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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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The key data is in the spec sheets. The 0W40 has a lower temperature pour point than the 5W40 so it will give you better cold start up characteristics. Not sure if you get down to -40 degrees in W.DC but what ever.

The 5W40 has a slightly higher viscosity at 100C. It's actually 14 mm²/s versus 13,4 mm²/s for the 0W40, so you might see a slight improvement in fuel economy if you use the 0W40.
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter #3
The key data is in the spec sheets. The 0W40 has a lower temperature pour point than the 5W40 so it will give you better cold start up characteristics. Not sure if you get down to -40 degrees in W.DC but what ever.

The 5W40 has a slightly higher viscosity at 100C. It's actually 14 mm²/s versus 13,4 mm²/s for the 0W40, so you might see a slight improvement in fuel economy if you use the 0W40.
:thumbup:

thanks, going to switch to 0w-40
 

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:thumbup:

thanks, going to switch to 0w-40
Why not try the Ceratec modifier instead... I don't see the benefit of using 0W in the summer... In fact, it may be too thin at start-up in hot weather and create momentary friction metal on metal...
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter #5
Why not try the Ceratec modifier instead... I don't see the benefit of using 0W in the summer... In fact, it may be too thin at start-up in hot weather and create momentary friction metal on metal...
this summer in my area temps hasn't reached above ~88.F I dont think its going to get any hotter than that, maybe in july.

Plus i've always used 0w in my cars, this is the first of me using 5w.
 

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Why not try the Ceratec modifier instead... I don't see the benefit of using 0W in the summer... In fact, it may be too thin at start-up in hot weather and create momentary friction metal on metal...
this summer in my area temps hasn't reached above ~88.F I dont think its going to get any hotter than that, maybe in july.

Plus i've always used 0w in my cars, this is the first of me using 5w.
Why are you changing to 0w though? What prompted your decision?
 

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Why not try the Ceratec modifier instead... I don't see the benefit of using 0W in the summer... In fact, it may be too thin at start-up in hot weather and create momentary friction metal on metal...
In an effort to promote better fuel economy, car manufacturers are now specifying 0W20 as the oil to use year round but in our cars that is too light weight. That light an oil will just end up getting sucked into the combustion chamber through the CCV system with other consequences to the catalytic converters, etc.

OW40 will present the best option and will not be too thin. If you examine the specs, there is virtually no difference in viscosity at 25 degrees C compared to 5W40.

Adding Ceratec may make sense on a younger engine but probably makes no difference after a certain point other than how light your wallet is after the visit to the parts supplier.
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter #11
Green oil! Have you lost your mind?
its fluorescent dye in the oil...

and this was my original post question... i never knew molygen had both of the additives in it.... too late though already ordered 0w40
 

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its fluorescent dye in the oil...

and this was my original post question... i never knew molygen had both of the additives in it.... too late though already ordered 0w40
I'm in the same boat... I wasn't aware of the molygen product right after I bought some LM2332... Next oil change for me too...
 

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I've been using LM 2332/2331 (High Tech) 5w-40 for a while now and love it...

---DELETED---

EDIT:
im more thinking about switching to 0w-40 though (2050/2049) and go thicker
https://products.liqui-moly.us/synthoil-energy-a40-sae-0w-40-3.html

0w-40 SPECS


5w-40 SPECS


BMW LL01 SPEC MOLY'S
https://products.liqui-moly.us/oils.html?___from_store=limo_b2b_us_us&___store=limo_b2b_us_us&all_approvals_recoms=1524&cat=597&content=10
Just noticed that neither of Synth Energy or MolyGen meet LL01. Liqui Moly just "recommends" it.
 

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30FF <3
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Discussion Starter #16

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Just noticed that neither of Synth Energy or MolyGen meet LL01. Liqui Moly just "recommends" it.
This seems to be the standard practice for most oil companies.....they will select one or two oil variants in their range to certify, anticipating that they will be the volume sellers; the other variants will actually meet the specs, but don't get certified. I don't know the numbers, but apparently the certification process is fairly costly.
 

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If the additive packs are the same it doesn't matter. A little heavier oil for high mileage is fine. Hell, i am running European blend M1 0-40 from Wal-Mart. I wouldn't hesitate to run 10-40 high mileage if you're pushing 120,000 +

Sent from my LGLS755 using Tapatalk
 
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