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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
So I blew my motor mid March 2016, let's see if I can get this thing done before the 1 year anniversary.
My M5 drivetrain retrofit is not complete. With the exception of the front suspension my wagon had M5 brakes, drivetrain, and rear suspension. M5 purists uncomfortably reposition themselves. :)

Picked up my lengthened and rebuilt M5 driveshaft. It was done by a local shop in Westminster, CA called Driveshaft Pros (Powertrain Industries). It was pricey but they did a great job.


Trans support is held in place by 1 bolt on the passenger side and resituated the tie down so that it securely holds the support but out of the way of the driveshaft and guibo so I can drive my car to a local shop to have a custom trans support fabricated.


When installing the shaft I noticed my LSD input flange had a small flat spot from being mishandled, the lip of the flange was inward about .8mm so not much but enough that the CV wouldn't seat. A couple whacks of the hammer took care of that, hopefully there are no vibrations.


Finding the right torque specs for the M5 driveshaft hardware was unnecessarily difficult to track down but I did it.


Driveshaft in!


Unfortunately one of the spacers supplied with the UUC SSK was deformed or incorrectly machined so I will need to see if UUC can send me a replacement.




Aside from the incorrect spacer the shifter assembly is installed.



I will be running the silver BMW nob temporarily until I get the shifter height dialed in, after that I plan to modify the UUC SSK and fabricate a machines gated shifter plate. I guess there are some hurdles which I might have to face with externally gating an internally gated shifter. We shall see.


Some eBay Specials which I will be using for my gated shifter, both are stainless steel and heavy, 1lb 7oz to be exact.


The threads needed to be cut down and the rod was too shiny for my preference.


Threads cut and rod brushed. Left=Temp Right=Final


There are some nice Ferrari gates and I also like the R8 design but the Lamborghini Gallardo gated plate is my main inspiration, I have to replicate the clean design with recessed hardware.


Notice a theme? :)



Up next will be finalizing the ABS/DSC M5 relocation...

Evan
 

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It's getting there isn't it! :)
Thank you for sharing your project!
 

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What about towing it on a flatbed tow truck to the shop for the trans mount? Would there be chance or concern of tweaking something without the trans mount fully bolted down?

Trans support is held in place by 1 bolt on the passenger side and resituated the tie down so that it securely holds the support but out of the way of the driveshaft and guibo so I can drive my car to a local shop to have a custom trans support fabricated.


Evan
 

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Discussion Starter #106
It's getting there isn't it! :)
Thank you for sharing your project!
Getting close!
This is looking very good!
Thank you
What about towing it on a flatbed tow truck to the shop for the trans mount? Would there be chance or concern of tweaking something without the trans mount fully bolted down?
Yea, that was my original thought and then I was getting feedback from others who "limped" their car around with a strap supporting the trans, not ideal but possible. I was going to entertain that but last night when I was under the wagon I noticed one of the trans support holes I marked with a sharpie was slightly off center due to the tie down pulling and pivoting the support forward. Consequently there would be some compromise to the working angle of the first 1/2 of the driveshaft so I agree it would be best to have it towed.

Evan
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Sorting through the rants nest that is M5 spec ABS/DSC hardlines which are pre bent (except the 2 rear lines which oddly came from Germany straight) but unfortunately every single port is different between the 535i RWD DSC and M5 DSC, big oversight on my part. #RetrofittingProblems

With my bare hands and a socket I was able to get the 2 rear lines and 1 line from the master cylinder bent and connected to the pump, they are not pretty but should work just fine. The other 3 lines had mismatching fitting diameters so Mesa Hose in Costa Mesa, CA is cutting my M5 hardlines and welding on some AN fitting which will be connected to a couple 8" SS soft lines so I can connect everything.

Once this is done I can reinstall the M5 brakes (Rotoras will wait) and bleed the brakes + clutch. :)

Bending hardlines


Label twice


Removing the front right hard line was a real peach (sarcasm) as I needed to remove the coolant lines and AC lines which run through the firewall amongst other things. I hate taking 1 step back to take 2 steps forward.


Hard lines bent and connected for master cylinder feed and R+L rear brakes lines. Fittings installed for the remaining ports in anticipation for the flexible lines.


My tips which were some cheapo black powdercoated slash cut tips were showing signs of wear from the heat.


So I sanded them down and hit them with a fresh coat of some ceramic engine enamel, we will see how it holds up.


