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Discussion Starter #1
Its a 2000 E39 M5, all stock except a Turner Motorsport tune.

I'm getting some pretty strange and random clutch feedback on my '00 M5. So on a normal day, the clutch grabs fine cold and hot with maybe some slight drag when shifting fast at WOT. Recently, it's been doing some weird stuff.

One night I was taking off full throttle from a stoplight (Car fully warmed up), and when I shifted into second, I was immediately banging off the rev limiter as the clutch didn't seem to grab, however the pedal didn't seem to return all the way either. Smelled a little bit of clutch too. 15 min later it was grabbing fine again.

However, this issue is becoming much more common. Leaving work the other day (Car is cold), I merged onto the freeway full throttle in 3rd gear when the clutch started to slip pretty bad at around 4K. Of course I let off, and up shifted. After a few miles I tried to repeat the problem to see if the clutch was spanked. pulled into the slow lane, dropped her in 3rd and hit the gas at 4-4.5K. Clutch grabbed fine this time and didn't slip... Wtf?

Tonight I took the car out to get food, and tested the issue. Did a mean pull with some considerable wheel spin shifting to 2nd. I put it in 3rd again and hit the gas, and stood on it. It slipped to 4k, stayed there, grabbed again and the car accelerated. Super weird. It's like taking the clutch out super slow, slips at first, but then starts to grab and you go.

In general, the grab point of the clutch seems to be about 5/8 to release, and has a bit of a gritty feeling when operating. Pedal pressure seems heavy, MUCH more so than the E90 M3 I test drove the other day. I HOPE its not the clutch itself, as with labor and parts can be over $2K, but I don't think we can rule out hydraulics either. The master cylinder doesnt appear to be leaking, but I cant tell if the slave is, as the diaphragm is located inside the trans. perhaps one of the cylinders are damaged not allowing the clutch fork to return all the way?
 

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First, I must congradulate you! I love how you actually drive your m5 the way its meant to be driven. Anyway, I always say start with the basics, and the cheapest. FLUSH the fluid, don't just drain it. Run it through until you see fresh fluid come out. And make sure its the right sh*t! If still not fixed, then try and see if you can crack open the master cylinder and replace the seals. Dont be afraid to take your car apart. I had my Automatic out and spread accross my dads shop (its an HVAC shop, so no lifts or anything. Just a roof above me.) And it was easier to take apart than a Chevy 4 speed auto. Yeah, the things they built and used for 30 years. Up until recently when its cool to have more gears.

Restoring a lightly used 2002 BMW 525iA back to it's stock beauty one part at a time, with a modern touch!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First, I must congradulate you! I love how you actually drive your m5 the way its meant to be driven. Anyway, I always say start with the basics, and the cheapest. FLUSH the fluid, don't just drain it. Run it through until you see fresh fluid come out. And make sure its the right sh*t!
Haha thanks! Yeah I don't get why some people buy M cars just to cruise around and never go over 4K :dunno:

The brake fluid looks like used motor oil, which probably hasn't done much good to the seals. My Datsun truck had a bad slave to the point where it would only let the clutch return enough so the truck would barely move. Could let the clutch out in 1st with the brakes on and it would still run, lol. New slave, and clutch grabbed great. Two totally different vehicles, but thats where I get the idea from.
 

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Yeah, I was going to say check the slave cylinder. Seems like you're already heading that way.
 

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sounds like the clutch it self broke..

the rivits have broken from the clutch packs to the inner part that has the sping on it..

i had a clutch once that did the same thing you described

sometimes it was fine, other times it was hard to shift, didnt engage or disengage

i wish i could find that picture.... but what had happen is a few of the rivits had come apart so the clutch packs them self where loose on the puck but the housing had kept it all from totally grenade'n

when i took it apart it all fell apart... youll find your self doing a clutch very soon

let me know where you get a m5 clutch installed for 2k... Id like to see that place
 

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There is a difference between beating the crap out of an M5 or actually driving it to it's limitations without destroying it, one takes practice to master the right gearing, matching the rev's and lifting a clutch and synchronizing gear selection so that there is no lag and no bunny hopping, cooking a clutch etc etc.

