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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen the "Increased Battery Discharge" warning a few times over the last couple of months (I drive this car infrequently). Over the weekend (Saturday) I drove it for some errands. On the second stop, I waited in the car while spouse ran into store. I shut off car because it was going to be more than a couple minutes, but left the radio on. No other accessories - windows were open. After about 10 minutes, tried to start and it would not crank enough to turn over. So we locked it and walked home and came back an hour later to jump start it. I'm pretty sure that it started without the jump since it turned over immediately and I did not think I had a good ground on the cables. Drove home, parked. On Sunday and again today, I tried to start it and it started right up, although today I got the "Increased Battery Discharge" again.

Battery is about 4.5 years old (came with the car when I bought it CPO). I'm pretty sure they had replaced the battery right before I bought it. Am I just due for a new battery or is it something else?

More questions:

- what is the red thing on top of the battery?
- can someone explain "coding the battery"? If I replace with the same one do I need to do this or have it done?
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Increased Battery Discharge is a problem with your car***8217;s electrical system, not the battery. Yes, an ill treated four year old battery is ready for replacement. The red plastic stuff on top of the battery at the positive pole is a number of things, a fuse block, the battery safety terminal, the Intelligent Battery Sensor. The IBS tells the ECU details about the battery condition so that the ECU may properly charge the battery. Registering the battery tells the ECU that the battery is new among quite a few other things.
 

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Coding a new battery is important if you listen to the stories on the forums. It involves telling the "smart" alternator that the battery is new so it charges it appropriately. Old batteries needed to be charged more often and more aggressively which can lead to problems with a new one. Also, less frequent charging puts less of a drag on the engine. I coded my new battery with Carly dongle on IBD II port and annual $60 subscription. Also fun for playing around with settings. Some parts stores like Pep Boys may also be able to code it for you.
 

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I had been having the same problem with my 2012 128i. I purchased a code reader to re set the computer and it told me that the battery was the original. (7 years old). I purchased a replacement battery for $159 from Autozone. The battery is slightly larger and 1000 CCA instead of the 900 that was standard. Installation was no problem and warning is gone.
The problem I am having is registering the new battery. I have the Autophix 7810 scanner, and it will not allow me to register a non BMW battery.
Does any one out there know what scan tool should I get to do this?? I would rather not use the I phone apps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks to all for the replies. I assume the Autozone battery is vented? (Pretty sure when I looked last week it was but pics didn't show it.) And no issues securing it?

I just bought a Carly Gen II WiFi and will use that to register the new battery (once I buy it and the subscription). Looking through my docs, the CPO process does not show a battery replacement so mine is likely 7.5 years old.

Wondering if the BMW battery ($199) is worth the extra $40 since it lasted over 7 years. I've never had a replacement battery last over 4 years.
 

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No problems mounting it as BMW provided the threaded boss in 3 different positions for the longer battery. This battery that I purchased has the same vent location so it is a direct replacement. It is also made in Germany! I called my local BMW dealer, and they will do the re-set for $80.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
$80 looks like a good deal. My local dealer wanted $220 and a local independent shop wanted $250. Carly ended up cheaper for me and it looks like about 5 minutes from start to finish.
 

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I did most of the work. They are just plugging in a OBD tool. $220 for just coding is really crazy. I would spring for the BMW battery for 40 bucks more.:thumbup: I just wanted to pop in a battery before I got stuck somewhere. My local auto store had it in stock. They also had a cheaper battery for 129.
 

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where da clutch at ?
BMW 128i Convertible E88 N52B Executive Package
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Hi,

So your getting up to the "need to replace battery" time, 5 years and it's borrowed time.

One thing to note, BMW's have a standby time, that is, when you start your car and switch off, it stays in a standby mode for around 20-30 minutes, so there is a marked power drain.

I hate shuffling cars off our drive due to this, if your not driving your car for at least 30minutes, then the battery is not getting charged back up.

I pull codes so can tell on mine what the battery is doing, every now and again, I put mine on a trickle charger (BMW official one) and that seems to do the trick.

Without having a code reader it's difficult to say, but form what your describing, short runs, with car going into standby mode and an "older" battery is the problem.

I've seen the "Increased Battery Discharge" warning a few times over the last couple of months (I drive this car infrequently). Over the weekend (Saturday) I drove it for some errands. On the second stop, I waited in the car while spouse ran into store. I shut off car because it was going to be more than a couple minutes, but left the radio on. No other accessories - windows were open. After about 10 minutes, tried to start and it would not crank enough to turn over. So we locked it and walked home and came back an hour later to jump start it. I'm pretty sure that it started without the jump since it turned over immediately and I did not think I had a good ground on the cables. Drove home, parked. On Sunday and again today, I tried to start it and it started right up, although today I got the "Increased Battery Discharge" again.

