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Took my car into the shop and they quoted me around 700 to fix that problem. Unforntually I don’t have 700 dollars so I’m thinking I should just fix it myself at home. I have plenty of tools and a nice spot in my garage to work on it. Does that sound like a good idea or is it recommended that I just take it to a mechanic. Also if anyone knows a solid place to acquire the parts needed for the job I’d love to hear one. Thanks y’all!


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There is plenty of DIY info for this job so if you are comfortable with digging under the hood, should be no issue. Search on YouTube. If the 50'skid has a video on that job, I'd go with that one. Make sure you do the dipstick tube as well.

Buy the part from one of the advertisers on here rather than local auto part store. I would stick to OE or OEM for this part and many others... I like FCPEuro.com because it is easy to determine OE and OEM from the rest, and there is that lifetime warranty for cars that I intend to keep a long time.
 

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Look up the parts (valve, hoses, o-ring for dipstick, profile gasket for throttle body) on RealOEM.com. Get only BMW part at least for at least the valve. I find getbmwparts.com has really good prices for genuine BMW parts. A new design dipstick tube is over a hundred dollars, the most expensive part associated with the CCV, but you can thoroughly clean out the one on the car instead of replacing it. You will need to decide whether to use "winter" versions of valve and hoses, which have insulation covering them. Some say the insulation doesn't help with CCV cold weather problems and it makes assembly more challenging in the tight space under the intake manifold.
 

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I'd look at bavauto.com and 50's kid's video . That is the first real job I ever did on a car. Thank God for YouTube.

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Keeping it surreal
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You also have another alternative, which is to do away with the CVV altogether, and replace it with a catch can setup. Read the Sticky Threads, you`ll see a dedicated discussion on the subject. :thumbup:
 

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The really only hard part if installing a CCV is attaching the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the CCV body. Why? The connector requires a 90* rotation if the CCV body relative to the hose. All other connections are snap connections.
 

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So my CCV seemed to fail on my 325xi a week after I bought it and after some reading it looks like it is a common failure on these cars. I live in NH and it can get really cold up here. I decided to just get rid of the CCV and go the catch can route. My catch can just arrived today and I'm waiting for fittings to come tomorrow.
 

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Keeping it surreal
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So my CCV seemed to fail on my 325xi a week after I bought it and after some reading it looks like it is a common failure on these cars. I live in NH and it can get really cold up here. I decided to just get rid of the CCV and go the catch can route. My catch can just arrived today and I'm waiting for fittings to come tomorrow.
It`s a bit more than "common", my friend....more like "pre-ordained". It`s not a matter of IF it`s gonna fail, it`s more a matter of WHEN....they ALL fail eventually. Quite a few folks from this forum have converted over to the catch-can system with good results.
We have a Sticky Thread which addresses the issue.
Good luck ! :thumbup:
 

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It`s a bit more than "common", my friend....more like "pre-ordained". It`s not a matter of IF it`s gonna fail, it`s more a matter of WHEN....they ALL fail eventually. Quite a few folks from this forum have converted over to the catch-can system with good results.
We have a Sticky Thread which addresses the issue.
Good luck ! <img src="http://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumbs Up" class="inlineimg" />
Yeah seems like it makes much more sense to just go catch can route. Will keep you all updated. It seems simple enough to do! Looks like i***8217;ll be doing it the ***8220;destructive***8221; way per the 50skid video and leave the oil separator in lol.
 

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Also OP, I went ahead and bought a catch can from Amazon for like $23 and with hoses and fitting it will be about $60 give or take. Sounds much better than $700 lol.

Sorry for the double post btw, I can***8217;t seem to find the ***8220;edit***8221; function on my phone
 

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The catch can is a good solution. I installed one on my old 2001 330Ci. I put the can in the drug bin (2001 E46s have the ABS unit in the drug bin). I initially used ribbed pvc hoses but found that the high vacuum hose (runs from the intake to the catch can via a PCV valve would collapse a bit when the engine compartment got hot. Bought some high vacuum, high temperature hose.

