Installed my TMEs today.
In addition to changing the oil (man, 7 quarts takes a LONG time to drain!) I decided to install the UUC Tranny Mount Enforcers that arrived in the mail today. Here are some installation notes and driving impressions.
Installation: Very straightforward. Unless you're a stick figure, Rhino Ramps are going to be way too low to do this comfortably. Stick with jackstands. The directions are easy to follow, but I got held up with the upper nut on one of the bushings - it was slightly rusted and took a LOT of effort to break loose. I ended up using a long screwdriver for leverage against the combo wrench. BTW, on my '99 M3, all of the nuts down there were 13mm. You'll need a ratchet with a moderate (3" or so) extension and a combination wrench to do this easily. On one side, the heat shield from the exhaust covered the crossmember bolts. The shield is very soft and can easily be bent out of the way; just remember to bend it back when you're done. Once I took care of that #@$!! cross brace, total installation time was maybe half an hour.
Driving Impressions: Wow, what a difference! I instantly felt more confident with all of my shifts. The lever just slides right into gear now, no more guesswork or rubbery feel. There is no vibration at all inside the car, but there is a little more noise. I can hear the transmission more clearly now. However, I didn't notice anything until I turned off the radio and climate control. A few WOT runs (while looking around nervously for cops in the middle of the night) really made the TMEs shine - upshifts happened quickly and surely. I can see how this product would help to prevent accidental overrevs, but I don't consider that to be the primary benefit of this mod. This should work very well with my short shift kit, whenever I decide to install it.
Overall, it was money well spent. It really does live up to UUC's claims and I can't wait to really wring it out in the next few days and at an autocross.
Installation: Very straightforward. Unless you're a stick figure, Rhino Ramps are going to be way too low to do this comfortably. Stick with jackstands. The directions are easy to follow, but I got held up with the upper nut on one of the bushings - it was slightly rusted and took a LOT of effort to break loose. I ended up using a long screwdriver for leverage against the combo wrench. BTW, on my '99 M3, all of the nuts down there were 13mm. You'll need a ratchet with a moderate (3" or so) extension and a combination wrench to do this easily. On one side, the heat shield from the exhaust covered the crossmember bolts. The shield is very soft and can easily be bent out of the way; just remember to bend it back when you're done. Once I took care of that #@$!! cross brace, total installation time was maybe half an hour.
Driving Impressions: Wow, what a difference! I instantly felt more confident with all of my shifts. The lever just slides right into gear now, no more guesswork or rubbery feel. There is no vibration at all inside the car, but there is a little more noise. I can hear the transmission more clearly now. However, I didn't notice anything until I turned off the radio and climate control. A few WOT runs (while looking around nervously for cops in the middle of the night) really made the TMEs shine - upshifts happened quickly and surely. I can see how this product would help to prevent accidental overrevs, but I don't consider that to be the primary benefit of this mod. This should work very well with my short shift kit, whenever I decide to install it.
Overall, it was money well spent. It really does live up to UUC's claims and I can't wait to really wring it out in the next few days and at an autocross.
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Got any pictures? I may be helping a friend do his TME in a few weeks and would love to have some idea how much is involved.
Nope, no pictures. My hands were far too greasy for me to break out the digicam. However, I do plan to get under there again to check on everything, possibly tonight. I'll snap some photos at that time.
Overall it was a very easy install. The directions that came with the kit are clear, although pictures certainly would help. Don't worry - once you get under there it's pretty obvious.
Overall it was a very easy install. The directions that came with the kit are clear, although pictures certainly would help. Don't worry - once you get under there it's pretty obvious.
Thanks. Maybe when I HELP I'll take the pictures and my friend (You hear that Raffi?!) will do the work.
Jetfire said:
I'm planning to get them myself. I ordered the Clutch bushings...month backorder! :thumbdwn:
G
Hey, I'll send you mine in exchange for you posting a detailed DIY. I can always get another set later. As it is, they are never going to get installed.
in_d_haus said:
wimp
TD said:
G
Grrr...
Um, this one's not that simple, although I am far from being a master hack mechanic.
Yes, I am intimidated. Look into the install process and, honestly, tell me it's not intimidating.
