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i was told 10w40 can slow oil consumption, i was wondering if it is ok to use it as opposed to 5w40
40 grade is a range. 12.5cst to 16.5cst at 100c. So your 10W40 might be thinner than some 5W40.
XXW is cold cranking simulation test and doesn’t have anything to do with thickness of oil at 100c.
What oil are you using?


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So that oil is good as it gets and won’t have any adverse effects on your engine. Usually those oils are made out of cheap base stocks and filled with additives that make gaskets basically swollen. But that particular M1 is good stuff. So you won’t see oxidation =sludge. However, you really won’t resolve issue. If you live in warm climate you can go Mobil1 15W50 racing oil. 25% thicker than that 10W40. You might take a hit in consumption though. But, it is N62, it is known oil leaker.


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and using this thicker oil wont harm the n62? i mean we are talking about a more modern engine with Vanos and Valvetronic.
How does your valvetronic survives cold starts when oil is 20 times thicker? Engines can run thick oils, they cant run super thin oils.
Don’t use additives. They might create more issues. M1 10W40 has already additives that will seal some small leaks. But ultimately, if problem is neglected, nothing will work.


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what temp can 15w50 Mobil1 be run at like lowest temp
15W is tested at -20c. That is cold cranking simulation. That means temperature of oil is -20c not ambient temperature.
Now in 90’s most oils in Europe were 15W40. I used 15W40 in my E30 318 and E34 520i and started them regularly well below-20. But they didn’t have VANOS etc.
If you live in snow belt, use 10W40.


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There is no reason not to use Castrol Edge 0W40. If valve stems are bad probably will burn more as it is thinner at 100c than M1 10W40 HM.
If everything is ok, it is probably best choice.


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my 750i seems to like 15w50 especially at high rpm the engine feels smother when going through rpm band but has the tick tick going on while foot on break at a stop light and this happened with 10w40 but going away afterwards if I let off break or put it into park also low idle like 400-500 rom someone told me the break booster is my issue as if I feel like I'm trying to press a concrete wall also. it is a strange tick i never get it in park at idle and when i rev it in park only when drive tik tik tik at 500 and sometimes 400 rpm and the car feels like it wants to sprint like the car torques up and in the back and squats like how runners do when they run the mile
Probably mechanical issue and oils sometimes hide issue until it gets really bad.
Try 0W40. 15W50 is fairly thick oil. Not sure you are gaining anything except lowering a bit oil consumption.


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5w50 vs 15w50 what is the difference, was thinking about running it because my manual says i can use 5w40
In N62 5W40 was go to LL01 oil when it was developed. Any engine can run any grade. There is no such thing as too thick (there is too thin).
15w50 today is usually oil made for specific use (track). It is however nothing special. That grade is easy to make, so not particularly sophisticated(unless talking Motul 15W50 300V).
5W50 is harder to made. Some cars require it (Mustang, Porsche 911). It is more sophisticated and usually made from better base stocks to prevent shear (5W50 will shear down to 5W40 MUCH faster than 5W40 to 5W30).
Considering your issues if you want to try go 15W50 unless you live in cold area. Than 5W50. I am saying that mainly bcs. you want to mitigate oil consumption and Mobil1 15W50 is super cheap.


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ok so 15w50 shouldn't cause any issues with valvetronic or vanos, I'm just considering 5w50 because it seems more like a oil that would be similar to what this car takes but thicker when warm but if it shears faster than 15w50 then there isn't any point because 5w50 is expensive.
15W50 and 5W50 are similar (same) in thickness! Both are 50 grade! Difference is in cold pumpability.
No it won’t cause VANOS issues.


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