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Discussion Starter #1
About two years ago my thermostat crapped out and I replaced it. 10 months later it went again and BMW made me bring them the car so they could replace it. About two months ago the heater stopped working so I took it to my new local dealer, Escondido BMW, since I moved in the fall of last year. They insisted it was the battery, I insisted it wasn't. They insisted it had nothing to do with the t stat. But I knew there had been some battery issues with the car so I went ahead and let them replace it. The heater worked for a few days and crapped out again. The temp gauge worked fine at this point.

I took it back and asked them to fix it. They had it for ten days and told me I owed 30% or the repair cost, $135. I went in and asked why that was the case when I had provided them receipts that the stat was within the warranty period. They said I hadn't provided the original receipt. That was true, but I had provided the warranty paperwork from the first BMW dealer showing the date I had purchased the original t stat, along with an invoice number. I was more than a little pissed that they refused to accept this and made me call Center BMW and get a copy of the original receipt, a 30 second process they could have easily have done instead of arguing with the factory over who would be paying what. I asked what was the issue. The stat. Well, no kidding.

Hop in my car the next day, no heat. Drive it for two hours straight, it starts to heat up around 90 minutes in, but never gets hotter than about 50*. I drive through the mountains to get to work and it's been in the low teens. Makes for a cold drive and I'm really starting to get upset. So, new stat, cooling system is full and has been bled. They tell me they flushed the system twice while they had it apart. What should I be looking at or pointing them to since they can't seem to find the issue?
 

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I don't have any technical advice, but how about taking it to a reputed indy shop who might be able to figure it out? Doesn't seem like this dealership is really into understanding the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Certainly not a bad idea, except that I gave them $600 already and they haven't fixed the problem. Very tempted to just do a chargeback and walk away
 

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First thing to establish is whether the engine is reaching operating temperature or not. If it is then you may have a problem with one or more vacuum motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Based solely on the oil temp gauge, i would say that the engine is not up to temp. It ran right under 250* for several years, and now is sitting right at 205 after their last attempt to replace the stat. I believe there are two part numbers for this VIN, and they got the wrong one. I tried to explain this to the service guy and he basically ignored me.
 

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Based solely on the oil temp gauge, i would say that the engine is not up to temp. It ran right under 250* for several years, and now is sitting right at 205 after their last attempt to replace the stat. I believe there are two part numbers for this VIN, and they got the wrong one. I tried to explain this to the service guy and he basically ignored me.
That's oil not coolant temperature. Important difference.

205 is a normal temperature for engine oil and in cold weather it can take some time to get there. 205 when driving through 20 degree weather is in my experience about right. I only get close to 250 on a hot summer day with the ac on at 70mph+.

The coolant thermostat directly and quickly effects coolant flow and it's temperature. It indirectly and more slowly effects oil temperature.

Are you concerned about the oil temperature reading? Or the temperature of air coming out the vents?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know but that's the only gauge I have. Solely the air coming out of the vents. I have no heat.
 

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I know but that's the only gauge I have. Solely the air coming out of the vents. I have no heat.
You could ask the tech to check coolant temperature. I suspect it will be ok. My guess is a vacuum motor not opening a door to allow warm air in.
 

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I am guessing they checked codes when you first took it to the dealer. That's the first think to check. I am guessing that John MS is right or a sensor has gone bad.
 
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