Bimmerfest BMW banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently DIY'd the alternator bracket gasket as well as Bank 2 (Cyl. 5-8) timing cover and valve cover gaskets.

Now, after driving it about 40 miles with no major issues, I am getting several errors:
  • The low oil pressure light will flash on and off after a few minutes of driving at highway speeds. I have checked the oil levels, and there are no leaks and the level on the dip stick is fine.
  • I am getting P0021 and P0024 codes which have to do with Bank 2 timing (great, I broke something) as well as several misfire codes, which I assume are related to the timing codes.

Can anyone help me explain this? I am wondering if maybe the valve cover gasket isn't sealed properly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,290 Posts
It’s possible you rolled the VCG. The oil pressure switch is a known failure point on that engine and can be replaced for $5. Did you complete the valvetronic motor calibration after the VCG installation?


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Wouldn’t I be experiencing a pretty gnarly leak if I rolled the VFG? Besides if the oil levels are fine I don’t think that would spring a low pressure light.

I’m thinking about replacing the switch just to rule it out.

As far as valvetronic calibration, I turned the key on and off for 30 seconds before starting the engine. Is there something else I should’ve done?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Also, I erased the timing codes and I took it for a trial on the highway and they haven’t come back. Do you think that indicates an imperfectly sealed VCG?

** updated - P0021 code is pending.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,235 Posts
Most timing codes are related to the Vanos solenoids not being seated properly. Since the engine is running that way, it does not sound like it is a major problem, such as bad wiring at the solenoids. The wires get brittle on the intake over time, and start breaking down. Check to make sure your wiring is good by turning the ignition without cranking the engine. Check each side of the Vanos plug, one side should read 12 volts, & the other around 2.84 volts. This is using the VOM with one side grounded to the engine, & the other side to the plug connectors. If the Vanos system was not operating properly, the car would hardly go down the road. Codes are a common issue when removing the fuel rails to get the valve cover off. Also check your connections to your camshaft sensors to make sure they don't have oil inside of the connections.

As far as the oil light going off, it sounds like something could have gotten in the oil system tubing, causing the oil pressure to go off when you are braking hard, or throwing around the car on a curve to fast. You can remove the bottom oil pan which only takes a few minutes, & check the oil screen to see if it has contaminants blocking the screen. My oil light went off a couple a weeks ago, the 1st time in 2 years. You can by a adapter the same size as the oil pressure sensor, & blow the system out with high volume air. This cleared mine for 2 years. You can blow thru the bottom of the oil filter, the oil pump itself, the 4 check valves at the front of the engine, & where the oil pressure sensor screws in. Mine went off this time after working on the vacuum pump seal, & I am starting to think that the quality of the sensors might be the problem. The oil light is set to go off at 8 psi, which is just plain scary! I am going to pull my oil pan shortly do to the gasket leaking at the rear of the pan, & will inspect everything very close while it is off. With the adapter, you can add a T at the fitting, & hook up a oil pressure gauge. I ran mine for several years, & removed it since I never saw it get below 13 psi. If you don't have a oil pressure test kit, Harbor Freight has one for around 15.00. It comes with several fittings, but not the one you will need. Order 2 of the adapters, at around 12.00 each. I think this adapter is actually made for a GM LSx engine. You could also put your old sensor back in, & see if the problem goes away?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Most timing codes are related to the Vanos solenoids not being seated properly. Since the engine is running that way, it does not sound like it is a major problem, such as bad wiring at the solenoids. The wires get brittle on the intake over time, and start breaking down. Check to make sure your wiring is good by turning the ignition without cranking the engine. Check each side of the Vanos plug, one side should read 12 volts, & the other around 2.84 volts. This is using the VOM with one side grounded to the engine, & the other side to the plug connectors. If the Vanos system was not operating properly, the car would hardly go down the road. Codes are a common issue when removing the fuel rails to get the valve cover off. Also check your connections to your camshaft sensors to make sure they don't have oil inside of the connections.

As far as the oil light going off, it sounds like something could have gotten in the oil system tubing, causing the oil pressure to go off when you are braking hard, or throwing around the car on a curve to fast. You can remove the bottom oil pan which only takes a few minutes, & check the oil screen to see if it has contaminants blocking the screen. My oil light went off a couple a weeks ago, the 1st time in 2 years. You can by a adapter the same size as the oil pressure sensor, & blow the system out with high volume air. This cleared mine for 2 years. You can blow thru the bottom of the oil filter, the oil pump itself, the 4 check valves at the front of the engine, & where the oil pressure sensor screws in. Mine went off this time after working on the vacuum pump seal, & I am starting to think that the quality of the sensors might be the problem. The oil light is set to go off at 8 psi, which is just plain scary! I am going to pull my oil pan shortly do to the gasket leaking at the rear of the pan, & will inspect everything very close while it is off. With the adapter, you can add a T at the fitting, & hook up a oil pressure gauge. I ran mine for several years, & removed it since I never saw it get below 13 psi. If you don't have a oil pressure test kit, Harbor Freight has one for around 15.00. It comes with several fittings, but not the one you will need. Order 2 of the adapters, at around 12.00 each. I think this adapter is actually made for a GM LSx engine. You could also put your old sensor back in, & see if the problem goes away?
Herb, this is helpful. I was wondering if it might be just a connection issue to one of the Cam position sensors (since I had to move them around as I was changing the VCG). I saw an electronics cleaner at NAPA the other day - it’s a spray like brake cleaner. Do you recommend that I try to clean my connections using something like that?

