[pconwell]

Okay, I'm in over my head just a little bit - nothing to worry about

I took my old front control arm bushing off yesterday, talk about a pain Anyway, the new bushing came in today and I'm ready to install them - but I have no idea which way is 'forwards' on the bushings.

There is an inner 'sleeve' that will pop out and the sleeve has a 'lip' on it. Does the lip need to go towards the front or the rear of the car?

Thanks.

 

[smolck]

This should help you out.

 

[pconwell]

Well, I figured it out. They will actually only go on one way... BUT

I guess I got a thread crossed or something. I got the driver side on, but the passenger side bolts will NOT go back in. I'm not going to force them, but every time they start, they either start going in all cockeyed, or they get 'stuck'.

Guess I'm going to have to get it towed to the shop because I don't want to force the bolts and completely 'f' it up.

 

[smolck]

Well, I figured it out. They will actually only go on one way... BUT

I guess I got a thread crossed or something. I got the driver side on, but the passenger side bolts will NOT go back in. I'm not going to force them, but every time they start, they either start going in all cockeyed, or they get 'stuck'.

Guess I'm going to have to get it towed to the shop because I don't want to force the bolts and completely 'f' it up.

Calm down. Run those bolts down without the CAB installed and make sure they go in properly. Assuming they do, then it is just a matter of alignment. Are you able to get the housing all the way down to the frame rail and the dowels inside the cab carrier?

 

[pconwell]

Calm down. Run those bolts down without the CAB installed and make sure they go in properly. Assuming they do, then it is just a matter of alignment. Are you able to get the housing all the way down to the frame rail and the dowels inside the cab carrier?

I had the housing all lined up so I stuck the bolts in, but they were giving a LOT of resistance. I probably tried to force it just a little too much to be honest, but I decided that was a bad idea to keep going, so I took the housing back off and tried the bolts by themselves.

The bolts would not go in, so I looked into the hole and saw that the first line of threads (not sure what the technical term is there) was kinda mangled - but it didn't look too bad. I thought that if I could get the bolts lined up and started, they might 'straighten' themselves out, but no luck.

So then I tried to carefully file the first little 'tooth' of the thread because that's all that looks mangled, but that didn't help either. I didn't want to get carried away, so I just quit.

 

[smolck]

I had the housing all lined up so I stuck the bolts in, but they were giving a LOT of resistance. I probably tried to force it just a little too much to be honest, but I decided that was a bad idea to keep going, so I took the housing back off and tried the bolts by themselves.

The bolts would not go in, so I looked into the hole and saw that the first line of threads (not sure what the technical term is there) was kinda mangled - but it didn't look too bad. I thought that if I could get the bolts lined up and started, they might 'straighten' themselves out, but no luck.

So then I tried to carefully file the first little 'tooth' of the thread because that's all that looks mangled, but that didn't help either. I didn't want to get carried away, so I just quit.

Find out the thread pitch (or just take the bolt with you to the hardware store) and get tap for it and chase the threads gently. Should fix the issue. Did you mangle both of the holes? Also, try different bolts.

 

[pconwell]

Find out the thread pitch (or just take the bolt with you to the hardware store) and get tap for it and chase the threads gently. Should fix the issue. Did you mangle both of the holes? Also, try different bolts.

Yeah, I mangled both. I think what happened was when I *thought* the housing was lined up, it was just a hair off and when I started running the bolt in, it got crossed up.

I thought about the tap idea, but I wasn't sure because if I started the tap wrong, wouldn't I just make it worse?

 

[smolck]

I thought about the tap idea, but I wasn't sure because if I started the tap wrong, wouldn't I just make it worse?

If you go slow and take your time, it isn't anything to worry about. That is what a shop is going to do anyways. And you aren't chasing the entire hole, just the first few threads.

 

[pconwell]

If you go slow and take your time, it isn't anything to worry about. That is what a shop is going to do anyways. And you aren't chasing the entire hole, just the first few threads.

Right, but what if I get the first few threads off? So the bolt goes in a little bit, but then it starts banging up against the 'right' threads?

Plus, sure - that's all the shop is going to do, but if *they* mess it up, *they* can fix it.

 

[Scottji]

Same thing happened to me. If you have a trusted shop close-by, bolt it up as good as you can get it (without forcing the cross-threaded bolt there), take it to the shop, and have them tap it. Cost $40 and about 15 mins at my local indy for them to put it on the lift, re-tap it, and tighten everything down. Guy said just the first thread or two was crossed, so it was easy for them to tap.

 

[pconwell]

Same thing happened to me. If you have a trusted shop close-by, bolt it up as good as you can get it (without forcing the cross-threaded bolt there), take it to the shop, and have them tap it. Cost $40 and about 15 mins at my local indy for them to put it on the lift, re-tap it, and tighten everything down. Guy said just the first thread or two was crossed, so it was easy for them to tap.

Yeah, I looked in the hole and it's only the first thread or two, as far as I can tell. There really isn't a 'bolt it up as good as you can' as I can't really get the bolts started - and I would really rather pay 50 something bucks to get it towed than god knows how much when the wheel decides to do a merry little dance around the control arm.

 

[GoForthFast]

You probably would have an easy time of 'chasing' the threads. I'd give it a try.
But if you've given up, maybe best not to try with the wrong attitude.
Let the pro do it and if you can watch, you'll see how easy it goes.

 

[pconwell]

You probably would have an easy time of 'chasing' the threads. I'd give it a try.
But if you've given up, maybe best not to try with the wrong attitude.
Let the pro do it and if you can watch, you'll see how easy it goes.

It's already been picked up and it's at the shop. I appreciate all the support though!

 

[pconwell]

Well, $354 dollars later, the passenger side bushing is safely installed - all is well again.

Thanks for the support and suggestions guy!

 

[smolck]

Well, $354 dollars later, the passenger side bushing is safely installed - all is well again.

Thanks for the support and suggestions guy!

What a freakin waste.

 

[pconwell]

What a freakin waste.

Whaaaat!? You make me sad

 

[smolck]

Whaaaat!? You make me sad

I just can't believe you had to blow $354 for ONE control arm bushing. It took them all of 20 seconds to chase those threads and tighten the bolts. You got hosed by a factor of 10.

 

[Scottji]

Yeah dude, find a new indy. As I said earlier, my guy put it on a lift, checked it out, re-tapped the threads, and tightened everything down so I was good to go. $40.

 

[pconwell]

I just can't believe you had to blow $354 for ONE control arm bushing. It took them all of 20 seconds to chase those threads and tighten the bolts. You got hosed by a factor of 10.

Ah, I see. Well, in fairness that was the cost for the tow, the repair, the install and an alignment.

 

[smolck]

Ah, I see. Well, in fairness that was the cost for the tow, the repair, the install and an alignment.

You dont need an alignment after just bushings.