Read the P-codes and report back.
It's my turn for the E39 TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG transmission failure stuck in high gear
Bad news on the eve of a long road trip to Tahoe this weekend!
It's suddenly and unexpectantly my turn for the E39 TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG transmission failure error message.
After fueling up so that I'm ready to leave before dawn early Friday morning, the automatic transmission wouldn't shift out of high gear and showed the dreaded TRANS FAILSAFE PROG error message on the cluster.
Changing plans, I cancelled my errands and immediately limped home about a dozen miles after the message; so here's all that I know so far ...
My symptoms are:
- The transmission fluid is original. Green sticker. 121,871 miles. I've never checked the ATF level.
- There were no prior symptoms. <== EDIT: In hindsight, the last two stops at lights seemed very sluggish, but I only thought about it afterward.
- The transmission appears to be stuck in high gear (perhaps it's 5th gear, I don't know). <== EDIT: Limp mode is apparently 4th gear, i.e., 1:1 ratio
- It does not shift up or down, even under very high load (e.g., starting from stopped, or climbing a hill).
- Putting the automatic transmission in manual mode changes nothing - it won't shift manually either <== EDIT: And it shows an "S" instead of "M" in the cluster.
- At one point, I couldn't even move the shift lever out of D while driving or with the vehicle stopped; but now it's parked and in the P position.
- Electrical system is, AFAIK, good; but I will check anyway. <== EDIT: Autozone subsequently tested the charging & starting system as good.
- The problem "feels" very mechanical, at least by the clear and obvious baulkiness of the shift lever.
I've never done much with everyone elses' TRANS FAILSAFE PROG error other than to point them to the VERY best of E39 Links ... so that's exactly what I'll do first.
- How people tested & resolved transmission "Trans Failsafe Program", aka "Limp Mode" (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17)
But I figured I'd start a thread, to ask for advice and to document the diagnostic scenario.
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It's suddenly and unexpectantly my turn for the E39 TRANS. FAILSAFE PROG transmission failure error message.
After fueling up so that I'm ready to leave before dawn early Friday morning, the automatic transmission wouldn't shift out of high gear and showed the dreaded TRANS FAILSAFE PROG error message on the cluster.
Changing plans, I cancelled my errands and immediately limped home about a dozen miles after the message; so here's all that I know so far ...
My symptoms are:
- The transmission fluid is original. Green sticker. 121,871 miles. I've never checked the ATF level.
- There were no prior symptoms. <== EDIT: In hindsight, the last two stops at lights seemed very sluggish, but I only thought about it afterward.
- The transmission appears to be stuck in high gear (perhaps it's 5th gear, I don't know). <== EDIT: Limp mode is apparently 4th gear, i.e., 1:1 ratio
- It does not shift up or down, even under very high load (e.g., starting from stopped, or climbing a hill).
- Putting the automatic transmission in manual mode changes nothing - it won't shift manually either <== EDIT: And it shows an "S" instead of "M" in the cluster.
- At one point, I couldn't even move the shift lever out of D while driving or with the vehicle stopped; but now it's parked and in the P position.
- Electrical system is, AFAIK, good; but I will check anyway. <== EDIT: Autozone subsequently tested the charging & starting system as good.
- The problem "feels" very mechanical, at least by the clear and obvious baulkiness of the shift lever.
I've never done much with everyone elses' TRANS FAILSAFE PROG error other than to point them to the VERY best of E39 Links ... so that's exactly what I'll do first.
- How people tested & resolved transmission "Trans Failsafe Program", aka "Limp Mode" (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17)
But I figured I'd start a thread, to ask for advice and to document the diagnostic scenario.
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I found this GREAT advice here somewhere.......good luck with the seconds part. 
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
Heh heh ... those two links are a taste of Fudman's and my own medicine.
The good news is that try to document and report back the results from every suggestion, so, this thread (hopefully) will be one that others can follow, as long as good advice is given, and taken.
