Right so the problems worse than before and the car failed ro jumpstart.. AA cane down and they couldnt jump start it either!.. Bigger problem than before.. It will be arranged to have it towed away now! God knows whats wrong!
Hi i was having a similar problem with my 2000 E39 528I; I change the FSU and so far the car has been starting; I plan on also replacing the ignition switch this weekend. I don't know if this will help but it could be your Ignition switch that is the culprit.
Hi there. Yes this has probably already been said, but a badcell in the battery would cause your battery to read erratically at times. Other times it may start fine for a weeks straight and boom nothing when you need it. The battery should read anywhere from 12.5v-12.6v without the car running. The with it running, your reading should be anywhere from 13.8v-14.2v for a good alternator. Sometimes the Alternator can show an excessive ripple from a faulty diode. Other times it can be that a diode is open. If at all your battery light no a bunch of others come on and you start losing the radio, lights etc...your alternator has not the dust. You will have to make sure it isn't dropping when reading a voltage sufficiently, which in your case, is not the problem. Make sure the battery tests well. The maximum amperage your car is allowed before you need to get it checked out is .79 amps. Anything over that is suspect and will need to find the drain. I will say Bmw's do have a high draw for the first 5-10 minutes, but it slowly drops in normal circumstances. Besides getting it fixed, there is an alternative. It is a pain in the butt, but you could disconnect the negative(ground) to your battery and make sure it isn't making connection anywhere. This will keep the computer or nothing that is draining your battery from doing its task. It should be a 10mm and it will start when you are ready to start it. I hope this is somewhat of a help. I know what it is like to have a dead battery and need more juice to start it. Maybe I you could describe the noises it is making when you try to start it, then we could be of more assistance. I have a 900cca AAA battery in mine. I have no drain and left my parking lights on for 12hrs after working an 18hr shift and it fired up.
Also, the average number of times a battery is severely charged and completely drained significantly reduces the lifetime of the battery. Usually 4-5 complete drains is time for a new battery if things don't check out. Also, check the battery fuse to make sure it hasn't blown. The AAA guy could have put red on black and black on red. Who knows what can happen right? Plus if it is really dead a jump box usually will not do it. We have 1000cca jump boxes and need jumper cables on top of the jump box at times for BMW's. best of luck.
When the electrical guy tested your system for drain/a short, did he test the alternator at all? If a diode is stuck open or you has something minor that is wrong with it, then it could cause the battery not to charge back up properly leaving you without the car. I assume the parts store will have a diagnostic tool for the battery and charging system. We have a tool that tests the battery, starter, alternator, and electrical drain . 9/10 the diode or phase is open and we see a customer repetitively because they won't see someone about it. Hope this helps in any way.
The alternator is charging.. But.. When the autoelectrician had a look at it.. He couldnt find a drain as it was intermittent.. But he didnt look at anything else the cheeky bugger and charged me for it.. I think it was the alternator and that theres a faulty diode.. However, my car is refusing to start now even with a jump start.. Looks like another problem now!.. It just clicks.. Brand new battery put in too.. Ignition switch? Starter motor?
How many clicks, how fast, what is the instrument cluster doing when you try to start it, etc. ? Like click......click.....click or more like clickclickclickclick? Like a click kuh? Any lights stay on/come on when driving? Any codes being thrown? How clean are you battery post and terminals? Sometimes the slightest bit of corrosion or unseen junk between the two can cause a false sound such as a starter. Also make sure the connection is tight to the battery post. If they are loose you could not get a proper connection. If tight, try a friend to apply pressure in an upward manner to the positive cable at the battery while trying to start. If nothing, try the negative. If nothing, move on from that test because if the battery is dead it will not help or start regardless and this test is worthless.
Hi.. The sound is just one click.. And thats it.. The batteries are fine.. Both fully charged when put in.. The new one is only a month old.. This has gone from an intermittent car drain to something even worse!
The battery posts are clean and terminals have nothing between it and the posts ie. dirt or corrosion right? With the fresh battery, try one starting and the other holding cables to the battery up individually to make sure something isn't loose or shorted out. That is a common one click symptom. Another can be the starter. One thing you can try for desperate measure is use something as an extension (pry bar,socket extension, anything will do) and as one person is trying to constantly start it have the other tapping the starter continuously. 9/10 times if it is the starter, then it'll turn over and start.
No the battery posts are clean.. Especially on the new battery.. Could someone indicate where the starter motor is?.. A picture?.. I think its tucked underneath the engine.. And i the AA man tried to jumpstart with no aveil.. I suspect now there is a possible short somewhere.. The voltage spikes due to jumpstarting so many times may have damaged the starter motor?
The starter should be on the back end of the intake manifold downbeat the motor. It is behind/parallel to the alternator roughly 2'. It is past the pcv/ccv. Attached to the "bell." Look for the dipstick and go down ~8" and head NE you should see it with a couple wires with red indicating the positive wires. There are 2 cylinder looking piece to it. One is the starter the other is the solenoid. Good luck.
10-4. Someone was constantly trying to start it while you were tapping lightly and fairly hard at times? I am sorry if it didn't work . All the visible ground wires on the car are connected and have a a good connection yes? Big battery fuse isn't blown either?
Just for the record, there is a parasitic battery drain diagnostic procedure in the works here:
- One users experience diagnosing a dead battery overnight, including a listing of all fuses in the bimmer and diagnostic procedures for parasitic drain and FSU and Fuse F76 replacement advice (1)
Right so i thought id update you with what the fix was.. Took it to a bmw specialist and they detrmined it to be the starter motor within 2 hours.. They seemed pretty sure about it so i asked them to change it.. The customer service guy couldmt really tell me what was wrong with starter motor, dont think he was technical at all.. But £350 bill last week for it seemed to have done the trick.. Its been just over a week and no problems at all! hope it carries on like this..
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