The following may be considered heresy!

We have to remember that the root cause of the oil burning in the 3 liter M54 engine (officially called the M54B30 engine) is, IMHO, the design of the PISTON!

Let me explain. A piston has 3 rings:
- compression ring
- another compression ring
- oil control ring

These rings sit in groves in the piston. The grove in which the oil control ring sits has numerous oil drain holes. The idea is that the oil control ring scrapes oil from the cylinder wall and the oil is supposed to drain back into the crankcase via the holes. Those holes, it appears, tend to become clogged with oil “remnants,” thus reducing the oil drain back rate. How do I know this? I’ve seen a couple of threads in which the owner is rebuilding an M54B30 engine. Guess what? The oil drain holes are clogged with carbon! That carbon is rock hard (thing diamonds). Basically, the owner has 2 choices: remove the carbon from the oil drain holes or replace the piston.

So why does the 02pilot modification (adds a vacuum line that runs from the CCV body to a port at the back of the cylinder head) work. Added vacuum seems to reduce oil burning. The GM Top End Cleaner likely dissolves some of the carbon in the oil drain holes.

JMVHO. YMMV
 

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For $700.00 I Highly recommend you take it to the Dealer....
You will get free coffee and a brand new loaner car while someone else messes with this absolute nightmare.
If you don't have $700.00, suggest you just put up with the high oil consumption and throw $20 a Week or Month into a jar until you do.

I just did this DIY using this Forum and a Video Tutorial listed below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btggLSedkxc

I ordered a complete CCV kit from Germany, including all required 'O' Rings and hoses and set to work.

Note: I am on Day 4 of this DIY without a running car....

1) Dissasembly .... Fairly routine, plan on a couple of hours if you do this right and label your connectors.
Issue in this process was removal of the dipstick, took me over half an hour.

2) Assembly...Fairly routine, plan on about 3 hours. It is fiddly work to be sure but the Video tutorial is excellent.
Issue in this process was re-installing the dipstick, this took me an additional three hours and two 'O' rings.

Car turns over but will not start.....

Day 2..

Repeated Steps 1) and 2), removed everything, including Throttle Body, Idle Air control, Purge Valve etc, cleaned and checked all connectors in accordance with wiring and instruction guides on this site.
Issue in this process is it will take you another 3-4 Hours to repeat all steps and trouble-shoot.
All connectors were correct, however, in order to cover all bases I followed help guides for the apparently large amount of people who do this DIY and cannot get their car to run afterwords.

Issue is possible connector reversal, causing a 30 Amp fuse to blow in the ECM Box.
Removed ECM Box cover ( Black cover in front of the Brake booster in the engine compartment just forward of the Driver. ) Small black 5 Fuse box is under there, slide off lid and check fuses.
All mine were good....

Next step.
Burn 2-3 hours of your time cruising the forums and websites trying to find an answer.

Only answer was something called: " Bore Wash " where apparently a ' cold start ' and short run will, due to rich mixtures, wash the oil of your cylinder walls resulting in compression loss and a ' no start ' scenario...

As I drove my car into the Garage for this DIY, and this is the first time it has not started, I followed the Bore wash DIY.
Remove all Coil-Pax and plugs and Fuel Pump Relay or Fuse. Squirt 10cc of fresh engine oil into your cylinders, crank for 20 secs or so to film oil over your cylinders and restore compresssion.
Re-assemble everything, coil pax and plugs, and with a fully charged battery, start the car.

Result ? Absolutely nothing, car turns over but will not run, sounds like only one cylinder is firing, and extremely weakly.

So day 4 Of the DIY........with a non running car.

2002 BMW 330i // Coil Pax, plugs and battery less than a year old..

Any Ideas ???
 

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The only thing I can think of is you forgot a plug connection or you bumped or nicked another wire somewhere. Try Reseat all your electrical connections
 

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Day 5 of this DIY.

