Jerk Coming to a stop
Hello,
I have gone through so many articles trying to figure out a solution to the jerk of my car.
History:
My car jerks like I got hit from behind when it comes to a stop and it jerks when the MPH hits 5mph which is im guessing when the car goes to first gear. I had to reprogrammed at a local BMW shop and the jerk was not as prominent but it was still there. I took it to another shop and they reprogrammed it again and it seemed to have made the jerkiness worst. I then just got so tired of it that I took it to the BMW dealer. They have checked it out and reset adaptations etc and it definitely made it better and once again it is still there and they said the only way of repairing this issue is by replacing the transmission which is around 10k. It is not worth spending that much. After I picked it up from the dealer, it jerks only when the car starts to run normal temperature whether it being AC on or OFF. It once again has a minimal jerk but still does it when I slow down and MPH hits 5mph. After I picked it up from the dealer it most of the time jerks but minimally and sometimes it doesn't jerk at all.
I am a bit confused on what really is the issue and hoping someone in these forums has come up with a solution or if someone is having the same issue. I have gone through so many articles and they are all dated around 2005 - 2013 the latest. I am just wondering if anyone has a solution now that it is 2016
Only thing I have not tried is changing the transmission oil.
Looking for some assistance.
Car: 06 525i
Transmission: Automatic
Miles: 143,xxx
Trans fluid has not been changed.
Spark plugs has been changed
I have gone through so many articles trying to figure out a solution to the jerk of my car.
History:
My car jerks like I got hit from behind when it comes to a stop and it jerks when the MPH hits 5mph which is im guessing when the car goes to first gear. I had to reprogrammed at a local BMW shop and the jerk was not as prominent but it was still there. I took it to another shop and they reprogrammed it again and it seemed to have made the jerkiness worst. I then just got so tired of it that I took it to the BMW dealer. They have checked it out and reset adaptations etc and it definitely made it better and once again it is still there and they said the only way of repairing this issue is by replacing the transmission which is around 10k. It is not worth spending that much. After I picked it up from the dealer, it jerks only when the car starts to run normal temperature whether it being AC on or OFF. It once again has a minimal jerk but still does it when I slow down and MPH hits 5mph. After I picked it up from the dealer it most of the time jerks but minimally and sometimes it doesn't jerk at all.
I am a bit confused on what really is the issue and hoping someone in these forums has come up with a solution or if someone is having the same issue. I have gone through so many articles and they are all dated around 2005 - 2013 the latest. I am just wondering if anyone has a solution now that it is 2016
Only thing I have not tried is changing the transmission oil.
Looking for some assistance.
Car: 06 525i
Transmission: Automatic
Miles: 143,xxx
Trans fluid has not been changed.
Spark plugs has been changed
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Any thoughts in this case?
I have an 04 525i and I had the same problem. My Indy checked the tranny fluid and it was low. He added what was necessary and the problem went away
If the transmission fluid wasn't changed, why not start with that? The fluid should be changed every 60K.
I'm definitely gonna try a fluid change i'm just scared by doing so will again make the jerkiness worst since It did get a bit better after getting it back from the dealer but I definitely still notice it's there. Do you know if I will have to reprogram after changing transmission fluid?
Thanks!
Thanks!
You need to post which transmission you have so the appropriate Symptoms & Corrections can be researched. Sonnax has a ton of information - here is one link (see page 66);
http://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/pdf/pdf/159/ZF6_Webinar-FINAL.pdf?v=1459186576
I'm in the process of rebuilding my valve body for the same issue (start at post 33);
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=930091&page=2
There is an interesting Technical Tip in the Zip Kit instructions. I know it states 6R60 & 6R80 only, but these ZF's are very similar. They also don't address BMW issues whatsoever, so you need to paint with a wide brush (for lack of a better analogy pre coffee).
2-1 Clunk (6R60 & 6R80 Only)
Ford 6R60 & 6R80 units commonly display a 2-1 down shift clunk. ******yada - yada - yada****** However, in mid-2010 and earlier models, there is NO known OE or aftermarket remedy.
I find this interesting that the transmission experts/engineers would print such a statement. I wonder what the Ford dealerships are telling their customers?
http://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/pdf/pdf/159/ZF6_Webinar-FINAL.pdf?v=1459186576
I'm in the process of rebuilding my valve body for the same issue (start at post 33);
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=930091&page=2
There is an interesting Technical Tip in the Zip Kit instructions. I know it states 6R60 & 6R80 only, but these ZF's are very similar. They also don't address BMW issues whatsoever, so you need to paint with a wide brush (for lack of a better analogy pre coffee).
2-1 Clunk (6R60 & 6R80 Only)
Ford 6R60 & 6R80 units commonly display a 2-1 down shift clunk. ******yada - yada - yada****** However, in mid-2010 and earlier models, there is NO known OE or aftermarket remedy.
I find this interesting that the transmission experts/engineers would print such a statement. I wonder what the Ford dealerships are telling their customers?
I thought this was about Trump at first......
You will not need to program the transmission. Changing the fluid should restore the functionality of the transmission since old t-fluid causes hard shifting and a low fluid level causes slow shifting. You might also have the u-joint and flexible coupler checked for wear.
You will not need to program the transmission. Changing the fluid should restore the functionality of the transmission since old t-fluid causes hard shifting and a low fluid level causes slow shifting. You might also have the u-joint and flexible coupler checked for wear.
Hi Elvee,
i think we have a similar issue..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936479&highlight=
i think we have a similar issue..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936479&highlight=
This is common with the ZF6HP transmissions.
