I can't seem to catch a break!!!
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Wait...is it so hot that the caliper is glowing??? You sir don't need to catch a break, you need to catch a new BRAKE!
No doubt!! Crazy... With luck like I'm having I'm headed to a casino!!
As for missing posts... You got me. I didn't delete anything 😂
Were pins lubricated when pads were changed? Those ATE calipers have dry pins.No doubt!! Crazy... With luck like I'm having I'm headed to a casino!!
As for missing posts... You got me. I didn't delete anything
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I didn't lube them, but I did take the time to scotchbrite them clean and smooth....shrug
I did order a new brake line as well as a new caliper... In case this one is failing and creating a one way valve as I have read about...
I would say you only need pins. Scotchbrite attracted dirt.
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Ok so with that response I'm open to best ways to clean them? Cuz they were not pretty... What's a best practice here?
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Sometimes it’s not just the pins. Rust builds up behind the stainless shims/guides and because rust expands, it pushes the shims together preventing pad release.
Remove the caliper bracket, hit the shim seats with a wire wheel or cutting disk to bring the surface back to spec, hit it with acid, apply Ford nickel antiseize (to prevent oxidiatjon) and reinstall the shims. This isn’t to say pin work isn’t necessary, but 9 times out of 10 I’ve found “seized” calipers to be a shim issue, not a pin issue.
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Remove the caliper bracket, hit the shim seats with a wire wheel or cutting disk to bring the surface back to spec, hit it with acid, apply Ford nickel antiseize (to prevent oxidiatjon) and reinstall the shims. This isn’t to say pin work isn’t necessary, but 9 times out of 10 I’ve found “seized” calipers to be a shim issue, not a pin issue.
Via the interwebs
What he said!
I personally never had seized caliper so didn’t deal with that issue. My suspicion was that you scotchbrite it. Also, if there is a lot of dirt, check rubber caps!
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I THINK I agree on buying two at once. OTOH, I did just that, and only changed one, and still have the other "used" bulb, in the glove box, just in case I need a spare.
CAUTION on buying a real Phillips Osram --- Last time I worked REALLY hard on trying to find a genuine bulb. At least at that time 80% of the bulbs sold on Amazon, were COUNTERFEIT! (Yeah, all the "decently priced bulbs".) The problem is, you can't easily detect if they are fake or not. And, when they are fake, there are several problems:
Good luck. Seems that eventually, there should be great bulbs that aren't the name brand. But, they also must be fairly had to make!
CAUTION on buying a real Phillips Osram --- Last time I worked REALLY hard on trying to find a genuine bulb. At least at that time 80% of the bulbs sold on Amazon, were COUNTERFEIT! (Yeah, all the "decently priced bulbs".) The problem is, you can't easily detect if they are fake or not. And, when they are fake, there are several problems:
- It won't last nearly as long as it should -- (5-10,000 miles, vs 100,000)
- The color might be way off
- The UV COATING is NOT ADEQUATE, and if it is not, the UV will DESTROY a $5,000 light assembly!
Good luck. Seems that eventually, there should be great bulbs that aren't the name brand. But, they also must be fairly had to make!
Philips and Osram both should come with scan code to check authenticity.
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site is already close by demand of BMW
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