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their is a slight bearing type noise in the front end with a clunk when going in and out of the driveway, also a shudder when putting the brakes on harder then normal.
Some one suggested a hydro bearing and I am not sure what that is.
Should I change the wheel bearings and also how long do struts last? My car has 160km on it.
 

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their is a slight bearing type noise in the front end with a clunk when going in and out of the driveway, also a shudder when putting the brakes on harder then normal.
Some one suggested a hydro bearing and I am not sure what that is.
Should I change the wheel bearings and also how long do struts last? My car has 160km on it.
Hey slick. The hydro bearing is this thingy:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NN73-USA-04-2005-E61-BMW-530xi&diagId=31_0729

Item Number 9.

If they are bad, they will cause brake shudder as though you have bad rotors. Check your rotors with a dial indicator first to confirm they are good, then proceed. They will typically last 150K to 200K Kms.

The wheel bearing will give you a grinding noise or a howl. Changing them is a giant PITA.
I had one fail at about 120K Km.

I still have my original OEM Sachs struts at 310,000 Km. They still work OK and are still gas charged but I may have an issue with a strut bearing as I sometimes hear a light clunk when passing over a bump.
 

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How can one confirm if it is the hydro bearing?
 

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One good way, in the early stages of failure, is to look for fluid seeping out of the bushing. This particular bushing has some amount of oil? within the bushing. When they get really bad, can physically move the control arm with a limited amount of persuasion.
 

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One good way, in the early stages of failure, is to look for fluid seeping out of the bushing. This particular bushing has some amount of oil? within the bushing. When they get really bad, can physically move the control arm with a limited amount of persuasion.
+1. You can also do a visual inspection of the hydro bearing by removing the cover pieces at the front of the car. If you see any cracks in the rubber, they are pretty much done. It is possible to press out the old ones and replace them which is a whole lot cheaper than the complete arm. You will need a 10 tonne press (minimum) as well as some metal parts to only press the sides of the bearing to be removed and installed. An extra pair of hands is good as well, when you are positioning things.
 

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Thanks for the advise guys, will inspect them this Sunday. I hate the noise and I've just replaced both rod ends, so I know that's not my issue. BTW they did need replacement since wheels could be moved by hand.
I guess the next possible option would be sway bar bushings.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
 
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