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Discussion Starter #1
2013 35i, just hit 96K miles a couple days ago. The current OEM battery (AGM 105AH) is clearly on it's last legs - transmission malfunction on autostart, less-than-stellar cranking, and a decent drop in MPG. Super close to purchasing a battery and I know I need to register a new one when I install it, and as of right now I don't have any DIY options available (yet) to register it.

I have sent out feelers to service centers near me on the relative costs of registering a battery, and so far they have been... aggravating. I am in Atlanta and the general search is in that area.
Some paraphrased responses below, business names redacted:

BMW Dealer 1 said:
Cost of registration is $200 with a labor variance
BMW Dealer 2 said:
We do not register non-OEM batteries but we can make a special arrangement for $300
BMW-specific specialist 1 said:
Full battery replacement and registration is $400 (I don't need a replacement, just the registration) Registration is $120 but we strongly advise blah blah blah...
BMW-specific specialist 2 said:
BMWs are super highly sophisticated and complicated cars that only the best and brightest generational mechanical talent can ever touch.... $400 for replacement and registration (I don't need a replacement, just the registration) You must understand little child, you have probably never opened the hood of your car before and scary electrical systems are scary...
General specialist 1 said:
You have to bring the car in first/we aren't telling you
General specialist 2 said:
General specialist 3 said:
We only register our own marked up batteries.
And then there's a couple more that I have yet to hear a response on.

So I'm starting to get rather annoyed by this and swinging towards the DIY route as usual. Problem is, after searching several forums about this, I'm getting conflicting options on what to do. Correct me if I am wrong.

  1. Carly with an OBDII, but I'm reading how Fxx vehicles are not getting properly reset/registered
  2. Buy an ENET cable, download/buy [some software] and register it... but Fxx vehicles also still have problems
  3. Buy a K+DCAN cable, download/buy [some software] and register it... but Fxx vehicles once again still have problems
In all honesty I want to get this as cheaply as possible as long as the battery is correctly proven to be registered. I do not have much faith in someone just saying they registered it and I drive off into the dead battery sunset. I'd even be open to meeting up with someone local that already has the tools and the know-how and just pay them for it. So any and all advice would be appreciated on my best plan of action here. Thanks!
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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The actual costs of a new battery are; the labor removing the old ~40# battery, the labor installing the new battery, hooking up the mothership computer, tapping the computer keys, disposing of the old battery. I see five hours equivalent labor, plus the cost of the battery.

Beware that the new battery is not maintained charged on the shelf awaiting sale to YOU that may buy a new nearly dead battery that your BMW will never ever fully charge.

I was pleased to pay ~$350 to preemptively change and upgrade to 105 AH battery.
 

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I replaced my battery about 18 months ago and used Carly to register it. I was not able to reset the battery mileage, though; Carly can't do that. All I could do was set the capacity value (which is what registration is all about).

At the time the cost of a battery through AutoZone plus the cost of the Carly adapter and software registration was about equal to the cost of having an independent shop do the work. And when I was done I had Carly to do some other code mods. As noted above the battery will have to be fully charged before you install it; I already had a charger so that wasn't an issue for me.
 

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Maybe you can find an indy to perhaps do the job less expensively, depending on what battery you end up getting as a replacement. It may end up costing about the same, but $450 is probably about the average price, alas. You're very fortunate your battery lasted as long as it did. I had to gt mine replaced at around 80k miles/6 years.
 

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About 3 years ago I was having occasional battery discharged alerts, and one time the battery was completely dead. I was thinking the battery was on its last legs. It was in the winter, with higher electrical usage (heated seats, etc). In my case, I seem to have resolved it by locking the car even in the garage. In some cases, I think the computer messed up and didn't turn off the electronics as fast as it should.

Of course, age will eventually get to it. Nearly 6 years and 82,000 miles on the car now.
 

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To the OP: With a $6 cable, laptop and the Rheingold ISTA software, you can register the battery properly on your own. Check here


I see five hours equivalent labor, plus the cost of the battery.
Not sure what shop would take 5 hours to change a battery, but if they can't do it in under an hour, I would find a different shop.
All I could do was set the capacity value (which is what registration is all about).
There's more to registering a battery than making sure the car know the capacity of the battery in mAH. Registering the battery is letting the charging system know they battery is new, therefore the charging characteristics are different, so if you want to longest life out of the battery, the computer needs to know the battery is new.
I don't want to see people have their battery prematurely fail because they read registering it only involves making sure the capacity is correct. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
 

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The indy that did this for me had 2 hours of labor costs, including picking up a new battery. All settings were properly registered. Bottom line is make sure whoever does this knows what they are doing and does a complete a thorough job.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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At a minimum registration resets State of Health initial, and coulombs in and out.
 

