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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Several months ago I had a 25 ft. fishing boat that I pulled with a 2000 Suburban. I have a back and hip problem and decided to sell both the boat and the truck. I really didn't want to give up fishing altogether and found a really nice BMW wagon to be my fishing and grocery getter car. The guy that was interested in buying both the boat and truck backed out and I lost the opportunity to purchase the wagon. In March I found a nice 2000 540i Sport with 127K miles and bought it. Not being familiar with what the Sport package really is or BMW's, I found the seats not suited for me because of my back and hip issues. For the past couple of weeks I have searched Craigslist for a suitable car and found a 2000 740i with 135K miles. The owner and I liked each other's car so we swapped even. When I drove the 740 every thing worked as it should. Very clean interior and exterior. The 740 had comfort seats with the lumbar support, just what I needed. I live in Houston and the other guy lives in Ft. Worth. Me met in Waco to make the trade. While I was driving home in my new to me car the air conditioner completely stops blowing. The indicator lights in the climate control panel are lit, just on air flow. After a while the blower comes on and blows cold air. I made the trade last Saturday and for the past few days the lights in the control panel flash randomly. It's a crap shoot if the blower works when I start the car. When the blower does work, it sounds like a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle wheel at first, but eventually blows quietly. I have searched the Internet for solutions. Please help. This is my new to me 2000 740i.

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Mine did this on and off for two years before it finally gave up the ghost. Anytime it had to sit in the heat for an extended period of time, the blower would not work for 5 minutes or so. A few times I could get it to kick on by hitting the dash area of the blower. Having said that, I never had the noise many report when the bearings are wearing out. My LED's flashed for 3-4 years before going dark. Never affected the controls other than I had to figure out by feel what the setting was on. I think you are looking at replacing your blower motor. Keep in mind the resistor is on the blower and is often the issue of a non working blower as well. Check the links at the top of this thread:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2003822-Blower-motor-General-HVAC-info
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mine did this on and off for two years before it finally gave up the ghost. Anytime it had to sit in the heat for an extended period of time, the blower would not work for 5 minutes or so. A few times I could get it to kick on by hitting the dash area of the blower. Having said that, I never had the noise many report when the bearings are wearing out. My LED's flashed for 3-4 years before going dark. Never affected the controls other than I had to figure out by feel what the setting was on. I think you are looking at replacing your blower motor. Keep in mind the resistor is on the blower and is often the issue of a non working blower as well. Check the links at the top of this thread:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2003822-Blower-motor-General-HVAC-info
My blower is very unpredictable. Sometimes it starts blowing as soon as I start the car. Other times I can drive several miles and it never blows. Do you think the problem lies more with the blower motor and resistors or the climate control unit? My work situation will be changing soon. Instead of a 7 mile commute to work I'll be driving 40 miles. Being in Houston, we won't see cooler weather until late in the year. :mad:
 

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If it's making noise, it's probably the bearings on the fan. It's possible you have something in the fresh air inlet hitting on the blades. Put the settings on fresh air, not recirculate, open the hood and push open the fresh air flaps. You will see where they are from the arms extending down from the hood that usually push them open. Make sure there is nothing down in there. Only seen that happen once with someone whose flap door was missing. Outside of that, if you have voltage going up on the wires, your going to have to remove the dash. Not a hard job, just time consuming.
 
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