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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought end links and bushings for the rear sway bar after I found out that my passenger side sway bar links is totally broken at the lower ball joint. It rejoiced me a bit because this could definitely be the cause of my passenger rear clunks on uneven roads.

Onto the job itself. I was discouraged by the general lack of access to begin with, and got completely :confused: after I discovered that a long socket has been left on a bolt and seized tight onto the bolt by the previous owner, over 5 years ago. The socket was on the inside bottom bolt of the passenger side shocks. And Murphy's law made it just half an inch above where the end link was bolted to the rear control arm(?), meaning that the already limited access was made impossible by this rusted socket :mad:. I spayed WD40 and dead-hammered the socket to no avail :cry:.

ETA: The photo is taken from behind the car facing the front on the passenger side. The yellow one is the shock absorber and the rusty horizontal one is the socket in question. In the foreground are the sway bar and the end link.

I have a cooking butane torch but am not confident in how to use it in this case since I've never cooked sockets before. Any ideas? I am also open to sending this job to an indy shop if labor cost is not too much. I am in the SF bay area.

Thanks! :thumbup:
 

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Just call me 777.
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WD40 is a bad penetrating oil. Go to an auto zone and buy some Kroil and spray the everloving hell out of the threads. Then give it some time to sit then give it hell. Use a wrench that has an indent in the jaws for round objects. Grab onto the socket and use a 16mm wrench on the other side of the control arm and rotate the bolt using the 16mm wrench. Should come off easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Photo added for clarity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
WD40 is a bad penetrating oil. Go to an auto zone and buy some Kroil and spray the everloving hell out of the threads. Then give it some time to sit then give it hell. Use a wrench that has an indent in the jaws for round objects. Grab onto the socket and use a 16mm wrench on the other side of the control arm and rotate the bolt using the 16mm wrench. Should come off easy.
Sounds promising :thumbup: will try.
 

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Just call me 777.
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Photo added for clarity.
You don't need to remove that socket to take off the end link. At the base of the threads there is a place where you can set an open ended wrench. You can break off the end link at the ball joint to make it easier. After that spray the inside of the socket with Kroil and then get a short heavy metal hammer and beat that socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks.

I understand that I could use a 16mm open-ended wrench to counterhold the bolt when turning the nut to remove it. The broken ball joint did make the counterholding on this side easier. But at the time, I found the socket more of an obstacle than what is revealed by the photo here. It's possible that I didn't try hard enough being frustrated by the socket's discovery.
 

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That's nuts. An air hammer would blast that socket off but would risk damaging the head of that bolt. Have you tried hammering a screw driver or lunch at it Where it is stuck on the bolt.

Its hard to tell what to do without seeing the area under the car to know all of the obstacles.

Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk
 

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Jesus how long was that socket there?

And did you manmage to remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not too long. A little bit over 5 years, I believe.

Leaving it be for another week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Didn't try using screwdriver. I think it's brilliant!
 

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If you're cutting stuff off, I've had good luck getting in pretty tight spaces with a long saw blade on my sawsall

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That socket is brilliantly funny!

Careful with the torch, there may be rubber parts in the eye of the shock that may get damaged by heat.

I'm wondering if someone used the wrong size socket and it got jammed with the tightening torque.
 

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That socket is brilliantly funny!

Careful with the torch, there may be rubber parts in the eye of the shock that may get damaged by heat.

I'm wondering if someone used the wrong size socket and it got jammed with the tightening torque.
Any of us who have worked in this frustratingly tight space can imagine scenarios like "just leave the damn thing on there" to "went to answer the phone and forgot about the socket when he came back" or others.
 

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The way to get the socket off is to find a way to get an extension (looks like a 3/8 drive) or perhaps a universal fitted to the rusted socket and then attach a ratchet or breaker bar to the extension (universal) and wind the socket and the bolt (it's a M14X1.5X100) out of the wheel bearing carrier. You should support the wheel bearing carrier because it will drop down when the bolt is removed. You can then mount the rusted socket to a vice and with some heat you should be able to drive the bolt out of the socket with a punch.

Then remount the shock with the bolt and torque to spec.
 

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Leaving or forgetting is one thing, that it stayed on to be rusted in place without an interference fit is pretty amazing. Especially, with all the bumps of daily driving.

I like the "remove sway bar" idea , and being ready with a new fastener.
 

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I'd remove the whole sway bar to get better access to the ratchet end of the alien socket. It's easy enough. You will need a thin 16mm (like a bicycle wrench) open end wrench to hold the end link while removing the nut. Should be able to get all that off without being hindered by the socket.
 
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