Unfortunately, all I have handy is a basic OBD scanner which reports only a pending P0171 which I don't think is the problem:
- All OBDII codes, including BMW-specific P1xxx DTCs specific to the engine computer of each BMW (1)
- P0171,227,System Too Lean (Bank 1)
From that link above, the P0171 is merely a lean condition code (I haven't had an SES since I fixed myriad vacuum leaks on 2/17/2013 at 117,293 miles):
- One user's convoluted quest to find & fix persistent intermittent misfire set of lean condition vacuum leaks P0313 P0300 P1353 P1083 P1085 P1351 P0171 P0174 (1)
Drat. I don't have a BMW-specific code reader; I just have the recommended el-cheapo OBD scanner:
- Cheapest CAN OBDII scanner on the net that reads DTCs, pending codes, & clears codes
Many years ago, when my 2002 525i was still under warranty, I bought Carsoft 6 to unset the auto-doorlock "feature":
- Description of Carsoft, GT1, INPA, DIS, EDIABAS, & Peake (1) & which can modify the auto-lock car door feature (1)
But, I never used it (because Carsoft 6 doesn't unset the auto-doorlock feature!):
- What does Carsoft do anyway (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)
I still have the Carsoft 6 OBD cable, but long ago my serial-port computers died.
Unfortunately, I don't have an OBD-to-USB cable and all my WinXP/Win7 PCs are USB only.
If I do get a hold of a USB cable, which of the following (INPA, NPA, EDIABAS, NCS Expert, DIS, EasyDIS, Progman) would be best to read the transmission codes?
- Making sense of the most often recommended BMW diagnostic tools & cable interfaces (1)
It's about two hours since I returned home after aborting my morning errands due to this error.
Going back to the car, I belatedly realized I had left the key in position 2 for about an hour (after having cleared the OBD codes). Drat.
Anyway, after that, I found the voltage to be a bit on the low side:
- Key out of the ignition: 11.90 VDC
- At idle speed: (TBD WIP)
Thanks Fudman, for taking the time to explain that. I wasn't sure what gear I was stuck in!
All I knew was that it wasn't first gear because the engine was lugging at starts and when going uphill.
In fact, when I moved the shift lever left while in "D", to put it in manual mode, it easily moved into manual mode - but the gears did not show up on the dash. What showed up was this "S" as shown below (but it wouldn't manually shift no matter what I did with the shift lever).
I will check alt & battery at autozone, later on today (and report results back).
Here's the vintage of the alternator and battery (currently at 121,871 miles):
- Bosch 120amp rebuilt alternator was replaced 7/26/2010 at 91,264 miles (i.e., 30,607 miles ago):
- One users' example of total electrical failure (AAA towed away) alternator repair (1)
- Duralast DL-49 battery was replaced 9/19/2011 at 102,894 miles (i.e., 18,977 miles ago):
Hmmmm... it's a dry day, but the car was parked outside and had dew all over it in the morning (I had lent it out and the person who borrowed it didn't have the garage code).
I reset the one pending P code that I had.
I was able to find my old, unused Carsoft 6 kit - but it's missing the software.
Also, the Carsoft 6 cable is a serial port cable but I haven't had a serial port computer for many years.
I can download INPA from here - but I'd have to get a WinXP/Win7 USB cable first:
- Making sense of the most often recommended BMW diagnostic tools & cable interfaces (1)
Notice, once parked in the garage, the ambient temperature shows in Celcius (maybe I accidentally changed it?).
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If you want really easy few click install INPA, DIS etc. buy BM technic cable. Since you got facelift e39 you only need the 16 pin OBD cable. BM technic cable + software is £46.99 + £8.00 P&P (world wide shipping). That is ~$88, but that should be totally hassle free install. Should work without hassle even on Win7 64 bit.Unfortunately, all I have handy is a basic OBD scanner which reports only a pending P0171 which I don't think is the problem: P0171,227,System Too Lean (Bank 1),
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I do have a carsoft 6 OBD cable, but no serial-port computers anymore.