Some details of the Y-pipe on my exhaust system. Welding is cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Picked up the hydraulic lines from Mesa Hose. Hard lines were cut and had fitting welded on and they made 3 flexible lines to connect my hard lines to the ABS pump which had -AN bubble flare fittings.


The hardlines were exposed from the welding process so I taped them off and hit them with some Plasti Dip for protection.


They fit


Not the prettiest of of setups but thankfully this is now tucked away and out of the engine bay.


With the ABS/DSC now connected I could reinstall the brakes (again).


When you realize your mountain bike has better brakes than your car.


Wheel liner installed and DSC pump forever out of sight.


Time to bleed the brakes and clutch. Brakes were initially bled in the traditional manner with a Motiv pressure bleeder.



I tried to run the "Brake System" bleeding procedure in INPA where the ABS pump systematically activates to expel small air bubbles but of course since I have a RWD DSC pump in a US spec E61 where DSC modules were never fitted I ran into an issue getting the RWD module coded to my car. @levani was a huge help in getting my car to recognize the pump and even tracked down some INPA software files so I could have diagnostic capabilities (even if the files were in German). I Google translated my way and found the procedure but unfortunately it didn't work which is ok since I can always get this done later with other means.




Bleeding the clutch has given me all kinds of problems. Pressure bleeding against gravity didn't work. I also tried hand bleeding the slave cylinder with the clutch both retracted and extended. The only thing I haven't done is reverse bleed. Not sure why these BMW clutches have to be so difficult, while researching it online it appears to be a common theme.

As it is now, my clutch pedal is light/dead for the first 40% of travel, at about 50-60% travel I can hear the clutch being activated and the annoying upgrade clutch noise cease however I need to give the clutch >95% travel to get it to activate properly and once the gear is selected engagement starts REALLY early, well when about 5% of travel is used releasing the clutch pedal. I will be playing around with it more today.


Open DP cold starts were getting old for the neighbors so it was time to put the exhaust back in. I took the opportunity to lightly sand down the piping and remove any remaining charred oil marks and cooling droplets from when the engine blew.


Can you tell which section I sanded?


Ceramic coated ***, dirty merge collector, clean section 2 and 3.


Sways were reinstalled with some other necessary braces since my wagon is getting ready to support it's own weight. It looks like RD Sport went under so I had no way of getting the fancy proprietary teflon based bushing lubricant, so I referenced by friend the internet and it told me to use liberal amounts of Mobile 1 synthetic grease, so I did. If it squeaks then I will find another solution.


Off the jackstands!


Ta Da!


After a quick waterless wash.

 

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How about that!!! This is awesome! Good for you, Evan. Excellent work. I know this has been a long time coming. I bet this felt really good to get it back on the ground.

This build shows that with some determination and small deposits of time over time, most anything can be accomplished.

Now you just have to get your transmission mount and headlights squared away. ;););):thumbup:

Looks like there are a couple of pics that just show the image code and not the pic itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Rear axle nuts were torqued to spec (as hard as possible without snapping the breaker bar) since the car is now on the ground.

Rebled the clutch again (again again) and achieved more satisfactory results, might do it again down the line. Used some plumbers tape and zip ties instead of the $180 BMW Special tool.


Spec 3+ clutch and SMFW were making an odd mechanical groaning noise NOT THE DIESEL CHATTER (which everyone kept telling me even though I already specified it was a different noise). I think something was sticking as the groan was linked to rotation and magically stopped happening with a couple clutch engagements, it popped up again and then disappeared, components were installed dry as per instructions so I will keep my eye on it.


Rear pull rods got a fresh coat of paint and were installed with the strut brace, you can see why I needed to trim the large heat sink on the M5 LSD.




Engine bay is not fully reassembled with PCV, OCC, strut brace, and cooling shroud reinstalled. It looks SO much better with the DSC pump out of there, really happy with the results.

Blue painter's tape was removed from them fenders. +5hp.





 

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Discussion Starter #111
How about that!!! This is awesome! Good for you, Evan. Excellent work. I know this has been a long time coming. I bet this felt really good to get it back on the ground.

This build shows that with some determination and small deposits of time over time, most anything can be accomplished.

Now you just have to get your transmission mount and headlights squared away. ;););):thumbup:

Looks like there are a couple of pics that just show the image code and not the pic itself.
For some reason I can't edit that particular post but the pics were not terribly exciting anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
Snuck down the street to a local father/son repair shop to have them fabricate a transmission mount.