Sheesh, anyone can hit a rev limiter, smack it into gear and drop a clutch, no wonder your clutch is crying out to stop what you're doing, remember it's a stock single plated clutch designed to last at normal road operation (including high speed), it wasn't designed to flog it to death at each set of lights.

If you keep insisting on driving the way you are driving it, invest in $3K plus and get yourself a dual plated kevlar racing clutch and short shifter, then try and master that because that's a different kettle of fish altogether, plenty of stalling and severe bunny hopping even at high speed if you don't get the rev's and gearing right the first time.

While you're at it, get under that car and start checking your Guibo, your differential mount for cracks because these can affect our clutch severely as well.

Good luck!
 

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+1 On Ebonix recommendations. But lets not criticise how he drives. Its his money. Juat start with draining all thw fluids. Brakes, clutch, trans, and diff. Invest in the good stuff too. The best gears in the world will fail if the fluid isnt on par.

Restoring a lightly used 2002 BMW 525iA back to it's stock beauty one part at a time, with a modern touch!
 

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And whether its a datsun pickup or a german super car, clutch works the same. Pedal in, out. Clutch bites, clutch slips. Same thing. Although one can hadle 500hp... The other not so much.

Restoring a lightly used 2002 BMW 525iA back to it's stock beauty one part at a time, with a modern touch!
 

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and once you do the euothan bushings all the way around.. you can throw tires at that car all day
 

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+1 on driving an M5 exactly like it's supposed to be driven.
When im in my F250 I drive slow and casual, im pretty sure it shifts somewhere around 2000-2200 rpms.
But when I'm in my E60 M5 it's a whole different ball game. I rarely hit the rev limiter but I do regularly shift @ about 7500 rpms (sometimes with the exhaust cutouts wide open) .
I bought my car for a reason and when the time comes for a new clutch ill be ok with it because I will have thoroughly enjoyed ever moment of the last one!

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Discussion Starter #11
I bled through the clutch slave today. The fluid was definitely old as it was orange in color. Didn't notice any air coming out during bleeding but was hard to tell as due to the angle of the bleeder, squirts right at you if you're coming from the back of the trans. Clutch pedal felt a bit "smoother" but still seems to act the same. As seen in the picture, I noticed some residue around where the slave attaches to the trans, but wouldn't be able to tell if it's leaking without removing it.
 

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thats going to be the next chassis i master...
The way I describe the E60 m5 is that it's like the car you get at the end of a racing game... All stats maxed. Perfect handling, speed, suspension, brakes, etc...
When dynamic mode is on its like cheating because you can use full power in and out of turns. It won't kick out on you.
The one crappy part about my year model is that I need to get a software update so I can turn Dsc off and they want $400 for it.

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Naw... Im getting a 6 speed 3 pedal
I have an 08' 6spd. I would never buy a sports car without a 3rd pedal. Its one of only 1,364. I flew to Houston from Atlanta to get it and drove it back. They didn't allow the manuals to disable the Dsc until 09 I believe, hence the 400 update mine needs.
Either find one that has had rod bearings done already or plan to do them immediately. They must be done as preventive maintenance.
I'll stop derailing this thread now!


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yeah ive got no problem doing the bottom end.. Cost less then 200 Well.. theres 10... so maybe 350...

but yeah ive done my homework.. Ill be having the same story.. Ill fly to where it is.. or just pay to have it shipped to me

v10 baby.. you da man i saw a few 3 peddles down that way they are all mostly central
 

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yeah ive got no problem doing the bottom end.. Cost less then 200 Well.. theres 10... so maybe 350...

but yeah ive done my homework.. Ill be having the same story.. Ill fly to where it is.. or just pay to have it shipped to me

v10 baby.. you da man i saw a few 3 peddles down that way they are all mostly central
The last set of bearings I did before the m5 was a Ford 5.4L. I think i paid $250 for a complete master rebuild kit ...the bearings for the m5 alone were $960. Add in new rod bolts and internal Vanos Line and a few other odds and ends and i was in almost $1500. Needless to say I was caught off guard and hurtin.
Lucky I do all my own work. otherwise I could never afford a bmw.


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lol when did i become a e60 dude?

Im e30.e36.e39.e83 guy

post 5 sums it up,

let us know how you make out
 
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