[dvs //m3]

have a 2001 530 and Fuse 53 (central door locking) keeps blowing/popping. Today, I replaced the fuel door actuator and replaced the fuse. I was able to lock/unlock/release the trunk for 2-3 times. Then the fuse blew. I disconnected the trunk actuator again and replaced the fuses. Now, the fuses keep blowing as I am trying to insert them. I then tried re-attached the trunk actuator and the fuse blew when I was trying to insert them.

Any thoughts or ideas why might be causing this? I have been manually locking/unlocking and it seems to be in working condition.

 

[dvs //m3]

I think I might have found a fix!
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434384

 

[edjack]

Pull back the rubber boot between the trunk lid and body, and check for broken or shorted wires.

 

[194449]

Another potential gremlin is a failing gas door actuator. Does yours lock when the car is locked?

 

[edjack]

He said he replaced the actuator. Wonder if it was new?

 

[194449]

Phew man I need new glasses or something.... Disregard.

 

[bluebee]

I know the OP has seen this, so, just for others who come here, this is a prime suspect for 'weird electrical gremlins' as already noted in the aforementioned thread.

 

[dvs //m3]

I unfortunately didn't get a chance to check the wires.

I had replaced the gas door actuator with a new one. Pretty straight forward - I think it took me 20 mins.

I should done more investigation on this. About 2 weeks ago, I noticed that the trunk wasn't opening when I used my remote. The only way to open up the trunk was the trunk button on the inside of the car or my key. I on't go into my truck that often. Then last week, the key fob wasn't opening the car doors. My initial research on the forums pointed to the fuse and the fuel door. I didn't mentally connect the trunk issue and fuse popping together. I just knew my key fob wasn't able to unlock/lock my doors.

I should have check the trunk wires first before replacing the gas door actuator.

I will be checking the wires in a few days.


Thanks for the responses. Will keep you posted

 

[dvs //m3]

I had a look at the wires - it looks like most of the wires are either starting to break or have broken (brown ones). I am going to try and fix this to see if this will stop the fuse popping before I go an order a truck actuator.

 

[dvs //m3]

Ok, decide to try and fix the broken wires. I bought some wire connectors from Radio Shack.

I reattached the red/black;grey/black and taped up one of the brown wires where the rubber was cracking. But I have 2 brown wires that are broken. I have no clue which one I should connect to which as they are both brown. any ideas? is it needed? I think they are just grounds - but I don't know if I can just connect any of the browns to each other.

Hopefully they are not needed.

Once I reattached the red/black and grey/black - I was able to insert the fuse without it popping. I then tested my key fob and everything seems to be working again.

Thanks again bimmerfest! and to those who responded to this thread.

 

[194449]

:supdude:

If you can eyeball the twist orientation of the wires in the harness, maybe that will help identify which brown goes with which. In any case, congrats on getting things all back up and running.

 

[chriscarguy]

You have me worried now. I just got my 540i last week, same issue w/ the central locking unit. I just replaced my 53 fuse and reprogrammed my keys. For now, my keyless entry is working, but my fuel door is not locking. Maybe I need to give it a week or so to see if the fuse blows again. If it doesn't maybe I just need the fuel door actuator.

 

[QSilver7]

You have me worried now. I just got my 540i last week, same issue w/ the central locking unit. I just replaced my 53 fuse and reprogrammed my keys. For now, my keyless entry is working, but my fuel door is not locking. Maybe I need to give it a week or so to see if the fuse blows again. If it doesn't maybe I just need the fuel door actuator.

The previous owner may have disconnected the electrical harness to the fuel filler door actuator...thus, if you replace the fuse, the actuator still wouldn't work.

Look for the electrical harness to the actuator before you do anything else. You can see the actuator in the pic below (flipped around from its mounted orientation in the car). It is located above the car's battery in the structural cross brace for the rear finder:

You can see the actuator's orientation (#17) in the diagram below...it is "hidden" behind the bracket (#23) that secures it to the car:

 

[Burning2nd]

short to ground... pop

 

[bluebee]

I had a look at the wires - it looks like most of the wires are either starting to break or have broken (brown ones)

Please post a picture to this thread of the before & after:
- E39 Electrical Problems Traced to Trunk Lid Harness Wire Chafing (DIY Diagnostic)

Some people just 'know' how to repair this stuff ... but ... for folks who are timid (i.e., people like me) ... it is extremely helpful to see what other people did to splice this repair together.

Please post a picture of your wires before and after! TIA

 

[bluebee]

bought some wire connectors from Radio Shack.

I soldered mine; but I botched the job up. How did yours look in the end?
How did you fit any connectors inside that black rubber snorkel?

2 brown wires that are broken. I have no clue which one I should connect to

As noted in the aforementioned canonical thread on the trunk wiring loom repair, brown is ground (Germans are so poetic).

Therefore, the theory goes, it doesn't matter which you connect to.

Hopefully they are not needed.

It's rare that ground isn't needed. Is your passenger-side license plate light working?

Once I reattached the red/black and grey/black - I was able to insert the fuse without it popping

I was never able to determine what the red/black does; but the gray/black is your right license plate light. They don't seem to have anything to do with each other ...

 

[bluebee]

If fuse #53 is for central door locking - I don't see how the two wires (red/black & gray/black) are related.

Can you?

 

[edmonem]

WOW! how does the wires end up like that? doesnt the boot there protect it from touching the edges...

 

[bluebee]

WOW! how does the wires end up like that? doesnt the boot there protect it from touching the edges...

I think the wires are being STRETCHED inside the boot.
Others think they're being bent.
Either way, they all seem to break in the same spot in the same way.

See, for example, this picture today from the reference thread:
- E39 Electrical Problems Traced to Trunk Lid Harness Wire Chafing (DIY Diagnostic)

BTW, we still have not figured out what the red/black & brown/blue wires innervate.

KNOWN LOOM WIRE CONNECTIONS:
01. Red/yellow line = 2 @ x712 -> trunk lid light (positive)
02. Red/black line = ?
03. Gray/yellow line = 3 @ 1377 -> tunk lid locking switch (open signal)
04. Brown/gray line = 2 @ x709 -> left license plate light (positive)
05. Gray/Brown line = 4 @ x311 -> zv drive (lid closed)
06. Gray/black line = 2 @ x710 -> right license plate light (positive)
07. Gray/Green -> 4 @ x311 -> zv drive rear lid (positive)
08. White/ Brown line = 3 @ x311 -> ZV to luggage compartment light
09. Brown = 1 @ x709 -> left license plate light (ground)
10. Brown = 1 @ x710 -> right license plate light (ground)
11. Brown = 5 @ x311 -> zv drive ground
12. Brown = 1 @ x1377 -> trunk lid locking switch (open signal)
13. Brown/blue line = ?
NOTE: (majority color)/(line color)=(pin number)@(connector number -> description

If the red/black wire is truly associated with fuse #53, shouldn't that tell us 'something' about what the red/black wire innervates?