While the wagon was on a lift I snapped a couple pics of the undercarriage.






Completed trans support built to connect my oem 535xi Transfer case support mounting points to the 335i trans and UUC mounts. It is just what I wanted: reliable, serviceable, and economical. Strictly business.








My pedal trim needed to have a slit cut to allow for clutch pedal travel. A dremel made quick work of that. As you can see the foam piece was already there for the 3rd pedal.


I would almost rather install turbos than this center console, I hate it.
BEFORE


AFTER


At last, a manual transmission.
 

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Yeah, I agree. That mount is all simplicity and business.

Very very sick. It makes me wish BMW made a RWD 535i E61 in the US. Congratulations!

So how was the drive there to the fab shop? ;-)

How was the drive after? :banana::drive: :)

I am curious about that short shifter you've installed, been contemplating getting that for my 6MT.
How would you describe the feel of it? Is it smooth and short or more mechanical feeling? I've had 2 different short shifters in a mid 90's Ford Taurus SHO and one was a shorter smoother throw, the other was even shorter and was very metallic and mechanical feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Yeah, I agree. That mount is all simplicity and business.

Very very sick. It makes me wish BMW made a RWD 535i E61 in the US. Congratulations!

So how was the drive there to the fab shop? ;-)

How was the drive after? :banana::drive: :)

I am curious about that short shifter you've installed, been contemplating getting that for my 6MT.
How would you describe the feel of it? Is it smooth and short or more mechanical feeling? I've had 2 different short shifters in a mid 90's Ford Taurus SHO and one was a shorter smoother throw, the other was even shorter and was very metallic and mechanical feeling.
My shifter feel as of now is notchy but direct, I would prefer for it to be slicker but I don't think that is in the cards with these BMW shifters and MTs. I had a UUC SSK with the DSSR on my old E39 M5 and feel was similar notchy, mechanical, but direct. My E61 shifter isn't as direct but I still need to get more time with it. I might raise it and will at some point add a heavier shift knob.

Clutch is still being broken in so I can't really have fun but the ride home was like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr7EO-NNnOU&feature=youtu.be
 

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Discussion Starter #115
With the trans support installed and shake-down period up next I turned my focus to software; pulling module codes, updating JB4/MHD BEFs, and resetting some adaptions

Wagon is currently running 91 pump gas with the port injection by passed and JB4 in Map 5.

Unfortunately it looks like there is a break in the PT-CAN as I have a few errors linked to the SZL and I think my DSC module is the culprit, it no longer shows up in INPA or NCSE. It did before so maybe something came loose when I was finalizing my DSC hydraulic lines? :\

There is also a clutch switch and brake light error which points to wiring for the MT. Reverse lights DO NOT work but wagon starts with clutch pressed in.





As it is the engine feels smooth and strong, I can feel the difference with the new engine mounts, upgraded trans and diff mounts, and my new/reinforced shifter mounts, everything feels tight and vivid without harsh. I get what sounds like a hint of diff whine on decel but that is the only noticeable downside to the firmer bushings.

I sold my old quad projector headlights to a fellow E61 owner which means I have to whip some up for my wagon. My new build will look similar to the last iteration but with a black eyebrow and some REALLY sick HID projectors retrofitted for the low beam, my personal favorite: SC430 projectors.


SC430 output:


 

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oh damn.. thats a really nice light beam from those lights. I'd get an erection driving like that at night.
 

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As a soon to be 535ix Touring owner, your build threads, updates and car are an inspiration. Keep it coming. Not new to modifying, but new to bmw so for me, very helpful. Very interested in picking your brain about your exhaust.

May have missed it, but how/why did your engine blow?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Great build! What do you think of that UR lower brace? Any noticeable change in driving dynamics?
 

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Discussion Starter #120
As a soon to be 535ix Touring owner, your build threads, updates and car are an inspiration. Keep it coming. Not new to modifying, but new to bmw so for me, very helpful. Very interested in picking your brain about your exhaust.

May have missed it, but how/why did your engine blow?
My best guess is the Cylinder 3 detonated due to a misfire and slow reaction of my supplemental throttle body injection system.
Great build! What do you think of that UR lower brace? Any noticeable change in driving dynamics?
I installed the front upper, front lower, and rear lower braces all at the same time so I can't comment on the improvements offered by just one brace but I did find them to be very helpful, There is less chassis twisting when going up driveways and uneven surfaces. I find the wagon to be much more "solid" than before. They are a definite upgrade.

Evan
 
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