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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm seriously looking for an e36. I also have serious plans to turbo charge it. Would a 95 be better then a 98? I know the 98 has a 3.2L instead of the 3.0, so wouldnt it be faster turbo'd then a 95?

I read the sticky, but if i got an m3 with over 100k miles and turbocharged it, would there be any problems?
 

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Dunno about the turbo, but I too always wanted an E36 M3 dating back to 1995, and I just picked one up last week. I LOVE IT!!!
:D

I've driven several E46 M3's. Not to start any beefs, but I think that I prefer the drive of the E36...

:eek:
 

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M Mad
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I own both E46 M3 and E36 M3, and both are great fun to dirve, but different.

If you plan on turbo, contact turbo kit manufacurers and talk to THEM about which works best.

How your state does emissions may also make a difference. In most of MD you cannot convert a OBD II car to OBD I since they read the OBD II comuter info for emissions checking.
 

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M Mad
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If I could only have one, it would be the E46 M3. Overall a better compromise all around car.

BTW the LTW is much more fun to drive than a standard E36 M3. Power and lightness is fun. :)
 

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Pinecone said:
If I could only have one, it would be the E46 M3. Overall a better compromise all around car.

BTW the LTW is much more fun to drive than a standard E36 M3. Power and lightness is fun. :)
I will get a e46 m3 soon, but I just don't think I can part with the e36.

I bet the LTW is more fun to drive. Just curious how many miles on the LTW?

:D :D
 

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M Mad
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Mine has about 60K. A driver. BOUght originally by a some lady in CA who drove it as a daily driver up to some 3 years ago. Bought by a guy locally, who brought it east, and set it up for AutoX, but saved ALL the stock parts.

When he got it, it did not have the splitter Motorsport strut brace or the special oil pan. He added the proper strut brace and splitter. I found an oil pan, which I haven't installed yet.

Current setup is Konis all around (DA in back), H&R springs, UUC sways, UUC tranny mount (Red with TME), UUC clutch stop, UUC Evo II shifter. RTAB reinforcements, 96 strut hats, swapped, Schroth 4 point bolt in (red). I added a Borla cat back, he had a UUC on it, but sold it separately. Conforti chip (still have stock also). I think that is the list. :)

Future plans include the Stage II intake kit, header, GC front sway, 3.38 diff, maybe a few other things, but always keeping it easy to go back to stock. :)
 

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M Mad
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More power. OBD1 makes a bit more power, and reacts better to typical oblt on parts, like intakes.

Our 2000 M Roadster is OBD2. Intake kit gives maybe 15 HP with CAI, chip, etc. With cams, gives about 55 HP boost.

Our 1995 E36 M3 is OBD1 and the intake kit gives some 40 HP. WIth cams gives some 55 HP boost.

So if youare going all out, there isn't as big a difference, but for less, you get more.

One BIG CAVEAT, if you state does code reading as part of emissions testing, you cannot get a car that came with OBD2 and coverted to OBD1 to pass.
 

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Pinecone said:
If I could only have one, it would be the E46 M3. Overall a better compromise all around car.
And of course I'd say just the opposite. I think the E36 is a much better all-around car.

But my priorities are probably a little skewed.

To the original poster, it sounds like what you want to do is buy a high mile M3 (low cost) and turbo it. I wouldn't recommend it. If you buy a cheap 100k mile M3, invariably it's going to need a bunch of TLC to get it into the condition you'd want it in if you were going to turbo it (i.e. a new radiator, water pump, thermo, trailing arm bushings, control arms, etc) unless it's been kept very up to date with maintenance.

Do a search for "Scho" on bimmerforums.com. He's been trying to sell a late model E36 M3 with a turbo setup for some time. He's asking $26k, which sounds like a REAL good price given how much he's tweaked it to get it reliable and powerful.

JV
 
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