also, should I try to reinstall my VANOS solenoids? I changed the o-rings when I had them out, it’s possible they aren’t installed correctly as I am an amateur.

oil issues - is it common to have debris clogging the system? If there is debris, would changing the oil pressure switch solve nothing?

another update:

I just took it out for a drive with no issues until I accelerated hard out of a red light (I want to provoke the issue)

I got a P0024 code - which is the exhaust Cam Shaft.
I also got a misfire on cylinder 4 and 2, which is strange because all my issues have been with bank 2.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,235 Posts
Electronics cleaner will not hurt anything, it is ok to use that. No brake cleaner! Since you have been doing all of the work, have you charged the battery, low voltage will cause misfires. Try spraying both sides of the camshaft sensor while you are cleaning it. Did you by chance have any problems getting the ECC shaft sensor thru the valve cover why removing it? Compare the Vanos solenoids to the ones on bank 1, just to see if you got them all of the way in. I usually take a 1x2 piece of wood, place it on the solenoid, & tap it in with a hammer. If the solenoids are not seated properly, you will usually see a lot of timing issues.

Changing the oil pressure sensor will cost you a hour or less, & if the problem goes away, it confirms my suspicion that the sensors do not have good quality control. If there is debris inside of the motor, it most likely came from silicone used installing the valve cover. The oil pump strainer should stop this, but it does happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Regarding the battery - I disconnected during the seal changes, and I was getting a power steering light when I first started it up. So, it’s possible the battery is just low. It’s worth noting that the various misfires and timing codes are very sporadic, so I don’t think I screwed anything up too badly.

Eccentric Shaft Sensor: I had no issues, but it is clear the person before me did have issues. One of the tabs is broken off, but the other is intact. I have read from several other threads that the sensor can still function with only one tab. I also made sure to run the recalibration several times, and the valvetronic servo motors never had any major issues that would indicate a bad sensor. Further, the car drove great before I worked on the valve cover, so I’m assuming no issue.

Another thing: when I’m out for drives, there is a faint clacking from the engine bay that increases in pace with RPMs It’s not loud, and I can only hear it from inside the cabin with the windows closed. To me, it sounds like the fuel injectors pinging, and the engine runs fine otherwise. I just wanted to make sure this isn’t anything abnormal.

Okay, my to-do list for this week:
- clean all connections and ensure VANOS solenoids are properly installed. when I installed the solenoids the first time, I relied on the retaining clips to push them in all the way - so I will try to tap them in before applying the clips.

- blow air through oil system and possibly change the pressure switch in the process. The car could use an oil change anyways, so it’s probably just good practice to flush out the system following any major seal work.
 

·
Habitual User
Joined
·
884 Posts
Toenail,

OK...I shoulda clicked on this link...

Concur on the OP sensor.
I have always fixed it by cleaning the contacts.

Also, 5 points for using "gnarly" in a post.

Keep at it!
Also impressed that a Super M joined the discussion.

Best,
Tom
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,235 Posts
While you have the oil out of the pan, drop the lower oil pan & check the strainer. You can reuse the existing pan gasket, as mine has not leaked in 2 years. It is very easy to remove, & worth looking at the strainer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Will do Herb, thanks for your help. I will report back on this thread with the results.

Do I have to move the throttle body and intake manifold to access the check valves at the front of the block?

also, when blowing air through the system, is it okay to just use a standard air nozzle? Or is better to create a seal with a bigger nozzle?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,868 Posts
I don't think the manifold needs to come off but you will need to remove the throttle body so make sure you have a new gasket to hand P.No 13547510433, not sure on what car you have (may have missed it) but both pre and post LCI cars used the same one.

Throttle body removal and refit is part of this DIY and I believe the torque specs for the four throttle body bolts are there also.

There's 6 non return valves, two for the Vanos and one for the Cylinder head per bank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Ran an oil pressure test today - 40 psi at idle when the engine is cold, 15-18 when it warms up.

however. I will still be dropping the oil pan to check out the screen - because the light would flicker sporadically.

In other news: my drivers side timing cover is leaking now, which might explain the lower pressure range.

since I replaced all the gaskets on the other side, I must’ve pushed the pressure over to the other side?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,290 Posts
Ran an oil pressure test today - 40 psi at idle when the engine is cold, 15-18 when it warms up.

however. I will still be dropping the oil pan to check out the screen - because the light would flicker sporadically.