I don't have any other OBD cable (hence no INPA, EDIABAS, etc.); but if I have to load the diagnostic software, I can (but I only have WinXP & Win7 USB PCs).
~120,000 miles is exact miles when these transmissions start to fail
my failed on ~119,000
GT1 is the way to go but try just disconnect battery for > 30 min
this might reset your car brain for sometime
my failed on ~119,000
GT1 is the way to go but try just disconnect battery for > 30 min
this might reset your car brain for sometime
I've always been confused WHICH USB cable to get for my 2002 OBD-only E39, mainly because none of the sellers tell you what's going on with pin 8:
- Preferred cable:
- K+CAN with the Primary K-Line on pin 7 (for the engine & gearbox); and with the secondary K-Line on pin 8 (for all else)
- Less-preferred cable:
- K+DCAN with the Primary K-Line on pin 7 (for the engine & gearbox); and with the secondary K-Line on pin 8 (for all else)
- Not preferred cable:
- K+DCAN with Pin 8 removed (which then needs an adapter to restore the 2nd K-Line)
Do you think this $40 serial-to-usb converter cable will work with that on INPA on a Windows PC?
- Staples USB-to-Serial Adapter, Item: 837560 Model: 18762
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No people don't seem to get the ADS cable to work with serial adapters. BTW why would you want to get serial cable? E39 doesn't need serial cable. Only older BMWs need serial ADS cable(early E36, E34, early E38 etc.). So you'll be perfectly fine with cheap usb obd cable. On facelift car like yours, there isin't even even need for the 20 pin adapter. So you only need a cable like this for you car.I've always been confused WHICH USB cable to get for my 2002 OBD-only E39!
The only OBD cable I have is the Carsoft 6 OBD-to-serial cable.
Do you think this $40 serial-to-usb converter cable will work with that on INPA on a Windows PC?
- Staples USB-to-Serial Adapter, Item: 837560 Model: 18762
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I don't want a serial cable; but that's all I have at hand this moment.
What I want is a USB cable, so I can use it with INPA.
See what I mean? I looked at that listing, but it doesn't say a thing about how the two K lines are configured:
- Preferred cable (with double k-line support):
- K+CAN with the Primary K-Line on pin 7 (for the engine & gearbox); and with the secondary K-Line on pin 8 (for all else)
- Less-preferred cable:
- K+DCAN with the Primary K-Line on pin 7 (for the engine & gearbox); and with the secondary K-Line on pin 8 (for all else)
- Non-preferred cable:
- K+DCAN with Pin 8 removed (which then needs an adapter to restore the 2nd K-Line)
They don't have the 49-DL anymore.
But, they say mine is warranted for $127.52 until mid September.
They'll sell me one of these, as a replacement, if my battery tests bad:
- H8 ==> $130-127=$3 + 8.75% tax on $130 = $14.37
- 94R ==> $165-127=$38 + 8.75% tax on $165 = $52.44
- H7 ==> $180-127=$53 + 8.75% tax on $180 = $68.75
- H8 ==> $130-105=$25 (plus 8.75% tax on $130 which is another $11.38)
Googling, I think we can fit any battery of size H7, 49 (aka DIN H8), 94, 95 (aka DIN H9) ... as long as it's at least 850CCA, 720Amps, and 90AH.
EDIT: After charging the battery, I drove to Autozone:
The voltage seemed OK on the cluster while driving to Autozone (also notice the temperature switched back to Fahrenheit):
And, Autozone confirmed the battery seemed to be just fine:
They put a load on the battery - and - it passed:
Then we started the car - and they tested the alternator.
It too passed all three tests:
I'm not sure what is going on - but - now - suddenly - the transmission seems to be back to working properly, even when put in manual mode:
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From memory ...
