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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, working on replacing the oil pan gasket and I've got everything pulled off that I can without hooking up the engine support brace (waiting on UPS) and want to make sure I know where to attach it. There don't seem to be many options without pulling more stuff off the front of the engine. I did find a threaded hole which looks like it might be made for this. Anyone know if that's what this is for and, if so, what size bold fits in there? Picture has the hole in the center. Just over 14mm is my guess.

Thanks
James
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Then you didn***8217;t ask the right question. Find the procedure to do what it is that YOU are trying to do that requires lifting / supporting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You're right. I was looking for oil pan but found exactly what I needed under oil sump. Have to get used to the terminology. Looks like that hole is used and that I need to use the tow hook in it. Now I need to figure out what size the tow hook is because it appears that it isn't in the tool hit or anywhere else in the vehicle...
 

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As I recall when I did this job, you can attach the chain with a long bolt, nut & some washers to the lifting lug. There is no need for a hook.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would have tried that but couldn't figure out what size bolt. Ended up ordering a replacement tow hook from FCP and have to wait a few days. Killing my OCD to have a car up on ramps and stands and do nothing for days...
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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A look at RealOEM***8217;s illustration of 72157070643 Towing Hinge suggests that the threads are nonstandard - not ISO.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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Tow eye thread, WOW, a fun search DIN Knuckle Thread for dirt clearance.

DIN 405 Rd 16 x 1/8” (inch!) maybe!
 

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No hooks on heavy lifting loads please.

Shackles with working loads of 1/10 of breaking load. You can get cheap ones from a Lowe***8217;s if you overrate a bit.

I've dropped one engine using hooks, never again
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 99K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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No hooks on heavy lifting loads please. Shackles with working loads of 1/10 of breaking load. You can get cheap ones from a Lowe's if you overrate a bit. I've dropped one engine using hooks, never again
A broken hook or failure to mouse the hook operator error?

The advantage of a hook is that it first straightens, the radius increases visibly. When the hook is properly selected to be weaker than the chain then the hook beginning to fail is warning to too great of a load.

Hooks should not be used on critical loads, which an engine lift is not, unless one is stupid enough to be under the load.

The conspiracy of ignorance masquerades as common sense.
 

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Here you go:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e83-x3-3.0si-sav/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-13-oil-sump/Fwjh2U6

For the oil-pan....if it's a small leak in the passenger corner, first try honda-bond....if that doesn't work, then get a syringe+suitable tip (like ones from amazon), get some Toyota oil pan gasket RTV, idea is to get it closest to the gasket as possible. Drain all oil first, clean surface with brake cleaner and let sit overnight to remove any remaining oil....once area is dry enough, apply the rtv in a consistent manner, let it dry, add engine oil and check for leaks....fill any voids (hopefully none) with rtv. If this doesn't work for you....then GL...oil pan gasket time :bawling:

Use the tow hook 72 15 8 108 670....pretty sure it comes with all X3's since i've seen it in mine....it's in the trunk under that carpet board to the driver's side.... and attach it exactly like how 50skid did in his video....if you want you can use chains as long as you don't wrap up any plastic stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here you go:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e83-x3-3.0si-sav/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-13-oil-sump/Fwjh2U6

For the oil-pan....if it's a small leak in the passenger corner, first try honda-bond....if that doesn't work, then get a syringe+suitable tip (like ones from amazon), get some Toyota oil pan gasket RTV, idea is to get it closest to the gasket as possible. Drain all oil first, clean surface with brake cleaner and let sit overnight to remove any remaining oil....once area is dry enough, apply the rtv in a consistent manner, let it dry, add engine oil and check for leaks....fill any voids (hopefully none) with rtv. If this doesn't work for you....then GL...oil pan gasket time :bawling:

Use the tow hook 72 15 8 108 670....pretty sure it comes with all X3's since i've seen it in mine....it's in the trunk under that carpet board to the driver's side.... and attach it exactly like how 50skid did in his video....if you want you can use chains as long as you don't wrap up any plastic stuff.
Thanks. The leak appears to be around the rear passenger side but upon closer inspection, it was several places. I tried torquing the bolts down a little more but it didn't help. I just removed a few of the oil pan bolts while waiting on my replacement tow hook and they were coated with oil when they came out (yes, I drained the oil first for the smartasses in the group :) ). Pretty sure the gasket was toast. Just hoping it isn't the rear main. Not sure I want to both with that myself. Can't justify buying a transmission jack just for that...
 

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Thanks. The leak appears to be around the rear passenger side but upon closer inspection, it was several places. I tried torquing the bolts down a little more but it didn't help. I just removed a few of the oil pan bolts while waiting on my replacement tow hook and they were coated with oil when they came out (yes, I drained the oil first for the smartasses in the group :) ). Pretty sure the gasket was toast. Just hoping it isn't the rear main. Not sure I want to both with that myself. Can't justify buying a transmission jack just for that...
Aluminum bolts are stretch bolts, so pro tip, don't torque them down. Just don't :)

Oil pan gasket time...GL...:bawling: :cry:

It's the one of the jobs I dread. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Aluminum bolts are stretch bolts, so pro tip, don't torque them down. Just don't :)

Oil pan gasket time...GL...:bawling: :cry:

It's the one of the jobs I dread. ;)
No kidding. They didn't make this the easiest of jobs. I am appreciating the engineering though.
 

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I installed new oil pan bolts coated in thread sealant. Problem solved. They're stretch bolts, so you need all new bolts.

You can't drain the oil out the pan bolts; I did mine with a pan full of oil the night before a 3200 mile trip. They're fine.
 

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No kidding. They didn't make this the easiest of jobs. I am appreciating the engineering though.
If that is a cinder block (as opposed to a concrete block) I hope it's just there for backup... vehicle weight can turn a cinder block to dust, especially how you have it positioned....
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If that is a cinder block (as opposed to a concrete block) I hope it's just there for backup... vehicle weight can turn a cinder block to dust, especially how you have it positioned....
Absolutely! I have 3 kids and have to head out of town for a night. Put the blocks there as one additional level of backup in case something happens with the jack stands. They aren't even touching at this point. Also going to have my motorcycle stand under the front of the frame with the locks in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I installed new oil pan bolts coated in thread sealant. Problem solved. They're stretch bolts, so you need all new bolts.

You can't drain the oil out the pan bolts; I did mine with a pan full of oil the night before a 3200 mile trip. They're fine.
I ordered new bolts with the gasket. Only tried torquing the old ones down to see if it might help slow the drip.

Funny you mention not being able to drain the oil from the pan bolts. Even after I drained the oil, there was oil coming out of the holes where I removed bolts around the back 1/2 of the pan (not corners yet). Thinking the gasket was completely shot anyway.
 
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