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I believe the N62 is a DOHC engine, not sure it has "lifters".
OHC engines use lifters between the rockers and valves to maintain proper lash during heat cycles, or as fulcrums for the same reason as on a Ford Triton; the ones on the N52 are small hydraulic pistons, #7 on the OEM parts diagram; N63 is #10 here as another example. BMW calls them “alignment elements.”


In this picture I took when I did my first 5.4 3v timing job a few years ago, you can see the lifter oil nipples clustered at each cylinder opposite the valve springs. The rockers/roller followers on that engine sit below the cams and are held in place solely by hydraulic pressure at the lifters. If the lifters bleed down, the cams can kick the rockers out of place.




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(I bought close to $300 worth of it a few years ago.... I figure the shelf life should be another 46 million years.)
I alluded to the change in required oil from the ‘60s to present for a Ford GT, not the oil itself. I presumed that’s where you were headed.


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my car ticks in drive with 10w and 15w only in drive though when i go to park and rev it, it sounds silky smooth is this a IVM symptom?
My N52 ticks with anything thicker than 0w during the winter. I run 0w in the N52, in my truck, wife's van, and her old Jetta. Unless @edycol has a reason not to, I'd run Castrol 0w-40 in your V8 as well. I want maximum flow at start up, I don't track the cars, and have functioning oil coolers, so the first number is of greater importance to me than the second.

The "revving to get rid of the tick" was actually a BMW TSB a decade ago when dealing with ticking N series lifters. Don't change oil to mask leaking seals; replace the seals if they're leaking.

Avoid engine oil additives; the ONLY one that I'll use without issue is Marvel Mystery oil to clean out poorly maintained engines. Only you would know how your internals look; open the oil fill cap and peer in with a flashlight, even a boroscope if need be. If you see varnish and/or sludge, a 1 quart MMO treatment might be on your to-do list.
 
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