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Sounds like the AGC (automatic gain control) that switches between the two is off. But in this tech, that is all processor controlled and not manually controllable with a poti, like older descretic component electronic tech.
I cant recall, did you change the ccc unit? Fairly sure that has some of the tuner components and possibly the gain control.
I cant recall, did you change the ccc unit? Fairly sure that has some of the tuner components and possibly the gain control.
Yep, I've seen it in other head decks where you want to receive 98.4 FM (NZ even frequencies) and you have to tune to 98.45 as the RF or IF strip has drifted slightly.
The one in my vehicle is slightly off, but not a full digit and not across the full range, so some stations tune ok (stronger side bands) and others don't. But seen as I'd rather listen to a Spotify playlist, I haven't bothered with it as the whole CCC unit would need to be replaced (VIN changed and coding etc) or a person with the correct schematic diagrams and alignment gear would need to inject a signal and align the few RF & IF items that can be adjusted.
The one in my vehicle is slightly off, but not a full digit and not across the full range, so some stations tune ok (stronger side bands) and others don't. But seen as I'd rather listen to a Spotify playlist, I haven't bothered with it as the whole CCC unit would need to be replaced (VIN changed and coding etc) or a person with the correct schematic diagrams and alignment gear would need to inject a signal and align the few RF & IF items that can be adjusted.
From my experience, yes, I think head deck. Especially as mine does a similar thing. The Ants are active, and like anything thats powered, can play up, but its Occams razor.
I agree with Herb and personally went the Android head deck route. Google maps and greater access to radio via the internet etc.
I agree with Herb and personally went the Android head deck route. Google maps and greater access to radio via the internet etc.
From Hifimax.net
The E60 5 series ones work in our 6's
I've had it for over a year in the 650 and another one in the F25 X3 for over 2-years. So CCC & CIC versions.
No compatible problems, just a bit of setting up and experimenting with the factory settings in the initial stages. Fortunately Paul and the team include the code for the factory settings with the unit. Both have Sim slot and anti- glare coatings plus the reverse camera input. But if your 6 has the TV tuner, you can wire the camera to it, and set the screen to use "factory" camera instead. Either way the PDC is still displayed.
Overall the unit is great and I'm very happy with them.
The E60 5 series ones work in our 6's
I've had it for over a year in the 650 and another one in the F25 X3 for over 2-years. So CCC & CIC versions.
No compatible problems, just a bit of setting up and experimenting with the factory settings in the initial stages. Fortunately Paul and the team include the code for the factory settings with the unit. Both have Sim slot and anti- glare coatings plus the reverse camera input. But if your 6 has the TV tuner, you can wire the camera to it, and set the screen to use "factory" camera instead. Either way the PDC is still displayed.
Overall the unit is great and I'm very happy with them.
May they are referring to the test in the hidden menu, displayed in this video
The Android unit I mentioned previously just replaces the screen. So you still use the factory LVDS plug, for all the factory functions.
The Android functions are built in to the screen and are accessed by a long press of the iDrive "menu" button or holding your finger on the screen.
The screen comes with a break-in plug & socket wiring harness, for the back of the ccc, the square fakra plug. All you need to do is shift the MOST bus fibre optics from the factory plug to break-in harness plug. The "T" junction wiring from this harness then powers the screen. The screen has a separate plug and socket for the other accessories such as USBs, rev camera, dash cam input, mic etc.
It fairly easy to install, and if you watch a couple of YT vids from hifimax or others, showing how to install first, you'll be fine.
Its a great upgrade.
I've also seen a different upgrade option, a seperate add in box, that gives you just Android Auto or Apple car play to the Factory display. But the pricing seems to similar to the Android screen, which with the additional functions of the screen, I personally can see the benifit of adding just Android Auto.
The Android functions are built in to the screen and are accessed by a long press of the iDrive "menu" button or holding your finger on the screen.
The screen comes with a break-in plug & socket wiring harness, for the back of the ccc, the square fakra plug. All you need to do is shift the MOST bus fibre optics from the factory plug to break-in harness plug. The "T" junction wiring from this harness then powers the screen. The screen has a separate plug and socket for the other accessories such as USBs, rev camera, dash cam input, mic etc.
It fairly easy to install, and if you watch a couple of YT vids from hifimax or others, showing how to install first, you'll be fine.
Its a great upgrade.
I've also seen a different upgrade option, a seperate add in box, that gives you just Android Auto or Apple car play to the Factory display. But the pricing seems to similar to the Android screen, which with the additional functions of the screen, I personally can see the benifit of adding just Android Auto.
Nope, not on mine.
But with the exception of the amplifier and iDrive controller, via the bus lines, I don't think it interacts with a lot of the system components.
Btw, as you would expect ISTA reports the "VM" (display) as a permanent fault.
But thats a minor trade off.
But with the exception of the amplifier and iDrive controller, via the bus lines, I don't think it interacts with a lot of the system components.
Btw, as you would expect ISTA reports the "VM" (display) as a permanent fault.
But thats a minor trade off.
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