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Discussion Starter #1
2000 528i 5-speed 120k miles.

Issue: No start, cranks fine. 10PSI or less at fuel rail.

Actions Taken: Replaced Fuel Pump and filter with BOSCH, New Fuel Pump Relay, New Fuel Pressure Regulator, Rebuilt Vanos, Replaced Cracked Valve Cover and gaskets, New Spark Plugs (NGK), Verified all coils are functioning properly (getting spark)

This problem started with me having to crank the engine multiple times to get it to start but once started for the first time for the day would run perfectly and start up again with no issues. If left overnight it would become hard to start again.

I checked the fuel pressure at the rail and was getting roughly 10-15PSI after trying to "prime" the fuel lines by turning the key to accessory position and waiting for ~10-20 seconds multiple times.

I already changed the fuel pump and filter with new BOSCH so to see if I had a faulty new pump I removed the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

With the Fuel Pressure Regulator removed it dumped fuel quickly. Thinking it might be a faulty fuel pressure regulator I purchased and installed a new one. With a new Fuel Pressure Regulator installed I get no fuel coming out of the unplugged stem (highlighted in green and shown with hose attached). I am not sure if there should be fuel coming out of that so I reattached the hose. After that hose was reattached I tested the fuel pressure at the rail and had ~10 PSI after "priming" the system multiple times.


So...My questions are:

Would a defective Running Losses (3/2-way) valve or Fuel Control Valve (Part# 13311740281) cause this? (no start issue)

Does anyone know the proper voltage to test the Fuel Control Valve solenoid at? or if there is a relay that I am missing that would cause it not to work?
 

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Under the lift arms
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12,939 Posts
m52tu 2.8 siemens MS 42.0

bentley page 130-2

-fuel
fuel supply (pump)
running loose/ non return
fuel injection
(page 130-23)

evaporation emissions control (ms 42.0 Ms 43.0)
e39 models with ms 42 or ms43 engine are equipped with a fuel system evaporative pressure leak diagnosis system, the main component of this system is the leak diagnosis pump (LDPor DM-TL) the function of either system is to pressurize the fuel tank and the evaporative emission system for the purpose of detecting leaks (page 130-39)

(page 160-12)
system pressure testing

m52tu In 3/2 way valve, below vehicle under drivers seat



so according to this..
yes ( i had thought you where looking at the purge behind the passengers side wheel) but i see your looking at the correct part,

its going to be a 12volt system.. so your brown is ground and what ever the other color is will be DC positive (if you need me to break out volume 2 for actual voltage its gonna cost you )

check out page 160-12
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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Under the lift arms
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Remove fuel pump relay and install jumper wire between relay socket pins 30 & 87
]
I dont think that is necessary..
its much faster and must safer to just put a guage on it.. and see that you have pressure.

there are to many other variables that make that relay pull in,

there are also many other variables besides fuel..

jumping the relay would not be something i go to first, it will give false signals
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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No false signals. A continuously running pump simplifies diagnostics. If you have fuel pressure with relay jumped, then relay is not holding in. If you have low pressure w/relay jumped, then there is a press regulator, 3-2 valve, problem or blockage. Jumping the relay is a 30 second task and it eliminates all the other possibilities for pump not running continuously.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So here is an update.

I checked the pressure before and after the fuel pump and got 80+ (if I remember correctly). Then again after the Running Losses (3/2-way) valve or Fuel Control Valve (Part# 13311740281) I asked about originally and had little to no pressure. I replaced that part with a part from a donor car and immediately got 51(?) PSI at the fuel rail. This was done on the 9th of December, and the car started and ran perfectly until this morning.

This morning I had to go back to turning it over multiple times to get it started. Once it started, it ran perfectly on the way to work and fired up immediately after work with no hesitation. I checked the fuel rail pressure once I got home and it showed 10 PSI when I turned the key to the accessory position. If I turned the car off and back to the accessory position, each time it would build up about 10 PSI until I hit the 50 PSI mark and held it until I released the pressure using the gauge.

Am I missing something obvious? I checked for leaks and bad hoses when I replaced everything. I hadn't come across anything about the part I replaced in my research and wouldn't expect that two would go bad in such a short period of time.

PSHOVEST: pardon the ignorance, I never know which one people are referring to when they say CPS. Is it Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensor?
 

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BMW CCA 69606
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It's crank in the context I used it. The DME will cut power to the fuel pump relay as a safety feature if it doesn't detect engine speed via the crank sensor. This doesn't seem to be your problem though if engine eventually starts.
 
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