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Looks like a nice car, and well cared for, but I would think that comparing to others in your area is the best way to see if you are getting a good deal. This will get you the most accurate pricing of all the online sites. https://www.nadaguides.com/
 

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Price looks reasonable if not great. Also looks like owner has taken good care of. This is a MT car though which could be pain for some people.
 

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"The engine is low maintenance and will last for many years and miles to come"

:rofl: "low maintenance", hehe, that's funny.

Honestly though, I have the exact same engine, and I'm quite happy with mine.

Anyways, as for the price, yeah, it looks like a pretty good deal. The interior (at least from the pics) looks almost brand new. I'd definitely say this worth going to take a look at.
 

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Breaking in the Pony
2019 Mustang GT / 2005 Toyota Tacoma
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WTH is a "2012(2011 model year)"? A 2011 that was sitting on the lot for a year until some time in 2012? How would that be considered a good thing?
 

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WTH is a "2012(2011 model year)"? A 2011 that was sitting on the lot for a year until some time in 2012? How would that be considered a good thing?
I was wondering the same thing. It's a 2011. Likely bought it January 2012 or something. Just the seller trying to make it seem newer than it is :rolleyes:
 

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Looks like a nice clean, well cared for, fairly low mileage (for the year) 328i in a nice color combo, with M-sport package and a manual trans. All for the price of a 5 year old Toyota Corolla.

I say jump on it!
 

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Looks clean, but that seems like a lot for a car with no options.
I'd say the 6 speed manual and sport package are the two most important options!
But seriously, I bought a 2008 with 6 speed manual and sport package and I was happy that it did not have idrive or nav. Less electronics can be a good thing.
 

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WTH is a "2012(2011 model year)"? A 2011 that was sitting on the lot for a year until some time in 2012? How would that be considered a good thing?
Actually, sedans ended in 2011. Coup and convert until 2012. - Hence e92 M3 2012 but no sedan. It is the final year of their lci. They have minor changes from 2011, with the best being in the 335is.
 

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After more than a dozen cars in my lifetime, the first several used, here are some thoughts that come to mind:

1) Price. If ridiculously low, something is wrong. If slightly low and the seller has a good story to tell, it might be a gem in the rough.
a) Reasonable stories, from someone who gave away a 99 GS400, to a couple down to one car, and in a squeeze. I just bought an expensive car, because I now can. I don't need the resale. They needed the boost, to begin a savings plan to get them to where I am, 30 years down the road.
b) So, look for the replacement that is way out of the same league as the car they are selling.
c) They are out of space, want to get rid of it in a hurry, and they believe it is a fair, but fast selling price.
2) I'm worried about the MT. Almost no one that I have ever met really knows how to drive a manual transmission. i.e. double clutch both up and down, so as not to wear out the synchro's or clutch. Someone who has cared for their MT's, should have an almost new transmission, at 100K miles. You can find out by simply, but gently, shoving the stick from say 4th to 3rd, and see if the synchro's keep the gears from grinding. If the owner is not present on the test drive, at about 20 mph, in 1st, on an uphill grade, floor it. If there is any hint of clutch slip (surge in rpm before settling in to the corresponding buildup of speed), it shows that someone has driven the car just like test (a). Chatter as you gently let out the clutch from a stop. A loose stick.
Walk away.
3) A complete paperwork trail is always a good sign. Not only does it tell you about how the car was driven/cared for by the things repaired. It tells you the owner valued the car.
4) Body lines, seams, inside compartments, underneath look for misalignments & wrinkles. And an admission of any bumps dings or crashes. If honestly reported and well repaired, it is no big deal. It could also account for the price. If you see misalignments and don't get a confirming answer to "Any mishaps?", walk away.
Also, just inside say a trunk lid, look for a tape line embedded in the paint, where the section was masked. Again, honest story along with, is okay.
5) Any fluids, except around the engine drain plug (if they have paperwork showing the oil changes at a business); walk away.
6) When cool, open the radiator cap, and look for absolutely spotless insides. Any sign of crud, deposits, or worse rust; walk away. If you see puss like globs the engine has a blown head gasket; run away.
7) Examine the paint on the most exposed surfaces; such as, roof, trunk lid, hood for any indication that the paint is fading, cracking, wearing away. That means they didn't wax the car regularly. They didn't care about their baby car.
 