Car was borrowed by a friend, and returned in the middle of the night and left outside (she didn't have the garage code). In the morning, the car was dew covered (no big deal ... just mentioning because of "wet sensors" comment prior), when I started it up to head into town to stock up for the trip. Stopped once for a few minutes after about six miles, and (in hindsight) I had barely noticed the car didn't accelerate - but I didn't think much of it at the time. Stopped again at a long light, and (belatedly) noticed again, it wouldn't accelerate. Gassed the vehicle, and at that point, I finally, for the first time, overtly noticed it was starting in high gear, and for the first time, the Transmission Failsafe message appeared. Also the shift lever wouldn't shift out of Drive for the first time. By now, I was in full limp mode. Drove the dozen miles back home in limp mode, and noticed I couldn't manually shift ("S" showed instead of "M"). At some point, I stopped (and left the vehicle idling), but the shift lever would NOT move out of Drive, so I put the E-brake on tightly. Back home, the car shifted out of Drive when I shut the engine down. Snapped a few photos of the failsafe message, and began this thread asking for advice. One oddity was that the cluster temporarily shifted into Centigrade temperature readings. I'm not sure if that's from me touching the cluster to get readouts, or not, but it's back in Fahrenheit even though I didn't overtly switch the gauge settings.
Yes. This appears to be what happened to me.
It did seem to be in a 'high' gear; although I don't really know which gear.
I did gas the vehicle - which would have taken about 5 to 10 minutes with the engine off. I did not shut it down again until I arrived home though.
I very often shift into neutral, mostly for the fun of it, when rolling down long hills, even at 70mph.
I think I'll finally spring for the OBD USB cable and see if I can read the transmission codes next time.
The hard part is finding a seller who will state whether it's a double K line or not.
When I arrived home, mine was a bit low, at 11.90 volts with the key out of the ignition; but when I charged it and took it to Autozone, both the battery and alternator tested as "good".
I will keep a sharp eye on it all as I'm leaving at 5am on Friday (the Bay Bridge is closed, so traffic might be horrendous) for a weekend drive to Tahoe with friends - and - that's a big mountain to climb!
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It's on my list, after the huge leaks in the windshield wiper system, seat twist, front window regulator making strange noises, and strange FSU issues which are all pending in the queue (my repairs take longer than most).
Plus, there's that age-old argument to not disturb the crud in the automatic transmission:
- ATF: Automatic transmission fluid (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & automatic transmission fluid & filter DIYs (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & torque values (1) & how to find the hidden E39 transmission fluid level dipstick (1) & why ATF gushes out of the fill hole (1) & ZF 5HP19 facts (1)
Yes. The strange thing is that it sure felt hugely mechanical when I couldn't even get the shift lever out of drive! But, now, it's as if nothing happened.
Yes. The cluster showed "S" instead of "M + the five gears"; and the ambient temperature showed Celcius, but, interestingly, after charging the battery, the ambient is back to Fahrenheit on the cluster.
Note: 40.5ºC is 105ºF
I only thought about it after the fact, so, I could be wrong. But that's how I remember it.
I searched last night for USB cables. The problem is how to figure out those with double K lines (pins 7 and 8) since no seller seems to mention this apparently important fact.
The problem, if I understand it correctly, is that the K+DCAN cable must have double-k-line support (pins 7 and 8). For me to buy a cable without knowing whether it has double-k-line support is difficult. I hate guessing.
NOTE: I want to change my automatic door locks also, so, I would want full functionality in the cable for my 2002; but I don't need it to work on any other bimmer.
I need to buy two more jack stands from Harbor Freight, and then I will put the car up on all four, and take a look.
Interesting.
I'll bring my DMM with me to Tahoe (leaving at 5am tomorrow).
If the failsafe mode kicks back in, climbing the Sierra Nevada mountains is sure to put a load on the transmission!
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