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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to change the fuel filter today and saw that the rubber fuel lines are dry rotted. Not good for driving, so I want to replace them. In the back, I want to say it's 8x13mm, but how many LF do I need to replace all the lines in back?

Fuel pump to fuel filter, return lines, etc.?

What about at the engine? What's the qty and LF there?

Thanks,
Jim

BTW: What size is the allen bolt on the diff? 14mm? I'llchange the rear end dope while I'm under there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Went and bought 12' of 8mm fuel line (probably too much, but better to have enough than, not enough when you need it). Looks like the front has been replaced recently, so I'll leave that alone for now.

Now I just need to figure out where it goes and how to access it. I want to say under the rear seat or trunk?
 

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ya, I am looking to do the same thing. although i have an 85 325e. my lines are pretty much exposed along the drivers side. I am going to have to drop the tank to fully replace everything.

but, send along some pics so we can see what your dealing with. Mine is all rust and grim..

when you open a pressurized system like that, does it need to be re pressurized? or when you turn on the ignition does that do it?
 

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there should only be bout 3-4 foot from the pump to the hard line underneathe inside the drivers wheel. then bout 4 foot from the hard line to the filter. should be the same length for all of them, except the line to the charcoal canister
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No need to pull the tank and if you do, you'll need to drop the rear crossmember. Unless your going to do bushings, etc., I'd leave it.

The fuel system might bleed down over night/time, but if it doesn't, you can bleed it by loosening a fuel line at the fuel filter. Be careful as it can spray out and on you (like it did me :( )

The fuel pump location is under the passenger side rear seat. You access it by pushing in the bottom on both sides and lifting up, then pull the rear carpet forward and the sound pad under the seat back. There's a oval access cover held on with 4 screws. On the driver side, is a round access cover held on by 4 screws. The round hole acts as a half way point and allows you to push/pull the hose to the fuel pump on the driver side and down to the fuel pump on the driver side. I would get 8-10 new small hose clamps, as the old ones might strip, as some of mine did.

There's a 6" - 8" piece you can replace under the oval cover. The other piece is 3' - 4' long and goes from the pump to the filter. There's another two shorter pieces 6" -8" at the filter. One is a snap to replace but the other goes to a hard line up near the top of the tank. That one was a PITA to loosen the clamp and pull off, but I was able to get to it by spinning it to the point I could get a small 1/4 ratchet with a 6" wobble end extension and a 5 or 6mm socket on it. There's no way to lower the fuel tank to give enough room, as far as I could tell.

I can take some pix tomorrow, as I need to button it up tomorrow.

ya, I am looking to do the same thing. although i have an 85 325e. my lines are pretty much exposed along the drivers side. I am going to have to drop the tank to fully replace everything.

but, send along some pics so we can see what your dealing with. Mine is all rust and grim..

when you open a pressurized system like that, does it need to be re pressurized? or when you turn on the ignition does that do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pix Added.

Hopefully I've labled them right...
 

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