. Then keep picking other parts and redesigning the box. Finally the amp I selected is the Sony XM-GS100 and the sub is a 13.5***8221; JL Audio 13TW5v2-2. The cap is a StreetWires 1F thing. The internal volume is a little over 1 cu.ft. This is a thin/low-profile sub and it only requires 0.8 cu.ft. I have plenty of space between the sub and the grill for the wild cone excursion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I printed out the parts with dimensions on paper, and then cut/paste these MDF/wood stuff. I’ve build enough speaker boxes and furniture in the last 25 years… so everything’s easy but just takes time, like forever. This of course took weeks/months (many other things to do). Then paintbrushed them black and sprayed the fancy paint/texture on it.

I ordered the custom grill from a metal fabrication shop because I sure wasn’t going to cut those 70 holes. The grill is a thick 12 gauge steel and powder coated gray/graphite (already tested fine with after stacking stuff on it from costco lol).

The L-bars are cut-to-length (from home depot) and then sprayed black. The grill is to vent the amp and so that the sound doesn’t get trapped under the trunk. Later I found out this Sony amp runs cool even after playing loud for half an hour!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cables are from StreetWires and Monster Cable (used them in the past… always good). Connectors are StreetWires, Monster Cable, Molex and some Gardner Bender (Home Depot) stuff. I had to use a powerful/infamous Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper to crimp these 4 gauge connectors and it works great. Other than a wing screw from the BMW dealer, the other screws/fasteners are from McMaster and Parts Express.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To keep the box from moving (for safety) when the vehicle is in motion there are five bolts/screws. The BMW M8x65mm wing screw goes to the bottom center, and two 1/4" inch diameter screws per side at the top bar further inside. The wing screw actually goes in before bolting in the subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here are just some pictures of the connections after wiring them up. In one of the picture we can see the fiberglass fill inside the box (pink fuzzy/itchy stuff from home depot).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here’re the pictures after it’s installed. I hooked the audio to the two subs under the front seats. The Sony amp auto turns on with the CIC/navi when opening the door. Later it turns off a minute after closing the door or leaving.

I tested and tuned it using about various Autosound/IASCA/Sheffield discs (on MP3 in the HDD) along with many other favorite albums/tracks. Even the Viola track on the BMW Test disc sounds magical. It can pound like crazy after all it’s a powerful amp and that’s a JL sub. 20Hz is easy with this sub/amp/box. This 13.5” (a new/recent size) JL sub hits loud and deep like a 15” sub, and it hits fast like a 12”.

However I have set it to something mild just to get some deep bass extension (don’t need any loud bass). All my favorite music now sounds different/better – discovered there is actually stuff under 40 Hz. I mostly listen to europop, some elevator music (jazz and new age) and the usual top 40 pop/rock stuff. Even before breaking in the sub, the sound quality is already excellent (difficult to explain – something we’ll have to listen to to figure out). Bye.
 

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sound system for X5

XX
This is really nice . GREAT design and execution. Do you have the plans for this set up? Where did you order the speakers? No cutting anything to get the door speakers to fit?
Great work
Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@Kakalika: Thanks!

@Yeagmeister/Jason: Thanks! Yes i have the plan/drawings (using Autodesk AutoCAD M 2014, but just can't give away the files). The 2 pairs of Eton B100N speakers are from Extreme Audio (www.extremeaudio.de), and yes we don't have to cut anything... it just drops in there perfectly including the factory-type wiring/connectors too. The JL 13TW5v2-2 is from Abt (authorized dealer). Thanks.
 

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Beautiful work.
 

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Besides the sub you've installed, would you say the speakers upgrade sound similar to the bmw hifi?
The x5 loaner that I had with the hifi sound was soo much nicer. Sound was soo crisp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@FredoinSF: thanks!

@v8power: I am not sure how the hifi one sounds. If it can hit 14 to 15 kHz at the top, and smooth in the middle, it's probably good too. (We need it strong at the top end to cut thru the road/wind noise when fast on the freeway.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@Fooljam, thanks!!
Yeah the Gladen/Mosconi stuff are nice and some installers love to use it. (Just that I haven't looked for it or not sure where to buy/import it....I was supposed to retire from doing audio mods altogether but just got itchy/couldn't resist ha ha. So, I figured some basic ones will be fine/ok already.)
 

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Very impressive and neat-looking!
Is there any way you make your drawings and part list available?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you TinyRK!

Thank you for asking but I probably can't make it available (too many files, and too much IP in there; or whatever that's left after x-raying and seeing thru it:)). Also it just doesn't fit! I was at a conference once and they said half the stuff we see in a certain catalog/website were rendered by computer. That's why it just doesn't fit when people try to assemble it lol!

The material list is also not too important but if you like to know some of those interesting fasteners I definitely can list them. Well... really... the stuff that you like and the stuff that I like may be different and we'll have to change plans/drawings to match. It's usually easier to start it from the ground up. The old saying is always pick the parts you like to make you happy and not someone else. Sometimes people like to use different material such as layered resin/glass (fiberglass) or have different cutting techniques due to the available power tools and the plans will be different. For example I like to use routers (burnt thru a few of them already in the past many years lol). So, the stuff I make sometimes have strange templates/considerations just for routers to get a certain clean/straight edge. (I can probably explain a little if anyone asks; a person on another forum already asked about some paint stuff and I was happy to describe).

At the end of the day we are all very excited and happy for each other. The diy people over the years all look at each other's stuff, and then design another that improves at the given chance, ie. always make yours better not the same!
 

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Wise words and I respect your decision. We sure do appreciate the pictures...


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
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