Um, this one's not that simple, although I am far from being a master hack mechanic.
Yes, I am intimidated. Look into the install process and, honestly, tell me it's not intimidating.
Jetfire said:
Just f'in with ya. To be honest, the procedure seems relatively straightforward but hard to visualize without actually staring at the assembly. There is one line in the instructions that does scare me:
TD said:
Other than that, it sounds like it entails a couple of hours spent bending in yoga-like positions to get to the clutch pedal. Not fun, but probably not lethal. If you want help, I'm busy for the next two weekends but there should be some time after that.
:lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
The HACK said:
TME Pictures
As promised, here are two pics of my TME install.
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This shot is from underneath the car (duh). You can see the ramps supporting my front wheels. You can see the transmission cross brace just in front of the cat. The two red things are the TMEs, which are bolted to the brace.
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I took this picture lying on my back underneath the car, with my feet sticking out the front of the car. You can see my guibo towards the top of the pic (which is closer to the back of the car). On the right side, you can make out the nut that attaches the bottom of the UUC bushing to the brace. The metal cap is the enforcer, which slips onto that end of the bushing with a little lubrication. You can also see part of the notch on the transmission to which the top of the TME is bolted. In stock form, the bushings are black and hourglass-like in shape.
The install procedure goes something like this: Remove top nuts from stock bushings, unbolt cross brace, remove bottom nuts from stock bushings, attach UUC bushings, slide enforcers onto bushings, slip brace into place, bolt the brace into place, tighten the nuts onto the top ends of the TMEs. All done. And I take back what I said about ramps - my Rhino ramps were just barely tall enough for me to slide under there.
As promised, here are two pics of my TME install.
This shot is from underneath the car (duh). You can see the ramps supporting my front wheels. You can see the transmission cross brace just in front of the cat. The two red things are the TMEs, which are bolted to the brace.
I took this picture lying on my back underneath the car, with my feet sticking out the front of the car. You can see my guibo towards the top of the pic (which is closer to the back of the car). On the right side, you can make out the nut that attaches the bottom of the UUC bushing to the brace. The metal cap is the enforcer, which slips onto that end of the bushing with a little lubrication. You can also see part of the notch on the transmission to which the top of the TME is bolted. In stock form, the bushings are black and hourglass-like in shape.
The install procedure goes something like this: Remove top nuts from stock bushings, unbolt cross brace, remove bottom nuts from stock bushings, attach UUC bushings, slide enforcers onto bushings, slip brace into place, bolt the brace into place, tighten the nuts onto the top ends of the TMEs. All done. And I take back what I said about ramps - my Rhino ramps were just barely tall enough for me to slide under there.
BTW, I took a closer look at my stock bushings today. They seem to be in decent shape after 20,000 miles - no cracks or anything. They are, however, quite soft. I can easily squeeze them with my hand.
G
That doesn't look bad.
BTW, you REALLY need the X-brace, especially if you're going to be autox-ing. It makes a HUGE difference and is one about $115 with all the needed hardware.
Look here- http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/e36_xbrace.htm
BTW, you REALLY need the X-brace, especially if you're going to be autox-ing. It makes a HUGE difference and is one about $115 with all the needed hardware.
Look here- http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/e36_xbrace.htm
UUC says this about the X Brace
How do they expect people to drive their E36s? They're not go anywhere 4x4 monster trucks or anything. Seems like if you're going to be driving over curbs, protecting the oil pan would only be one of many worries.
I do need the X-brace but I won't buy or install it for a little while. I intend to stay in the SCCA stock category for my learning period, and while no one would ever think to check for it I still want to be a fair competitor. Bushing upgrades are allowed, so I'll look into those.
Holden said:
G
I have yet to autox with the SCCA but I was unaware that an X-brace would change your classification. Sways, sure. But X-brace?
Jetfire said:
The X Brace would probably put your M3s into BSP. FWIW, the BSP times and the BS times from first to worse are usually very similar. Generally, BSP has fewer entries as well.
Putting on a larger front sway won't take you out of stock.
Putting on a larger front sway won't take you out of stock.