Resetting the tranny adaptations or reprogramming the tranny can reduce the issue TEMPORARILY.
Changing the fluid will not fix the issue. Replacing the transmission is not necessary.
The problem is that the shift solenoids on the mechatronic (valvebody) inside the tranny get lazy as they age.
This leads to the jolt you get when the vehicle slows to a stop and the tranny shifts to 1st.
You can replicate this jolt by entering manual mode and shifting from 1st to 2nd and back while at a stop.
You'll feel the same jolt then too.
Replace the solenoids and this will be fixed. If you don't, the tranny will eventually begin to slip out of gear in between shifts and throw a gear ratio error.
The solenoids can be bought from thectsc.com for $400
You will also need some ZF Auto tranny fluid.
Might as well replace the integrated pan/filter too.
If you are handy, replacing the solenoids is an easy DIY. The hardest part is raising the car and making sure it is level, so you can properly pump the new fluid back in when you are done. Still very easy.
Whatever you do, DO NOT let a shop install a new transmission. That is overkill. Don't get raped on solenoid prices either. Buy them online and send them to your shop or have your shop price match if they are doing the repair.
Your transmission will be better than new when you get done. If you have questions, let me know.
Resetting the tranny adaptations or reprogramming the tranny can reduce the issue TEMPORARILY.
Changing the fluid will not fix the issue. Replacing the transmission is not necessary.
The problem is that the shift solenoids on the mechatronic (valvebody) inside the tranny get lazy as they age.
This leads to the jolt you get when the vehicle slows to a stop and the tranny shifts to 1st.
You can replicate this jolt by entering manual mode and shifting from 1st to 2nd and back while at a stop.
You'll feel the same jolt then too.
Replace the solenoids and this will be fixed. If you don't, the tranny will eventually begin to slip out of gear in between shifts and throw a gear ratio error.
The solenoids can be bought from thectsc.com for $400
You will also need some ZF Auto tranny fluid.
Might as well replace the integrated pan/filter too.
If you are handy, replacing the solenoids is an easy DIY. The hardest part is raising the car and making sure it is level, so you can properly pump the new fluid back in when you are done. Still very easy.
Whatever you do, DO NOT let a shop install a new transmission. That is overkill. Don't get raped on solenoid prices either. Buy them online and send them to your shop or have your shop price match if they are doing the repair.
Your transmission will be better than new when you get done. If you have questions, let me know.
What you're experiencing is the second to first gear slam .. First Change the fluid and pan ,see if it helps . But with that mileage most shops wont touch it . Because it may do more harm than good by the new fluid breaking up the sludge and clogging passage ways .. Second, a transmission update can fix that problem , and it solved that issue on my car permenantly , it has not done it again, and it's been around eight years ago . If an update doesn't fix the issue , then either do the solinoids or change out the valve body , which might be the better option based on the lack of service .
change your flex disk
Thanks for the information I will definitely take a look in to having that replaced. Thanks!
My car has the same exact problem and changing the fluid or pan didn't help. The other day I had a problem were my car got stuck in 3rd gear from doing a 2 hour drive. Do you think the 2-1 slam and the car getting stuck in a gear is caused from the same problem? And I've heard about the getting my solenoids changed too from asking around. Will look into that
What he said! My car is doing the same thing & when the time comes, im changing all the solenoids, you probably have 6-8 of them for like 100$ a piece. You might get transmission failsafe errors. If your trans goes into reverse, it's mostly a bad solenoid
Hi Did you ever figure this issue ou? I know a very old post however, I have the same issue. After spending thousands on replacement of brake sensors and trans filter, I am still having same issue.please help
If you have the ZF transmission in your E60 then you also have internal seals that include the bridge seal. These need replacing every 60,000 miles or so along with the fluid and pan. When the seals harden, shrink, or break, they mess with the shifting pressures and can cause your jerking. As for the “reprogramming” you mention in your other post, I bet they just reset the adaptations. If that’s all they did then they are only supposed to do that after a full transmission service.
If you haven’t changed the seals, fluid, and filter, you need to.
Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app
If you haven’t changed the seals, fluid, and filter, you need to.
Sent from my iPhone using Bimmerfest mobile app
I did all these and it went away. I initially just figured new fluid and the filter would fix it but no, the seals needed doing too. I took the opportunity to have the fluid refreshed again since reusing what came out of the second opening seemed pointless. Since then, it's felt very silky smooth.
People aren't kidding when they talk about the bucking either, when it first happened I actually pulled over to check if the car behind me had hit me.
People aren't kidding when they talk about the bucking either, when it first happened I actually pulled over to check if the car behind me had hit me.
I had the same issue, 2007 530 i with Zf 6hp19 trans. MY indy replaced the fluid and seals, or so he told me and charge me anyway, but that didn't fix the issue. So I just lived with it as it wasn't really that bad. But I finally decided to address the issue. Purchase all new bridge and tube seals, fluid, pan, new pan bolts (probably didn't need them), and solenoid kit. Replacement of all took approx. 5-6 hrs maybe and can be quite a pain at times but WOW. What a difference it has made in shifting. No more 1st gear bump, and delays going into reverse. Shifts like new and so so much better. Can't believe I waiting that long. Purchased all from FCPeuro.
HI Thank you so much for your response. I have a E70 . The last invoice says Brake sensors front and rear replaced ATF green, Trans Fillter Kit E70 so I am not too sure. I dont know a lot about cars but this invoice alone was shy of $2000 and the problem still exists . THe mechanic said the brushes may need replacing but could it still be bridge seal in E70?
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
