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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I have never actually taken photos while working on projects, most likely because I was so pissed at the project and how much harder it was than it was supposed to be...

Anyways, here goes my first attempt to actually follow through online like Ron...

Starting off we have a few components:

One $40 JL Audio Nickel Plated 4 ga splitter
One Alpine CDA-9883 Head Unit with integrated Ipod controls and 3 sets pre-amps
One Alpine PDX 1.600 Amplifier
One Alpine PDX 4.100 Amplifier
One set MB Quart QSD 213 Components for front kicks and doors
One set MB Quart PCE 213 Components for rear fill
One Sound Stream 2.0 Farad Capacitor
Three sets Monster Interlink 101XLN Interconnects
Handful of gold plated connectors, spade terminals, molex connectors, etc.
Monstor 4 ga power and ground wire, Street wires 14 ga speaker wire
BMW harness for radio
Color matched carpet on the way, 4 yards.

This is the component list anyways, I may be leaving out little stuff, but not too much I don't think.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok, step one is to remove the old stereo. Take out the entire rear of the coupe. Its a jigsaw puzzle. If you can't handle this part, then just stop now and give up. Otherwise, do a search and figure it out. Move all interior parts into spare room, they will be visiting for a while.

The goal of this project is to install all the crap pictured below...
 

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The Anti-Rice
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5,394 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After clearing out the space, I went ahead and traced out the sub box onto a piece of MDF and then cut it out. I drilled out the holes and then I used a 1 inch paddle bit to drill down each hole so that the thickness was only approximately 1/4 inch deep. This way it is the same thickness as the factory sub enclosure. Once this was completed, I did a test fitting.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So now that it fits, I fitted it with some 7/8 ths inch washers and then tested them out with the factory nuts.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So as you can see, I worked the panel with the hand rasp and a file and got it down to the perfect shape. In addition to the size of the sub box, I also extended it towards the passenger side to give me more room to install things like the amps. Having 5 bolts holding this to the chassis, and keeping it towards the middle of the car, it shouldn't be too negetive of an install on handling. Well, compared to some of the monster systems.

Also, the idea is that if you disconnect the power and ground wires then you shoudl be able to unbolt this panel and the entire stereo will remove without too much of an ordeal.

So past experience tells me that I really don't want o get a glimpse of the wood panel when I take off one of the access panels, so the thing to do I think would be to wrap the panel in something a little more attractive. So I picked up some nice charcoal suit wool at the local fabric store. I sprayed the panel in super 77 and then wrapped it up and stapled it down.

I put the washers back and then bolted it down for the night to let it set....
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tomorrow we will lay out the components and run some wires...
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)

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Ad Grunt
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I'd like to know how hot those amps get. One of them anyway. I've been thinking about getting one to replace my twin fan Kenwood Excelon 4 ch. to gain back some trunk space.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, after sitting overnight I the washers are set nicely, and the fabric is glued well to the panel. So next step is to hit it with a lint roller. Wow, lots of lint on this wool. After the lint roller and a quick ironing job there are no wrinkles left in the panel and its looking good.

Flipped it over and put some staples on it just in case the glue wears out in a couple years.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Time to whip up a wiring harness...

I won't be using the speaker outputs at all as I am utilizing the pre-amp outputs on the new head unit, I will only be using the following:

Yellow: 12 Volt Constant Battery
Red: 12 Volt Switched Battery
Black: Chassis Ground
Orange: Illumination
Blue: Remote Turn On

Also, while your at it, its a good idea to connect an additional ground wire and ground it to the body somewhere. Some say you don't need it, some say you do. I say it can't hurt.

Also, while your at it, I had to cut down a small bolt to install the nub on the back of the head unit so that it will contact the alarm switch for the radio.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now its time to run the RCAs from the front of the car to the rear. While at this, I went ahead and installed the IPOD cable and the wiring harness with the ground wire run to a screw under the center console for an extra ground.

Make sure you label the RCAs if they all look the same!

Blue tape is your friend, use alot of it or you will scratch up your $3000 center console... :)

Finally I hooked up the head unit and then I used electical tape to make sure all the connections stay connected even when everything is rattling around...
 

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19,585 Miles
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Now its time to run the RCAs from the front of the car to the rear. While at this, I went ahead and installed the IPOD cable and the wiring harness with the ground wire run to a screw under the center console for an extra ground.

Make sure you label the RCAs if they all look the same!

Blue tape is your friend, use alot of it or you will scratch up your $3000 center console... :)

Finally I hooked up the head unit and then I used electical tape to make sure all the connections stay connected even when everything is rattling around...
When are you showing up at HC?
 

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Time to whip up a wiring harness...

I won't be using the speaker outputs at all as I am utilizing the pre-amp outputs on the new head unit, I will only be using the following:

Yellow: 12 Volt Constant Battery
Red: 12 Volt Switched Battery
Black: Chassis Ground
Orange: Illumination
Blue: Remote Turn On

Also, while your at it, its a good idea to connect an additional ground wire and ground it to the body somewhere. Some say you don't need it, some say you do. I say it can't hurt.
You'd be wrong on "it can't hurt". It can cause ground loops. Test before buttoning up.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Its grounded right under the cup holder, so it will be very easy to reverse.

So while I was at it, I figured it was as good as any time to put in the ASC button with sport mode. No controller, so its just the button. Have to pick up a couple extra pins to hook up the illumination.

Tested sport mode, and its working properly. I forgot how much a difference it makes.

Shark kills sport mode :(.
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
So, back to the project. Its been a long day. So I found out that I have alot less real estate than I thought I did. So now I have to get creative. Created a riser for the rear crossovers to sit on, then sandwiched them on the riser. Ran power and ground wires to the cap and ran out of grounding wire. So back to the store tomorrow, I also have to pick up a couple more pins to illuminate the ASC button.

Tomorrow I will have to install the panel in the car and run the wires to the speaker locations. Soldering up tabs on the speaker wires makes hooking them up much easier if you have to move them around more than once.

Should be pretty simple, all downhill from here!
 

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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The Anti-Rice
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Shift knob keeps coming off on me... I guess this is a common ailment. I have plenty of teflon tape laying around, so I just wrapped the handle a few times like when I am working on plumbing... The knob is snug! Amazing that worked, so I am happy.
 
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