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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I'm just driving down the highway today and suddenly get a warning (yellow) that my engine is over heating then a red notice to ride cautiously to a stop. I slowly drive off the highway and luckily find a BP station in East St. Louis IL (fun). I get a generic coolant and dump the entire bottle in. Drive away for about 3 minutes back on the highway and get the same warnings so pulled over and used the SOS... they were very good getting me a tow truck and UBER complimentary -very impressed with them. So, is this just a hose disconnect or a burst at 50K miles? I was on a very bumpy highway before this happened. I had the car towed to my stealership and am concerned they will say "we have to replace your entire coolant system" at 50K.... anybody have a failure like this at 50K?
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Im just WAGing....your electric water pump has failed.


(Knowing what car, model and year you have would help...)

When the water stops flowing due to a stopped pump, instant overheat.

And oddly, the radiator isnt overheating- only the water within the cooling jacket inside the engine is (dangerously?) overheating

Oh, you dont have a warranty? Why in gods name are you using SOS and going to a BMW dealership? I mean call them 'stealership' yet YOU are going there?!?!?

Finally if you have just recently passed out of warranty, there is a BMWNA 'goodwill' program. The dealer CAN get this authorized. Two things: 1. The dealer controls this, NOT bmwna. They will 'pretend' they need to go to BMWNA, but they dont. (at least a few years ago) and 2. They also get to decide what percentage will be covered. Why does this matter to them? Lets say BMWNA will pay they 4 hrs of BMW warranty rate plus parts at cost. If YOUpay, they say its a 5 hr job 145 an hour, and parts are $1400. They make 800 more if you pay. ***IF they say "BMW covers half", the dealer still gets to shaft you for $400. They get half of teh BMW paid reimbursment.

Crazy huh?

Assuming this is possible, make it clear to the SA that you will 'take care' of him personally, but this needs to be 100% goodwill, otherwise you have an indy to do it. and make plans to find an indy if the dealer is too $$$$.
 

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I see you have 330? So it should be belt driven pump.
Overheating like that is usually pump, thermostat or blown hose.


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So, I'm just driving down the highway today and suddenly get a warning (yellow) that my engine is over heating then a red notice to ride cautiously to a stop. I slowly drive off the highway and luckily find a BP station in East St. Louis IL (fun). I get a generic coolant and dump the entire bottle in. Drive away for about 3 minutes back on the highway and get the same warnings so pulled over and used the SOS... they were very good getting me a tow truck and UBER complimentary -very impressed with them. So, is this just a hose disconnect or a burst at 50K miles? I was on a very bumpy highway before this happened. I had the car towed to my stealership and am concerned they will say "we have to replace your entire coolant system" at 50K.... anybody have a failure like this at 50K?
If you lost that much coolant twice I would say you have a large leak somewhere. Your description doesn't have enough detail to pinpoint the true cause. It's going to take a good mechanic at either the dealership or independent repair to figure it all out. And dealerships in my experience are honest.
 

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I get a generic coolant and dump the entire bottle in.
Unless it was diluted 50/50 this could be a problem, too. Straight water would have been better. I know it's hard to think straight when you're in the throes of an emergency! What was the solution?
 

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If you added 1 gallon of coolant, it may have been leaking for a while.

Did it need even more coolant added later to be up to spec?

After your mechanic looks around and under the car, the coolant leak should be visible.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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There are quite a few F3X engines. The one that I picked to look at has,

Attention!
Filling without vacuum filling unit (watering can filling) is not approved for this engine.
In case of noncompliance, there is a danger of engine damage!
 

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There are quite a few F3X engines. The one that I picked to look at has,

Attention!
Filling without vacuum filling unit (watering can filling) is not approved for this engine.
In case of noncompliance, there is a danger of engine damage!
It is perfectly fine to fill without a vacuum unit. TIS is bcs. 99% of people will not watch for low-level coolant after initial fill and add coolant. Those that look for a low coolant levels after work is performed will be fine.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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It is perfectly fine to fill without a vacuum unit. TIS is bcs. 99% of people will not watch for low-level coolant after initial fill and add coolant. Those that look for a low coolant levels after work is performed will be fine.
The reason for vacuum filling is that there are trapped air voids (like in the head) without adequate flow (differential pressure) to flush out the air during venting / bleeding. If the coolant level is low enough, below the water pump, then the pump is air bound and will create no flow to vent / bleed. If the coolant pump has Graphitar bearings then it is ruined by running dry bearings.
 

