BimmerFest BMW Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My apologies to those who have seen this post over at Roadfly...

I got a set (4) of jack stands and I now want to put the Coupe on them so I can detail the rims and wheel wells (and check for the bump stops :yikes:). One doubt, and I did search archives and Ron Stygar's page, if we are supposed to jack the car up and put the jack stands in the same place that the jack goes, then how do you accomplish this?! If I lift from the jacking point near the rear tire, I can lift the entire side of the car (and place the front jack stand), but where do I then put the jack to place the jack stand in the rear jacking plate :dunno: Any suggestions or ideas? No, I do not have the ramps, just some nasty cement floor (sort of flat...:confused: ) and a 2 ton hydraulic jack
 

·
into things retro
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
Maybe this can help . . .

Here's Ron's post here on B'fest:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8557

What I saw HACK do was jack each side of the front and put a ramp under each front tire (would it work just as well with jacks?) and then with the front up, jacked the rear of the car from the center brace near the differential and place a jackstand at the rear tire jack points.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, but...

I did not want to start removing panels from the car and cutting stuff up. I am going to use a 2x4 and jack it from the middle of the 2 jacking points :eek: Insert the jackstands, lower it, then do the other side in the same manner (I am hoping I can get the jack in the other side when its on the two stands in one side :confused:
 

·
Rest in peace, Coach
Joined
·
9,106 Posts
The trick is, you have to move your hands REALLY fast, once you got your car jacked up from the jack points you can do one of those magician sly-of-hands thing and pull the floorjack off and put the jackstand on in one smooth motion. :lmao:

All KIDDING aside...

To jack up the rear of the car, you can use the differential attach mount right behind the diff, or the subframe reinforcement bracket if said bracket is present on your car. It should be a U shaped bracket directly in front of your diff. This will allow you to lift up both rear wheels and place two jackstands underneath the factory jack points.

To jack up the front, there should be either a small round rubber extrusion right SMACK in between the center of both front wheels, or a small round/squarish bump on the front reinforcement bracket that you can use as a jack point for the floor jack. Just be very careful, the reinforcement bracket is made of light weight aluminum and isn't as strong as tempered steel. Make sure you put a thick towel, a rubber mat, or some sort of hard urethane cup on your floor jack's cup to prevent it from crushing the reinforcentment bracket. You should be able to lift the front up and place jackstands underneath the jack points on the side.

ALWAYS jack up the front first, because if you jack up the rear first you won't be able to slip a floor jack underneath the front spoiler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks!

Will experiment and see what works out the best. I want to see how many shipping blocks were left on the springs. :rolleyes:
 

·
into things retro
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
Hey HACK

What Gus is looking for - the shipping blocks - is looking for those something we could demo on the 17th at the Z car tech session? :dunno:
 

·
Rest in peace, Coach
Joined
·
9,106 Posts
Re: Hey HACK

scottn2retro said:
What Gus is looking for - the shipping blocks - is looking for those something we could demo on the 17th at the Z car tech session? :dunno:
You should be able to see the shipping blocks by just taking off the wheel.

Might want to do a search on bimmer.org for "shipping block", somebody posted a picture of one, it's a beige color wood/plastic PEG with ridges in them (why the ridges, I don't know).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Its common!

I took my car over to my friend's shop. Got it on the lift and removed the 2 rear tires. Guess what... No shipping doughnuts on the driver side and 2 of them on the passenger side! Was I surprised? NO! They look like hockey pucks, except smaller. In my case, they were black rubber. I am guessing 3" diameter, by 2" thick. Since they were not mangled up and a lot of people have reported that it actually handles better with them on, I took and left one on each side. Car handles much better when turning left. Someday I will take them out and do the same route to see if there is any difference or not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,073 Posts
The HACK said:
To jack up the front, there should be either a small round rubber extrusion right SMACK in between the center of both front wheels, or a small round/squarish bump on the front reinforcement bracket that you can use as a jack point for the floor jack.
There is, but you will not see it on S54 Z3 cars. You will have to cut (or remove) the lower aero cowling in order to access the jack point. You will have to do this while the car is on ramps, then you can use a jack after cowling is removed. Search bimmerfest archives. Ron made a copper removeable panel with one of the nutserts from the E36 ti/Z3 X-brace installation. I will copy this design when I cut my panel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,073 Posts
scottn2retro said:
Opinions anybody -

The shipping blocks left in the car - Is that a common problem or a 'once in a blue moon' type thing?
Common. My car had 4 on driver's side, 2 on passengers. All rear. There are blocks for the front, but mine were all removed. The forward ones are white plastic. Aft are black rubber. Pic is on Ron's site. Click 'images' link and search.
 

·
Rest in peace, Coach
Joined
·
9,106 Posts
JonM said:


There is, but you will not see it on S54 Z3 cars. You will have to cut (or remove) the lower aero cowling in order to access the jack point. You will have to do this while the car is on ramps, then you can use a jack after cowling is removed. Search bimmerfest archives. Ron made a copper removeable panel with one of the nutserts from the E36 ti/Z3 X-brace installation. I will copy this design when I cut my panel.
Thanks Jon, that's nice to know...I never jacked up my old Z3 1.9L so I wasn't aware of the space limitations underneath the E36/7 platform.

When I changed my friend's E46 M3 oil I don't recall there being an obvious jack point as well (I used ramps). Maybe it's an M thing.
 

·
into things retro
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
Shipping blocks

Hmmm . . . I'd be interested to know if people really think the car handles better with the rear ones left in.

If so, and my car doesn't have them, where can I get them (ask people on .org that have removed them?)? And since it can be sold at a dealer delivered that way, could I consider them factory for competing in M Stock class? :angel:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
I'm not sure if leaving/putting the pads in will improve handling. They will essentially act as bump stops, limiting the travel of the coil. The problem is that when you start hitting the pads, the progression of weight transfer would be abrupt... could that lead to poorer handling?

If you like the lack of body-roll in hard cornering, seems like the right solution is to install heavier anti-roll bars ... or stiffer coils. In either case here, the weight-transfer would be progressive.

Ground-Control has a tech article that touches on this... related to the front-end, but applicable to the rear as well:
GC - bottoming out...

Just something to think about.
 

·
into things retro
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
You are correct of course . . .

there are a lot better ways to improve the suspension, but in our chapter, the rules to stay in M stock class are pretty strict (and I'm not foolish enough as a rookie to think I can take on the guys who have been running for years in the M Modified). :)
 

·
into things retro
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
It's at the dealer

While it's in there for the 1200 mile service, I asked them to check for the shipping blocks - not to remove them - just let me know if they're there. We'll see :dunno:
 

·
M Mad
Joined
·
10,475 Posts
JonM said:
I bought jack stands from Ron. They are ideal for E36/E46/Z3. If you use Pep Boys jack stands or Sears or whatever, the car can slip off more easily and/or you can destroy your factory jack pads.

More info here
$220 for jack stands? Ouch. I know Ron does nice work, but WOW.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top