Removed everything again, took 3 hours, checked all connectors on the harness including ones not involved in this DIY, Crankshaft Position Sensor for example.
Pulled the Splash-guard and Skid-plate and spent another hour underneath checking all harness wiring....Everything is as it should be.
Re-cleaned and re-seated all connectors and re-assembled everything, took 2 hours.. Spent some extra time checking every fuse in the Glove-box fuse-bay and all fuses in the ECM Box, all OK.
Same issue.

Car turns over on a fully charged battery but will not run. Going to order a Laptop based code reader tonight, they are inexpensive on Amazon and if a code dump doesn't help I will have this POS towed to the dealer and that will be the last DIY I do on an old car.

Owned this car for 12 Years, it is on the second alternator, it is on the 2nd fuel pump and filter, on the 3rd water pump, on the second expansion tank, I completely rebuilt the suspension using Myerle Parts, it is on the 3rd set of NGK plugs and it is on the second set of Coil Packs. I cannot tell you how many window regulators I have replaced.

All maintenance has been done by me with zero issue till now but I will report back on what the final finding is so that the OP can make an informed choice on this DIY.
My humble opinion is that this job is about as fun as a wire brush across the hemorrhoids.

Cheers.

Marc.
 

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When I did my catch can, I tackled a slew of items along with it, namely, the VANOS, the belts, the pulleys, tensioners, water pump, expansion tank, electrical fan conversion, OFHG, valve cover gasket, plugs, DISA and the PCV itself. It took me a while because I had spare cars and only worked on it whenever I had time. One thing I dreaded after I took everything off was mixing up the connectors or missing a connector because I didn't label them. Luckily I got every back together successfully. Like you, Marc, my car didn't start up right away after sitting for a long time on the first try. I recalled having to crank it for a "long" time on the second try before it caught on and ran. I drove the car all summer with the catch can until the start of winter where I got a MEL and a check of the catch can setup revealed I had mayo all the way up the air intake distributor. I just got rid of the CC setup and now back to the PCV but the valve itself is not where BMW designed it to be. I placed the valve on the exhaust side of the engine to get it heat up faster. Just took the car out today for the first time since November and everything seems to be good. Hopefully that should take care of my mayo problem for good. So just want to let you know that if your CC setup does not work then you can try something like mine (after you could get your car started).
 

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meinbills

Take a bow Sir !

I ordered a BMW Multiscanner, C310+ off Amazon, just arrived today. Checked codes, DTCs set as expected for DISA, IAC, TB, CPS, CPS, cleared codes tried to start the car...

Nothing, turns over, would not start...Remembered your advice to keep cranking.

Cranked the Pi$$ out of it!! 5 starts total with each crank about 10 seconds, varying pedal positions, finally ran like crap on crank 4, fired right up on crank 5 !!!

So for the original OP, It is still a royal PITA DIY, but label all connectors, don't doubt yourself and when she doesn't start, crank the hell out of it on a fully charged battery and all will be well.
( Thus saving you at least 2 Days of work and three more dissasembly reassembies and much worry and swearing and so forth. )

I am still of the opinion it would have been worth the money for the dealership to do it. But my ham-fisted mechanicking not-withstanding and other than the 3 plus hours messing with the dipstick, this DIY is possible in a full day.

Thanks to everyone that replied particularly meinbills from the frozen North. Anyone else wanting to pursue this DIY hit me up anytime, I'll talk you through it from my armchair holding a cool beer.

Marc.
 

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Awesome Marc. Glad it worked for you. That long cranking moment wasn't the first instance I had to do to get it going. I still remember the first time when I had the same symptom (after parking it for awhile), my heart was sinking because back then I was afraid to mess around with the "technologically advanced" bimmer. So I thought what do I get to lose so I cranked and pumped the pedal like you said. After one or two times, you could feel the car was catching on so I kept going and eventually got it running. Never thought I would do that to a fuel injected car.

Oh btw, I think I might need to refresh my suspension in the near future (front/rear) so if you could recall what you did and the part list, that would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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