Battery is about 4.5 years old (came with the car when I bought it CPO). I'm pretty sure they had replaced the battery right before I bought it. Am I just due for a new battery or is it something else?

More questions:

- what is the red thing on top of the battery?
- can someone explain "coding the battery"? If I replace with the same one do I need to do this or have it done?
 

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where da clutch at ?
BMW 128i Convertible E88 N52B Executive Package
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2,782 Posts
sorry a bit more

1> Try charging the battery
2> Red thing on top of the battery is scary, but it's a kind a of harness, (there are youtube video's which show you how to remove, (look up 135i or 128i videos)
3> Gotta code a replacement for sure
4> replace battery lol

Drove home, parked. On Sunday and again today, I tried to start it and it started right up, although today I got the "Increased Battery Discharge" again.

Battery is about 4.5 years old (came with the car when I bought it CPO). I'm pretty sure they had replaced the battery right before I bought it. Am I just due for a new battery or is it something else?

More questions:

- what is the red thing on top of the battery?
- can someone explain "coding the battery"? If I replace with the same one do I need to do this or have it done?
 

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Hi Jaye, not sure what year your car is. I just removed the ground from the battery, then disconnected both red cables from where they bolt to the chassis lugs. Then remove the + terminal at the battery. I capped of the ground on the battery and the positive to be safe. Swing the whole "Red thing" out of the way. Now you can pull out the old batt and put in new one. I didn't even loose my radio pre sets. I would do registration coding. I didnt get to it yet...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I bought a Duralast Gold H6-DLG at Autozone and installed it today - working fine, pretty simple install. My question is what value to use for the capacity in Carly.

Old battery was a BMW 61 21 2 353 808, 640 CCA @ 0degF, 80 Amp Hour @20Hr

The specs I could find on the new one are 730 CCA (910 CA) and 115 reserve capacity (min).

Should I use 115 in the Carly app? I can't remember what options it gave me when I looked at it (and cancelled).
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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RC is not capacity AH. That***8217;s what you need to approximate.

RC, CCA, CA, are all obsolescent specifications not applicable to your BMW. You have BIGGER problems if those obsolescent limitations become significant.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Pulled the IBS out of the way and the info strip on the battery only lists RC, CC and CCA. Some advice on how to approximate AH would be useful.
 

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where da clutch at ?
BMW 128i Convertible E88 N52B Executive Package
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2,782 Posts
you can't is the simple answer because the two different figures show two different things.

The Cold Cranking Amps, (CCA), lets you know how much power a battery provides over a short period of time.
Amp Hours, (AH), is how long the battery should be able to provide power at a certain rate. i.e continuos power

Like trying to ask, if I weight 80kg how can I convert that to work out my height

Doug will correct me if I'm wrong
 

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where da clutch at ?
BMW 128i Convertible E88 N52B Executive Package
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2,782 Posts
Yahtzee

found the info you need

Duralast Gold Battery - H6-DLG , 600 (EN) Cold cranking Amps (950 cranking Amps), 72AH reserve minutes.

72Ah
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Jaye. I returned it earlier today and will go with one from the dealer tomorrow. (Found same thread based on your post. Guessing 72AH is not a good replacement for an 80AH battery...)
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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One can't be too thin, too rich, have too much memory, or too much battery capacity. It is the only battery parameter specification that matters in a modern car. And it is correlated with service life. With an average State of Charge about 70% the AGM battery cycle life is about 1,000 full discharge-recharge cycles. With an average State of Charge of 100% your unused battery will last about forever. With an average State of Charge of 0% your battery is dead and useless. BatteryFAQ.org calls SoC 0.7 the "sweet spot".

Mine is 105 AH, the highest capacity battery available that will fit in the battery hole. I charge it weekly with a CTEK 4.3 MUS for the highest average SoC that I can practically manage.

I charged this afternoon. I also looked over the engine, coolant level, PS fluid level, belt condition, and refilled the WW reservoir. Interestingly, the garage is about 30°F while the environment is about 5°F. I poured the last of a gallon of ethanol into the reservoir and filled it to the brim with distilled water. The water froze to slush in the fill pipe.
 

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where da clutch at ?
BMW 128i Convertible E88 N52B Executive Package
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2,782 Posts
sounds like a plan :)

Thanks Jaye. I returned it earlier today and will go with one from the dealer tomorrow. (Found same thread based on your post. Guessing 72AH is not a good replacement for an 80AH battery...)
 
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