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The reason for vacuum filling is that there are trapped air voids (like in the head) without adequate flow (differential pressure) to flush out the air during venting / bleeding. If the coolant level is low enough, below the water pump, then the pump is air bound and will create no flow to vent / bleed. If the coolant pump has Graphitar bearings then it is ruined by running dry bearings.
330 has regular water pump not electric one with graphitar bearings.
Again, I understand your point. But TIS is bcs. nuisance that people are coming back to add coolant. On electric pump bleeding using regular procedure does the trick. Coolant might have to be added and that is where the problem is.


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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 105K miles NOKIAN WR G3 20K miles
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330 has regular water pump not electric one with graphitar bearings.
Again, I understand your point. But TIS is bcs. nuisance that people are coming back to add coolant. On electric pump bleeding using regular procedure does the trick. Coolant might have to be added and that is where the problem is.


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A mechanical water pump gets air bound as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Autohaus BMW service mechanic sent me this video of his inspection. Cracked rubber hose looks really small diameter. Maybe it goes to the heater core?

Thank you guys for your comments. They said it was a 3.5 hour replacement ($690) but they didn't call me at the end of the day. I see on my Locate My BMW it is sitting outside in the back of the building.
 

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A mechanical water pump gets air bound as well.
Absolutely. But it is non issue if you check coolant level after fill for several days. BMW is trying to avoid customers popping to dealerships and saying: I paid $xxxx and I got some light.


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Apay Kapoy
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I had an incident around 2 years ago where I also had the yellow overheat warning due to a high pressure coolant hose that was broken and leaking steaming coolant. I bought the hose, installed it, put new coolant (european generic) and bled the system (easy process)...so far so good.
Bleeding the system after you added the coolant would have helped but not if your water pump failed. Good luck!
 

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only 3.5 hours for that hose? Hmmm. Anyone have an opinion on this job? 3.5 hrs and $691. Feels like BMW dealer pricing.

Why does that video annoy the CRAP out of me? "thanks for the opportunity" to work on your BMW...Jesus. so full of $hit.
 

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only 3.5 hours for that hose? Hmmm. Anyone have an opinion on this job? 3.5 hrs and $691. Feels like BMW dealer pricing.

Why does that video annoy the CRAP out of me? "thanks for the opportunity" to work on your BMW...Jesus. so full of $hit.
Excellent! They went from easy accessible plastic flange on N51/52/53/54/55 to similarly bad quality flanges but they buried under intake manifold.


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only 3.5 hours for that hose? Hmmm. Anyone have an opinion on this job? 3.5 hrs and $691. Feels like BMW dealer pricing.

Why does that video annoy the CRAP out of me? "thanks for the opportunity" to work on your BMW...Jesus. so full of $hit.
If the leak is fixed and the o.p.'s car is back on the road that is all that really matters. $700 is not that much.
 

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If the leak is fixed and the o.p.'s car is back on the road that is all that really matters. $700 is not that much.
Probably requires intake manifold removal. In N generation flanges were just too easy to fix, so why not making it more complicated? Same goes for OFH on B engines.


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If the leak is fixed and the o.p.'s car is back on the road that is all that really matters. $700 is not that much.
Are you saying that $700 is below mitchell book time? Or that $700 isnt a lot of money to you?

$700 for a tire rotation is different than $700 to install a tranny.
 

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Why does that video annoy the CRAP out of me? "thanks for the opportunity" to work on your BMW...Jesus. so full of $hit.
Much better than "sir, you need a new engine"...some dealerships would jump right to that.

That was likely sudden coolant loss. Unless the spot is life threatening, you want to stop right away. Probably a good thing you didn't have any coolant in the trunk. You want to wait a bit before adding cool coolant to a hot engine as it can crack the engine block.
 
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