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After more than a dozen cars in my lifetime, the first several used, here are some thoughts that come to mind:

1) Price. If ridiculously low, something is wrong. If slightly low and the seller has a good story to tell, it might be a gem in the rough.
a) Reasonable stories, from someone who gave away a 99 GS400, to a couple down to one car, and in a squeeze. I just bought an expensive car, because I now can. I don't need the resale. They needed the boost, to begin a savings plan to get them to where I am, 30 years down the road.
b) So, look for the replacement that is way out of the same league as the car they are selling.
c) They are out of space, want to get rid of it in a hurry, and they believe it is a fair, but fast selling price.
2) I'm worried about the MT. Almost no one that I have ever met really knows how to drive a manual transmission. i.e. double clutch both up and down, so as not to wear out the synchro's or clutch. Someone who has cared for their MT's, should have an almost new transmission, at 100K miles. You can find out by simply, but gently, shoving the stick from say 4th to 3rd, and see if the synchro's keep the gears from grinding. If the owner is not present on the test drive, at about 20 mph, in 1st, on an uphill grade, floor it. If there is any hint of clutch slip (surge in rpm before settling in to the corresponding buildup of speed), it shows that someone has driven the car just like test (a). Chatter as you gently let out the clutch from a stop. A loose stick.
Walk away.
3) A complete paperwork trail is always a good sign. Not only does it tell you about how the car was driven/cared for by the things repaired. It tells you the owner valued the car.
4) Body lines, seams, inside compartments, underneath look for misalignments & wrinkles. And an admission of any bumps dings or crashes. If honestly reported and well repaired, it is no big deal. It could also account for the price. If you see misalignments and don't get a confirming answer to "Any mishaps?", walk away.
Also, just inside say a trunk lid, look for a tape line embedded in the paint, where the section was masked. Again, honest story along with, is okay.
5) Any fluids, except around the engine drain plug (if they have paperwork showing the oil changes at a business); walk away.
6) When cool, open the radiator cap, and look for absolutely spotless insides. Any sign of crud, deposits, or worse rust; walk away. If you see puss like globs the engine has a blown head gasket; run away.
7) Examine the paint on the most exposed surfaces; such as, roof, trunk lid, hood for any indication that the paint is fading, cracking, wearing away. That means they didn't wax the car regularly. They didn't care about their baby car.
 

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I don't see how that's a good deal. Mine would be a better deal and lower mileage for $10,500.

You said you're looking for an E90 328. You found a coupe so E92. I have a real E90, sedan 2011 328i XDrive:


6-speed manual
57,900 miles
Titanium Silver Metallic
Beige Dakota Leather
Base model... not M sport.
Heated front seats, iPod plug in + USB ($500 and $400 option IIRC)

Again base model so no moonroof, no power seats, no gizmo TV screen. But it's a great car and low mileage for an 8 yr old car. Not modified, not raced, everything is stock.

Clean car, excellent condition. No accidents. I bought it with 46k miles when it still had 1 yr left on CPO warranty from a private party (an airline pilot like myself). Oil changes at my local BMW dealer. I did my own engine air filter and cabin air filter (very easy to do in this car). In the last year, new rear brakes and rotors, all 6 spark plugs changed, and also changed coil for cylinder 5. Tires are great condition and depth, run flat ContiProContacts. Car doesn't need any work, up to date. Both recalls for blower motor wiring and PCV heater wire were completed at my local BMW dealer.


I just moved to LA from NJ. The company paid to ship both my cars. It's here now, I just need to change my NJ license, plates, title and get California's. I should be able to do that in the next week or two.
 

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Looks nice, and for me, the stick shift is a big plus and hard to find. At 77k miles, the two door is about due for an electric water pump, and you might want to do that as preventative maintenance. That is not a show stopper by any means.
 
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