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Discussion Starter #1
E53 2001

The buttons on the key will not work but key still starts Bimmer???

We replaced alternator and are now experiencing all kinds of new problems and a few good things lol
Ohhh what is a girl to do lol

At wits end but hubby won't let me give up on my baby

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The FZV/DWA (central locking/anti-theft alarm siren system) buttons on the remote key has NOTHING to do with the EWS features of the key. EWS, FZV, and DWA are completely independent systems that work in tandem or conjunction with each other but aren't dependent on the other to work/perform.

Especially the EWS feature of the remote key. EWS is self powered (through induction) and operates over a 125 KHz radio frequency between the key, ring antenna (around the ignition), EWS control module, and DME/ECU. It doesn't even use the battery inside of the key due to its use of induction to power itself.

The FZV/DWA features of the key transmit a 315 MHz radio frequency to an aerial in the left rear cargo area window...which then sends data to amps in the D pillar...then onto the GM where commands are sent to FZV to lock/unlock the car...and to DWA to arm/disarm the alarm siren system.

The remote is NOT a one-trick-pony...it is operating multiple features:




{the BMW Tourings (wagons) and SAVs/SUVs FZV antenna is in the left rear cargo area window}



{see workshop hint on the bottom right about dead key battery not affecting vehicle starting}

 

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Discussion Starter #3
The FZV/DWA (central locking/anti-theft alarm siren system) buttons on the remote key has NOTHING to do with the EWS features of the key. EWS, FZV, and DWA are completely independent systems that work in tandem or conjunction with each other but aren't dependent on the other to work/perform.

Especially the EWS feature of the remote key. EWS is self powered (through induction) and operates over a 125 KHz radio frequency between the key, ring antenna (around the ignition), EWS control module, and DME/ECU. It doesn't even use the battery inside of the key due to its use of induction to power itself.

The FZV/DWA features of the key transmit a 315 MHz radio frequency to an aerial in the left rear cargo area window...which then sends data to amps in the D pillar...then onto the GM where commands are sent to FZV to lock/unlock the car...and to DWA to arm/disarm the alarm siren system.

The remote is NOT a one-trick-pony...it is operating multiple features:




{the BMW Tourings (wagons) and SAVs/SUVs FZV antenna is in the left rear cargo area window}



{see workshop hint on the bottom right about dead key battery not affecting vehicle starting}

Thank you finally someone who knows thief ****

The key is original and still starts my baby but just the buttons just won't work

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Knows their **** not thief it a huge typo lol

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:):D:)

Have you tried reinitializing the remote key? See the instructions below if you need them. These instructions are for programming the remote keys to the GM for operating FBZV/DWA (remote central locking/anti-theft alarm siren system)...again, this doesn't affect EWS and the ability of the key to start the vehicle.

This initiates a new rolling code table and key assignment between the GM and remote key(s). If you have more than one remote...then it needs to be programmed during the same session...any remote not present will no longer "remotely" lock/unlock & arm/disarm the vehicle because it won't have the new code table so the GM will not recognize the 315 MHz signal that is being sent from the key to the car. :)

TIPS:
  • KL R = ignition position 1
  • make sure ALL doors are CLOSED
  • make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED
  • you can remove the key in STEP 3 after turning the ignition off & before pressing the buttons :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:):D:)

Have you tried reinitializing the remote key? See the instructions below if you need them. These instructions are for programming the remote keys to the GM for operating FBZV/DWA (remote central locking/anti-theft alarm siren system)...again, this doesn't affect EWS and the ability of the key to start the vehicle.

This initiates a new rolling code table and key assignment between the GM and remote key(s). If you have more than one remote...then it needs to be programmed during the same session...any remote not present will no longer "remotely" lock/unlock & arm/disarm the vehicle because it won't have the new code table so the GM will not recognize the 315 MHz signal that is being sent from the key to the car. :)

TIPS:
  • KL R = ignition position 1
  • make sure ALL doors are CLOSED
  • make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED
  • you can remove the key in STEP 3 after turning the ignition off & before pressing the buttons :)
You said step 3 I can remove key but instructions shows key removal in step 2 lol

Jk ;)

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Oops...you're right. :D
 

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Okay...I only got about 1 minute into the video just to get the gist of where they were going. They PURCHASED a electric toothbrush just to get an inductive charger? :dunno:

If you have a battery charger, float charger, or trickle charger...you can use that instead of buying a toothbrush. The remote is charged anytime it is in the ignition and it is turned on. It takes approximately 30 hours to recharge a completely discharged remote.

So, you can hook up your battery charger to the jump start terminals in the engine bay...then insert the key in the ignition and turn it to KL R (ignition position 1) & leave it to charge overnight.

BTW...if the key has been in constant use...a dead battery is probably not the issue. This topic has been discussed hundreds of times. And 99% of the time the battery is fine and the issue is more about the condition of the remote's internals...like a broken solder joint, or a damaged resistor/capacitor from the key being dropped or thrown/tossed.

There's a forum member that has repaired 100s of BMW remote keys...he writes all the time that they send them in thinking they need new batteries and they don't. Here's a link to his site...click his link to the "wall of shame" to see how owners have destroyed theIR remotes attempting to open key, resold er new battery, etc: https://www.bmwgm5.com/Key_Repair.htm
 

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