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Discussion Starter #1
I had this issue almost a year ago after I got the VCG and OPG done and it never happened again until Friday. Basically, the car sat for 3-4 days because I was driving a loaner that was given to me after dropping off my mom's car at the dealership for repairs (she works from home). I started the car Friday morning (probably around 50 degrees in the garage) because I was going to my Indy to get the brake fluid flushed and it took a while for the car to turn over. Not like minutes but a few extra seconds for the starter to engage, if that makes any sense. That same day, I start the car after they change the brake fluid and it starts up fine. Today, I start it up in the morning to go to work and it took a few extra seconds for the starter to engage. Once I got off work, I go to start the car and the same issue happened. I press the start button and it took a few extra seconds for the car to start. I doubt the battery is going bad because I just had it checked out and it came out fine. As stated above, I had this same issue almost a year ago and ever since then, it hasn't happened until Friday Morning.
 

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E90 : 09 328xi N51 E46: 05 325xi M54
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I had this issue almost a year ago after I got the VCG and OPG done and it never happened again until Friday. Basically, the car sat for 3-4 days because I was driving a loaner that was given to me after dropping off my mom's car at the dealership for repairs (she works from home). I started the car Friday morning (probably around 50 degrees in the garage) because I was going to my Indy to get the brake fluid flushed and it took a while for the car to turn over. Not like minutes but a few extra seconds for the starter to engage, if that makes any sense. That same day, I start the car after they change the brake fluid and it starts up fine. Today, I start it up in the morning to go to work and it took a few extra seconds for the starter to engage. Once I got off work, I go to start the car and the same issue happened. I press the start button and it took a few extra seconds for the car to start. I doubt the battery is going bad because I just had it checked out and it came out fine. As stated above, I had this same issue almost a year ago and ever since then, it hasn't happened until Friday Morning.
Our e46 would crank longer when we first got it. Randomly, but mostly on cold starts. Sometimes it would be fine. Fuel filter solved the issue. If it’s cranking slower, I would check the battery. If you live somewhere colder, now is the time old batteries start to fail as we start to get into fall/winter. I do t trust those battery tests from parts stores. I’ve had bad batteries test “good” and good batteries test bad. Try testing it yourself with inpa. If it’s more than 5 years old or has went dead more than 3 times, replace it.


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02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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E90 : 09 328xi N51 E46: 05 325xi M54
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Interesting. What battery tests are available in INPA, please?
Man Doug, you’re really on my ass today huh?

Using inpa or using the on board diagnostic menu to view the battery voltage, perform a load test yourself by watching the voltage. I guess if you had a helper you could use a digital multimeter but wouldn’t inpa be a little easier? Did you want me to explain how to do the load test? Or are you familiar with one?


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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Well ... I can read operating instructions and menus for INPA even though I don’t have a copy and do not use a Windoze computer.
 

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E90 : 09 328xi N51 E46: 05 325xi M54
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Try testing it yourself with inpa.


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To clarify to the OP on what I meant, YOU can do a load test WITH INPA. Inpa isn’t a diagnostic program, so don’t bother loooking for a “battery test” button to click (or “Batterietest” since inpa is mostly German) because you won’t find one.

Here’s a link to a video I found on YouTube on how to do a load test using a digital multimeter. Instead of using the digital multimeter, you could opt to use INPA and monitor the “battery voltage” on the computer screen instead.



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Discussion Starter #7
Our e46 would crank longer when we first got it. Randomly, but mostly on cold starts. Sometimes it would be fine. Fuel filter solved the issue. If it’s cranking slower, I would check the battery. If you live somewhere colder, now is the time old batteries start to fail as we start to get into fall/winter. I do t trust those battery tests from parts stores. I’ve had bad batteries test “good” and good batteries test bad. Try testing it yourself with inpa. If it’s more than 5 years old or has went dead more than 3 times, replace it.


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Yeah, the car takes longer to crank over. The battery is I think 4 years old I have to double check that. I was talking to my friend who also owns a E90 and he was saying to replace the big relay in the fuse box. That sometimes can cause slow cranking also.
 