In other news: my drivers side timing cover is leaking now, which might explain the lower pressure range.

since I replaced all the gaskets on the other side, I must’ve pushed the pressure over to the other side?
Unless it’s a bad leak I don’t see the timing cover causing an oil pressure issue. The oil pressure issues are usually caused by blocked lines from my understanding of this engine. What are you planning to do with the BMW when you figure it out?


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Unless it’s a bad leak I don’t see the timing cover causing an oil pressure issue. The oil pressure issues are usually caused by blocked lines from my understanding of this engine. What are you planning to do with the BMW when you figure it out?


Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app
You’re probably right. It’s not a huge leak.

My wife and I will keep it for a time as a pleasure driver (we’ve never owned a vehicle this fast and refined, so we love it) but I would like to sell it eventually and move on to another project.

I see this as a learning experience - I’m a white collar worker, but I have an obsession for cars. I figured I would never learn unless I took a risk.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,235 Posts
There are only 4 check valves at the front of the head. You will need to remove the TB to get to the check valves out. It still tricky getting to a couple of the check valve. If you have a high volume air compressor, this will work fast, as you need a big blast of air to clear the control line. If you don't have a rubber tip air gun, push it all the way down to the bottom area at the bottom of the check valve. I think that the link below is the adapter for the oil pressure sensor, if you want to add a oil pressure test gauge up. Ebay want let me see the orders from 2018. There is a pressure port in the drivers side upper timing cover gasket, around the left middle side of the cover. If it is leaking there, it would be pouring oil out. The oil pressure at idle is usually ok, the problem is when you let off the engine & brake hard, or throw it thru a hard turn at speed. I just read where you tested the oil pressure, so you might not need the adapter below?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Herb,

I do have a compressor - I will look into a rubber nozzle.

i think my timing cover leak is just some seepage around the gasket, as the leak is very slow. I suppose I will need to go ahead and do the passenger side Valve Cover Gasket too.

The guy before me had an independent shop do the passenger side VCG - and they really botched it. It looks like they broke the Eccentric Shaft Sensor tabs and then glued the connector to the sensor. So I will probably need to purchase a new sensor.

Regarding the oil pressure test:

I ended up finding an old thread in the 7-series forum and found the specs for the adapter in the link above - got one from Amazon.

should my idling oil pressure go up whenever I blow the system out?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,235 Posts
Herb,

I do have a compressor - I will look into a rubber nozzle.

i think my timing cover leak is just some seepage around the gasket, as the leak is very slow. I suppose I will need to go ahead and do the passenger side Valve Cover Gasket too.

The guy before me had an independent shop do the passenger side VCG - and they really botched it. It looks like they broke the Eccentric Shaft Sensor tabs and then glued the connector to the sensor. So I will probably need to purchase a new sensor.

Regarding the oil pressure test:

I ended up finding an old thread in the 7-series forum and found the specs for the adapter in the link above - got one from Amazon.

should my idling oil pressure go up whenever I blow the system out?
Not sure what " blow the system out " means. The oil pressure at idle should be around 13 psi at idle, & the OP sensor goes off at 8 psi. As engine RPM's increase, the oil pressure will rise with the RPM's. If you use the adapter, put a T on the adapter, & hook a oil pressure gauge to verify the pressure, & keep the sensor on as well. This way if the OP light comes on, you can verify if this is a bad sensor, wiring problem, or you have OP problems in the engine. You don't want to blow up the engine, as this will get very expensive fast! I have parked mine until I change the upper & lower oil pan gaskets, & take another good look around the engine. The oil pump should never fail, but it is possible. Also if you are going to drive it, pay attention to see if any oil is actually leaking out of the motor. I am going to wait for cooler weather, since the upper oil pan gasket is going to be a PITA to change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Not sure what " blow the system out " means. The oil pressure at idle should be around 13 psi at idle, & the OP sensor goes off at 8 psi. As engine RPM's increase, the oil pressure will rise with the RPM's. If you use the adapter, put a T on the adapter, & hook a oil pressure gauge to verify the pressure, & keep the sensor on as well. This way if the OP light comes on, you can verify if this is a bad sensor, wiring problem, or you have OP problems in the engine. You don't want to blow up the engine, as this will get very expensive fast! I have parked mine until I change the upper & lower oil pan gaskets, & take another good look around the engine. The oil pump should never fail, but it is possible. Also if you are going to drive it, pay attention to see if any oil is actually leaking out of the motor. I am going to wait for cooler weather, since the upper oil pan gasket is going to be a PITA to change.
Blowing air through the oil system. I am going to do that today - do you have a recommended PSI? I dont want to harm anything - so i am thinking about 50 psi with a rubber nozzle.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top