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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. I just got my CPO 335i a few days ago. The computer is calling for 7k miles until the next oil change, but I'd like to do DIY inbetween changes. I'm just going to change the oil and not the filter.

Yesterday, I bought some mobil 1 0w-40 and cut some wood to fit inside the jacking points. I discovered my floor jack won't fit under the car, so I'll have to pull it up on some 2x4's or something.

Before I got to that though, I realized that once I got it jacked up, there didn't really seem to be a good secondary place to put the jack stand to lower the car on to. I looked for a front central jack point, but all I found was a huge plastic belly tray (I knew I had this- just figured there'd be a pass through to a jack point on a cross member. I did see one pass through with a bolt sticking out. Is that it?

It is ridicolous BMW didn't include ANY service instructions in a set of manuals the size of a bible!

So, how do I get this thing up on jack stands?

Also, is it absolutely necessary to change the drain plug washer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You could try Rhino ramps
I could, but since I already have a floor jack and jack stands I'd rather not. They're huge and I have no extra storage space in my garage (had to get rid of a lot of stuff to get the bimmer in there).
 

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It's been covered before, after searching I found some official-looking tech bullitens someone had posted. Of course, do at your own risk, I'm just repeating what others have said.

There's the 4 points along the sides of the car. A point in the front-center, and a position in the rear that you need to be real careful about using.

I also believe one of the side jack points (don't remember front/back) is strong enough to lift one entire side of the car.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Believe me- I searched like hell. The best I found was of an E46. It has a nice little rubber jack point front and center, but we just have the belly pan.
 

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gashlycrumb
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Believe me- I searched like hell. The best I found was of an E46. It has a nice little rubber jack point front and center, but we just have the belly pan.
Not all e46s have that, like mine for example. There's a spot on each side just to the inside of the rubber pad that I use to raise the car w/ the jack, then use the rubber jack pad for the stand. If that makes sense. . .
 

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Flying monkey herder
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yes, you need to replace the crush washer when you remove the plug.

most places include it with the filter set. filter, o rings, and crush washer
 

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of the side jack points (don't remember front/back) is strong enough to lift one entire side of the car.

Nick
I thought you could jack the car for the entire side on any of the jacking points ... are you sure it is limited to only 2 out of the 4 jacking points?
 

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Freedom isn't free!!
2018 Glacier Silver 340i M Sport
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Hi guys. I just got my CPO 335i a few days ago. The computer is calling for 7k miles until the next oil change, but I'd like to do DIY inbetween changes. I'm just going to change the oil and not the filter.
You really need to replace the filter, too. In fact, if I was going to do one or the other I'd replace the filter rather than the oil. The oil is more capable of lasting 15k miles (not suggesting that) than the filter. And the filter is too easy to replace not to do it.
 

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Yes, please!
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I jacked up my car in the front, and put it on jack stands on the front sides. There is a jack spot in the middle of the car between the front tires, then put the jack stands under the car in their appropriate places. I did this to see where my CDV was located.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You really need to replace the filter, too. In fact, if I was going to do one or the other I'd replace the filter rather than the oil. The oil is more capable of lasting 15k miles (not suggesting that) than the filter. And the filter is too easy to replace not to do it.
I figured the oil and filter (although less so the oil) are capable of lasting 15k miles. The reason to change is to get rid of all the impurities in the oil too small to filter- the stuff that makes the oil black. Also, because the turbos may lead to faster viscosity break down. Furthermore, lately I've been doing shorter trips in cold weather, which leads to more blowby and more impurities in the oil- yet again another reason to do the oil. The only thing that would make the filter age prematurely is if you lived in a particularly dusty environment, or had a part in your engine shedding an abnormal amount of metal.
 

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+1 TTUREDRAIDER

I think if you search you will find that there is evidence the oil outlasts the filter. And at $75 for 10 filter kits (from Tischer), it makes NO sense to replace the oil without the filter, since you get the crush washer with the filter kit.

The rear jack point is near the center of gravity - I only use that point when I swap to and from my winter setup. One way to go about it is to use the rear points, then put your jack stands up front.
 
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