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... I started the car Friday morning...and it took a while for the car to turn over. Not like minutes but a few extra seconds for the starter to engage, if that makes any sense. [I think I get the CONCEPT :giggle:] ... Today, I start it up in the morning to go to work and it took a few extra seconds for the starter to engage. [BOTH those descriptions are related to time BEFORE Starter began to crank engine -- NOTHING about Engine RPM once Starter began cranking engine, OR Cranking time/ seconds.] Once I got off work, I go to start the car and the same issue happened. I press the start button and it took a few extra seconds for the car to start.
Although your first two descriptions of what happened appear clear, your third description allows one to think (MAYBE?) you meant it cranked LONGER than the normal 1 to 2 seconds before the engine FIRED. It appears your thread has been "Hi-Jacked" ☠ or at least misunderstood. :unsure:

What Scan Tool or diagnostic Software do you have?
Have you checked for Fault Codes in BOTH the DME (Engine Control Module) and the CAS Module?
Does your car have AT (Automatic Transmission) or MT?
When you press the START button, do you press and immediately RELEASE the button (preferred method) or do you HOLD the button in depressed position until the engine fires?
If you press & immediately release START button, does the Starter begin to crank the engine a second or two AFTER you release the button? Does it only crank if you HOLD the START button in pressed position?

Assuming the Starter turns the engine at the normal RPM once cranking begins, and the engine fires in 1 to 2 seconds after cranking begins (as normal), then you MAY have an issue with one of the following signals which the CAS needs to receive BEFORE it sends the B+ Start Signal to the Starter Solenoid:
1) P/N Gear Selected Signal if AT;
2) Brake Light Switch signal if AT;
3) Clutch Switch signal if MT;

If you had INPA or ISTA, you could read INPUTS to the CAS Module from each of those switches to determine IF they are being received normally, or which one is "delayed". It is also possible that there is an issue with contact of one of the two CAS power supply fuses or an internal issue in the CAS causing a delay in activation of "Terminal 50" which is the Starter Solenoid power supply terminal within the CAS Module.

If you have INPA/ISTA we can suggest some screens to view and data to readout. Otherwise, it would be difficult to test with only a multimeter, although it COULD be done.

George
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Although your first two descriptions of what happened appear clear, your third description allows one to think (MAYBE?) you meant it cranked LONGER than the normal 1 to 2 seconds before the engine FIRED. It appears your thread has been "Hi-Jacked" ☠ or at least misunderstood. :unsure:

What Scan Tool or diagnostic Software do you have?
Have you checked for Fault Codes in BOTH the DME (Engine Control Module) and the CAS Module?
Does your car have AT (Automatic Transmission) or MT?
When you press the START button, do you press and immediately RELEASE the button (preferred method) or do you HOLD the button in depressed position until the engine fires?
If you press & immediately release START button, does the Starter begin to crank the engine a second or two AFTER you release the button? Does it only crank if you HOLD the START button in pressed position?

Assuming the Starter turns the engine at the normal RPM once cranking begins, and the engine fires in 1 to 2 seconds after cranking begins (as normal), then you MAY have an issue with one of the following signals which the CAS needs to receive BEFORE it sends the B+ Start Signal to the Starter Solenoid:
1) P/N Gear Selected Signal if AT;
2) Brake Light Switch signal if AT;
3) Clutch Switch signal if MT;

If you had INPA or ISTA, you could read INPUTS to the CAS Module from each of those switches to determine IF they are being received normally, or which one is "delayed". It is also possible that there is an issue with contact of one of the two CAS power supply fuses or an internal issue in the CAS causing a delay in activation of "Terminal 50" which is the Starter Solenoid power supply terminal within the CAS Module.

If you have INPA/ISTA we can suggest some screens to view and data to readout. Otherwise, it would be difficult to test with only a multimeter, although it COULD be done.

George
I have a foxwell scanner. I’ve been thinking about getting the hummer geeks tools but still double minded on that. I just push the brake down mad press the start button. I don’t hold it down. I’ve got a automatic transmission. Yes, the starter begins to crank 1-2 seconds after I press the button. So, basically o hold the brake press the start button and the starter tried cranking the engine and then after 1-2 seconds it finally starts up. Yeah, I don’t have a INPA or ISTA. I remember checking all my fuses with a multimeter not too long ago. Everything came out fine
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To clarify to the OP on what I meant, YOU can do a load test WITH INPA. Inpa isn’t a diagnostic program, so don’t bother loooking for a “battery test” button to click (or “Batterietest” since inpa is mostly German) because you won’t find one.

Here’s a link to a video I found on YouTube on how to do a load test using a digital multimeter. Instead of using the digital multimeter, you could opt to use INPA and monitor the “battery voltage” on the computer screen instead.



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I did a load test and tested all the fuses like 2 months ago. They were all fine back then.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What is ambient temperature when this happened?


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On Friday when it happened it was 48 outside but the cars always garaged so around 55 in the garage? Saturday, it was around 60 outside so 65ish in the garage I'd say. Saturday night when I got off work it was around 54 outside. It wasn't freezing cold outside.
 