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I bought my replacement battery with a 20% off coupon from advance auto almost 4 years ago. My Indy charged 1.25 hours of labor to install it and register it. No issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the replies/comments so far. I agree that there are reasons why the prices are high, but there's a point where the BMW tax should not come in to fair play. Right now there's a couple battery deals that bring in a H9 or equiv. AGM battery under the $200 mark, hence me not wanting to get a combo deal from a specialist.

About 3 years ago I was having occasional battery discharged alerts, and one time the battery was completely dead. I was thinking the battery was on its last legs. It was in the winter, with higher electrical usage (heated seats, etc). In my case, I seem to have resolved it by locking the car even in the garage. In some cases, I think the computer messed up and didn't turn off the electronics as fast as it should.

Of course, age will eventually get to it. Nearly 6 years and 82,000 miles on the car now.
Definitely not weather/climate related; car is garaged most of the time and happens hot or cold, rain or dry, original battery AFAIK (purchased the car at 30K miles).


To the OP: With a $6 cable, laptop and the Rheingold ISTA software, you can register the battery properly on your own. Check here
This approach appears to be the least inconsistent with results, so that's good. And by cable, you mean the Ethernet-based ENET cable I see on Amazon and other places?

The actual costs of a new battery are; the labor removing the old ~40# battery, the labor installing the new battery, hooking up the mothership computer, tapping the computer keys, disposing of the old battery. I see five hours equivalent labor, plus the cost of the battery.
Add a bathroom break to the list and you can probably bill a 6th hour...
 

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Recently took my X3 to the dealer for $89 oil change, tire rotation, battery test, 21-pt. inspection (had coupon). They notified me the battery was showing signs of being on its way out (6 yrs old). They replaced it for $400. Cost of battery was $191, the rest was labor. I was anticipating this given the age, so just took them up on it to avoid the potential failures. And I was given a brand new X3 w/ 6 miles on it for the day as a loaner. Got to go for a 70 mile test drive:) Add it all up, I didn't think it was a bad deal.
 

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Maybe a cursory view of your Rheingold link was not enough, but what does this s/w cost? I understand the pc cable part and these are not expensive, but s/w can be. I own two '16 BMWs so over time the s/w would be useful. Also, there are a few coding changes that might be useful (such as defaulting to "eco" mode).
 

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I have very little mechanical skills, but was able to accomplish the job in under an hr (including watching a few youtube videos of others doing it)







Carly app was very user friendly








one that that I noticed was the actual KM/miles, It looks like it was never reset ... EVER! the car is indeed at 116k. is it true carly cannot reset that value? if so, what other tools can achieve this? (wireless pref, but can buy a cable if absolutely necessary)

 

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My 2017 X3 has 93k miles. I am now wondering what the battery life will be? I assume that $400 or so for a battery is the price of ownership. What are the warning signs the battery is failing? Is battery life dependent on mileage? I parked the X3 for two months and left a battery tender (Ctech) on it. Should I be proactive and replace the battery at the next oil change due at 96k miles?
 

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My 2017 X3 has 93k miles. I am now wondering what the battery life will be? I assume that $400 or so for a battery is the price of ownership. What are the warning signs the battery is failing? Is battery life dependent on mileage? I parked the X3 for two months and left a battery tender (Ctech) on it. Should I be proactive and replace the battery at the next oil change due at 96k miles?
A dealership can check it for you, perhaps an indy, as well. No reason to replace it if not necessary. Mine was down from 950 to around 550 crank power, after 6+ years and 80k miles.
 

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I had an indy shop perform an inspection (free for AAA members)

they mentioned a low batt. good timing, pepboys ran a great 25% off sale, which made it cheaper than costco
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Minor update:

One of the local BMW dealers called me and said they offered OEM 105Ah batteries for well under $200 - far cheaper than any 3rd party or coupon-stacked battery elsewhere. They did mention the registration but assumed I had the means to do it myself or utilize a specialist. I ordered the right cable form Amazon a week prior and the ICAN software from this forum, and all is well. I did forget to write down/photograph the serial codes for registration purposes, so I had to remove the covers/cables a second time during the registration.
 

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I bought a foxwell nt530 that will reset the battery as well as resetting abs and srs error codes for under 200. USD, that is BMW spesifik with the adapter for the older models with the round plug under the hood. I am very happy with it. It works great on both my 2013 x3 and 1999 e36 convertible.
 
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