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Key Remote quit working not battery/not fuses

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I have googled til I'm silly. My original remote worked perfectly..up til a couple of weeks ago. So I replaced battery in remote...to no avail....bought new key from bmw dealer. it manually opens doors and starts car. But the remote functions do not work at all. I have checked the #6,#27,#29 fuses all are good, have checked the fuse in trunk....all good.... I'm bafffled....any help would be dearly appreciated

On a second note..my dash shows a bad bulb on right rear.....all bulbs are good....still shows car on dash with bad right rear bulb though
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I had a similar issue....no response from remote at all! I ended up having to re-link the remote and the car. This procedure can be found online (that's what I did) and that solved my issue. Key remote works perfectly now!
Kojak,

Did you allow the new key to charge for a few days before initializing it? How about the old key, with a new battery? Did you let it charge up?

The light control module is sensitive to the bulb end-of-life. You have a bulb that will soon fail.
I had same problem before and was able to fix it. First you need to do a quick troubleshooting. Lock all doors with your key. Then check if your gas door is still open. If so, that means the fuse in the trunk has blown.
The fuel door actuator shares the same electrical circuit as the key remote functions module (FZV, right c-pillar). If the fuel door is not functioning properly, then the circuit fuse is most probably blown.
The fuse is #53, 7.5 mA, and is located on the fuse bank in the trunk passenger side compartment; above battery. A fuse list is on the inside of the compartment door. It lists the fuses in physical order. #53 is the 8th fuse from the front and is designated ***8220;Central Locking System***8221;. Pull out the fuse and look closely at it. You***8217;ll find the center of the wire to be missing (burned). Good luck.
After all this hubbub.... the 7.5 amp fuse in trunk was, indeed, bad. I was told it was good. Should have just changed it and all would be good. Anywhoozle....for me..it was the #53 fuze... fyi, I have no fuel filler door actuator...doesn't seem like this 540I had one installed on it...
fyi, I have no fuel filler door actuator The po may have removed it, since it was bad. They all have one.
If you didn't have an actuator it wouldn't have blown the fuse. It's there, it's just not working, and it will blow the fuse again if you don't fix it or disconnect the wire to it.
After all this hubbub.... the 7.5 amp fuse in trunk was, indeed, bad. I was told it was good. Should have just changed it and all would be good. Anywhoozle....for me..it was the #53 fuze... fyi, I have no fuel filler door actuator...doesn't seem like this 540I had one installed on it...
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