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On Friday when it happened it was 48 outside but the cars always garaged so around 55 in the garage? Saturday, it was around 60 outside so 65ish in the garage I'd say. Saturday night when I got off work it was around 54 outside. It wasn't freezing cold outside.
That is enough for weak battery. Do load tests at those temperatures.
I think your BMW might be telling you that battery is going out. Take a clue and test battery again before throwing money at other parts.
Last year my battery in Toyota had sudden death at around 60 degrees in garage after ambient temperature dropped from 85 to 50 (quite normal in CO to have 30-40 temperature swings every week in fall and spring).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That is enough for weak battery. Do load tests at those temperatures.
I think your BMW might be telling you that battery is going out. Take a clue and test battery again before throwing money at other parts.
Last year my battery in Toyota had sudden death at around 60 degrees in garage after ambient temperature dropped from 85 to 50 (quite normal in CO to have 30-40 temperature swings every week in fall and spring).
I might get the battery tested again. I started the car this morning (probably like 45 outside) and it fired right up.
 

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I had this issue almost a year ago after I got the VCG and OPG done and it never happened again until Friday. Basically, the car sat for 3-4 days because I was driving a loaner that was given to me after dropping off my mom's car at the dealership for repairs (she works from home). I started the car Friday morning (probably around 50 degrees in the garage) because I was going to my Indy to get the brake fluid flushed and it took a while for the car to turn over. Not like minutes but a few extra seconds for the starter to engage, if that makes any sense. That same day, I start the car after they change the brake fluid and it starts up fine. Today, I start it up in the morning to go to work and it took a few extra seconds for the starter to engage. Once I got off work, I go to start the car and the same issue happened. I press the start button and it took a few extra seconds for the car to start. I doubt the battery is going bad because I just had it checked out and it came out fine. As stated above, I had this same issue almost a year ago and ever since then, it hasn't happened until Friday Morning.
I have similar 2009 e93 328i with the N51 which I bought used and had shipped from another state with 74k on the odometer. Since I had no real reference, I did not know what speed the starter should turn upon hitting the start button. That was until it started getting slower and once in a while not engaging at all on first push. I got a new battery which seemed to help a little for a while, but the symptoms remained. It all came to a head when I brought my car in to my local tire guy for new fronts. When I attempted to back my car out of his outdoor work area, I hit the button and nothing. Not even a click. Tried jumping battery , banging the starter ....nothing.
Had it towed home and I proceeded to troubleshoot praying I didn't have to replace the starter. Well after tracing the signal that activates the solenoid and finding out the signal was good, it was time to change the starter. Under the intake manifold. Decent size job for a just a starter. Didn't mess around and got a Bosch OE replacement unit. Car started right up and boy what a difference in starter speed and power. Long story short, it sounds like you are in the beginning stages of starter failure. Especially if your battery is good.
I had this issue almost a year ago after I got the VCG and OPG done and it never happened again until Friday. Basically, the car sat for 3-4 days because I was driving a loaner that was given to me after dropping off my mom's car at the dealership for repairs (she works from home). I started the car Friday morning (probably around 50 degrees in the garage) because I was going to my Indy to get the brake fluid flushed and it took a while for the car to turn over. Not like minutes but a few extra seconds for the starter to engage, if that makes any sense. That same day, I start the car after they change the brake fluid and it starts up fine. Today, I start it up in the morning to go to work and it took a few extra seconds for the starter to engage. Once I got off work, I go to start the car and the same issue happened. I press the start button and it took a few extra seconds for the car to start. I doubt the battery is going bad because I just had it checked out and it came out fine. As stated above, I had this same issue almost a year ago and ever since then, it hasn't happened until Friday Morning.
Yes sounds like it. I have 2009 e93 328i with N51 motor and 75k on the odometer.. Symptoms started like yours and thought it was the battery. Symptoms continued and worsened where a couple of times I would hit the button and nothing, not even a click. Finally one day it just up and died. Before replacing it I verified the wire going to the starter solenoid was getting 12 volts. Replaced with an OEM Bosch unit which I highly recommend. Long story short it sounds like you're in the beginning stages of starter failure if your battery is verified good.
 

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E90 series generally has a dodgy or weak starter solenoid. Relatively common to require starter replacement. From memory, something I read, it relates to the bolts corroding, a weak ground, leading to high resistance affecting the stater.
Whatever the cause, it seems to be relatively common.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Turns out the battery was sort of low. I got it tested and the battery tester showed that the CCA was 690 when the battery is rated at 790 CCA. I'm just gonna hook the car to a trickle charger overnight.
 
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