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I believe the N62 is a DOHC engine, not sure it has "lifters".
OHC engines use lifters between the rockers and valves to maintain proper lash during heat cycles, or as fulcrums for the same reason as on a Ford Triton; the ones on the N52 are small hydraulic pistons, #7 on the OEM parts diagram; N63 is #10 here as another example. BMW calls them “alignment elements.”


In this picture I took when I did my first 5.4 3v timing job a few years ago, you can see the lifter oil nipples clustered at each cylinder opposite the valve springs. The rockers/roller followers on that engine sit below the cams and are held in place solely by hydraulic pressure at the lifters. If the lifters bleed down, the cams can kick the rockers out of place.




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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
15W is tested at -20c. That is cold cranking simulation. That means temperature of oil is -20c not ambient temperature.
Now in 90’s most oils in Europe were 15W40. I used 15W40 in my E30 318 and E34 520i and started them regularly well below-20. But they didn’t have VANOS etc.
If you live in snow belt, use 10W40.


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I'm not running my 750i through the winter, so I just changed to 15w50 and for some reason it feels smoother and it has better pick up now. before id have the engine feel like it would lug itself around sometimes and now i don't have that
 

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I think Ford GT is Castrol Edge 5W50.


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Could be. Not sure if that has changed over the years.... ;)
 

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(I bought close to $300 worth of it a few years ago.... I figure the shelf life should be another 46 million years.)
 

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(I bought close to $300 worth of it a few years ago.... I figure the shelf life should be another 46 million years.)
I alluded to the change in required oil from the ‘60s to present for a Ford GT, not the oil itself. I presumed that’s where you were headed.


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Ok, I'm wrong.
I think direct DOHC on valve actuation is rare. It would be normal to interpose a hydraulic lash adjuster (ie upside down lifter). Having rockers is more unusual though. But thankfully they do - it makes BMWs about the easiest car to replace valve seals. They can be done without the massive hassle that comes with removing cams and chains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
OHC engines use lifters between the rockers and valves to maintain proper lash during heat cycles, or as fulcrums for the same reason as on a Ford Triton; the ones on the N52 are small hydraulic pistons, #7 on the OEM parts diagram; N63 is #10 here as another example. BMW calls them “alignment elements.”


In this picture I took when I did my first 5.4 3v timing job a few years ago, you can see the lifter oil nipples clustered at each cylinder opposite the valve springs. The rockers/roller followers on that engine sit below the cams and are held in place solely by hydraulic pressure at the lifters. If the lifters bleed down, the cams can kick the rockers out of place.




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my car ticks in drive with 10w and 15w only in drive though when i go to park and rev it, it sounds silky smooth is this a IVM symptom?
 

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my car ticks in drive with 10w and 15w only in drive though when i go to park and rev it, it sounds silky smooth is this a IVM symptom?
My N52 ticks with anything thicker than 0w during the winter. I run 0w in the N52, in my truck, wife's van, and her old Jetta. Unless @edycol has a reason not to, I'd run Castrol 0w-40 in your V8 as well. I want maximum flow at start up, I don't track the cars, and have functioning oil coolers, so the first number is of greater importance to me than the second.

The "revving to get rid of the tick" was actually a BMW TSB a decade ago when dealing with ticking N series lifters. Don't change oil to mask leaking seals; replace the seals if they're leaking.

Avoid engine oil additives; the ONLY one that I'll use without issue is Marvel Mystery oil to clean out poorly maintained engines. Only you would know how your internals look; open the oil fill cap and peer in with a flashlight, even a boroscope if need be. If you see varnish and/or sludge, a 1 quart MMO treatment might be on your to-do list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
There is no reason not to use Castrol Edge 0W40. If valve stems are bad probably will burn more as it is thinner at 100c than M1 10W40 HM.
If everything is ok, it is probably best choice.


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my 750i seems to like 15w50 especially at high rpm the engine feels smother when going through rpm band but has the tick tick going on while foot on break at a stop light and this happened with 10w40 but going away afterwards if I let off break or put it into park also low idle like 400-500 rom someone told me the break booster is my issue as if I feel like I'm trying to press a concrete wall also. it is a strange tick i never get it in park at idle and when i rev it in park only when drive tik tik tik at 500 and sometimes 400 rpm and the car feels like it wants to sprint like the car torques up and in the back and squats like how runners do when they run the mile
 

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my 750i seems to like 15w50 especially at high rpm the engine feels smother when going through rpm band but has the tick tick going on while foot on break at a stop light and this happened with 10w40 but going away afterwards if I let off break or put it into park also low idle like 400-500 rom someone told me the break booster is my issue as if I feel like I'm trying to press a concrete wall also. it is a strange tick i never get it in park at idle and when i rev it in park only when drive tik tik tik at 500 and sometimes 400 rpm and the car feels like it wants to sprint like the car torques up and in the back and squats like how runners do when they run the mile
Probably mechanical issue and oils sometimes hide issue until it gets really bad.
Try 0W40. 15W50 is fairly thick oil. Not sure you are gaining anything except lowering a bit oil consumption.


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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Probably mechanical issue and oils sometimes hide issue until it gets really bad.
Try 0W40. 15W50 is fairly thick oil. Not sure you are gaining anything except lowering a bit oil consumption.


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5w50 vs 15w50 what is the difference, was thinking about running it because my manual says i can use 5w40
 

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5w50 vs 15w50 what is the difference, was thinking about running it because my manual says i can use 5w40
In N62 5W40 was go to LL01 oil when it was developed. Any engine can run any grade. There is no such thing as too thick (there is too thin).
15w50 today is usually oil made for specific use (track). It is however nothing special. That grade is easy to make, so not particularly sophisticated(unless talking Motul 15W50 300V).
5W50 is harder to made. Some cars require it (Mustang, Porsche 911). It is more sophisticated and usually made from better base stocks to prevent shear (5W50 will shear down to 5W40 MUCH faster than 5W40 to 5W30).
Considering your issues if you want to try go 15W50 unless you live in cold area. Than 5W50. I am saying that mainly bcs. you want to mitigate oil consumption and Mobil1 15W50 is super cheap.


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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
In N62 5W40 was go to LL01 oil when it was developed. Any engine can run any grade. There is no such thing as too thick (there is too thin).
15w50 today is usually oil made for specific use (track). It is however nothing special. That grade is easy to make, so not particularly sophisticated(unless talking Motul 15W50 300V).
5W50 is harder to made. Some cars require it (Mustang, Porsche 911). It is more sophisticated and usually made from better base stocks to prevent shear (5W50 will shear down to 5W40 MUCH faster than 5W40 to 5W30).
Considering your issues if you want to try go 15W50 unless you live in cold area. Than 5W50. I am saying that mainly bcs. you want to mitigate oil consumption and Mobil1 15W50 is super cheap.


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ok so 15w50 shouldn't cause any issues with valvetronic or vanos, I'm just considering 5w50 because it seems more like a oil that would be similar to what this car takes but thicker when warm but if it shears faster than 15w50 then there isn't any point because 5w50 is expensive.
 

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ok so 15w50 shouldn't cause any issues with valvetronic or vanos, I'm just considering 5w50 because it seems more like a oil that would be similar to what this car takes but thicker when warm but if it shears faster than 15w50 then there isn't any point because 5w50 is expensive.
15W50 and 5W50 are similar (same) in thickness! Both are 50 grade! Difference is in cold pumpability.
No it won’t cause VANOS issues.


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