Holden said:
I don't have the URL for the class rules handy, but they're pretty easily found on the web. I know you can get there from the www.autocrossers.org site. Ah, here's the link:
http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/
Anyway, it really takes very little to take you out of stock and into street prepared. You can do anything you want with the front sway bar, but the rear must remain stock. You can't update or backdate your car's options, and you can't install additional bracing like STBs or X-braces. You actually can't install a short shifter either, although that typically makes no difference in one's times. You are allowed any kind of cat back exhaust, but IIRC intakes are not permitted. You *can* replace your shocks with adjustable units. I plan to buy SA Konis when it's time to replace the stock units. Springs, of course, must remain stock.
BSP is not a large class around here, but you'd be up against modded E36 M3s, C4 Corvettes, and the like. And since Street Prepared allows you to do several suspension and performance mods (like coilovers and brakes), you're going to find yourself spending a lot of money to be competitive. I hope to at least become competitive in BS before going crazy with the mods.
http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/
Anyway, it really takes very little to take you out of stock and into street prepared. You can do anything you want with the front sway bar, but the rear must remain stock. You can't update or backdate your car's options, and you can't install additional bracing like STBs or X-braces. You actually can't install a short shifter either, although that typically makes no difference in one's times. You are allowed any kind of cat back exhaust, but IIRC intakes are not permitted. You *can* replace your shocks with adjustable units. I plan to buy SA Konis when it's time to replace the stock units. Springs, of course, must remain stock.
BSP is not a large class around here, but you'd be up against modded E36 M3s, C4 Corvettes, and the like. And since Street Prepared allows you to do several suspension and performance mods (like coilovers and brakes), you're going to find yourself spending a lot of money to be competitive. I hope to at least become competitive in BS before going crazy with the mods.
G
I know that in the BMWCCA autox classifications, any sways (even fronts) take you out of stock but an X-brace or strut brace do not. As, to date, I have only autox-ed with the BMWCCA, those are the rules I have been paying attention to. And my car already has the X-brace (I installed it a while ago) so if I start autox-ing with the SCCA, I'll jsut have to accept my classification.
Regardless of SCCA classification, the X-brace makes such a huge improvement in feel, you should consider it anyway.
Regardless of SCCA classification, the X-brace makes such a huge improvement in feel, you should consider it anyway.
Some of what's allowed/not allowed is baffling. Different steering wheel? Can't run in stock. R comps? Not a problem for stock. :tsk:
I don't see a significant difference in times from BS to BSP in the DC series (SCCA or MWCSCC). If you don't have regional or natiopnal aspirations (in your current cars, anyway), I don't see where there would be a compelling need to spend more money on more mods just to be competitive. In fact, I see it as some breathing room to be able to do a few things that would increase the enjoyment of your vehicle on the street that wouldn't bump you up a class. I don't think I could say that about many other classes.
I think that you may well find it tougher to be competitve in BS than in BSP right now, but that may be what you want. Also, it could well change next year.
BTW, the SCCA is going to run a Novice Autocrossers school on October 12 (same day as the BMW event at Bowie). It's expensive ($75/person), but it's a seven hour session and looks like it covers more than the BMW school did (including things like how to work the course and do tech in addition to walking, setup and driving). They may run another one in November.
Jetfire said:
Well, if you did things to your cars (Jetfire, TD) you would be running modded E36 M3s, no?
I don't see a significant difference in times from BS to BSP in the DC series (SCCA or MWCSCC). If you don't have regional or natiopnal aspirations (in your current cars, anyway), I don't see where there would be a compelling need to spend more money on more mods just to be competitive. In fact, I see it as some breathing room to be able to do a few things that would increase the enjoyment of your vehicle on the street that wouldn't bump you up a class. I don't think I could say that about many other classes.I think that you may well find it tougher to be competitve in BS than in BSP right now, but that may be what you want. Also, it could well change next year.
BTW, the SCCA is going to run a Novice Autocrossers school on October 12 (same day as the BMW event at Bowie). It's expensive ($75/person), but it's a seven hour session and looks like it covers more than the BMW school did (including things like how to work the course and do tech in addition to walking, setup and driving). They may run another one in November.
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