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Certifiable BMW Whackjob!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read so much about the timing guides and obviously my car (99 740i Sport; build date 11/17/1998) falls into that category, but I have read differing opinions about the oil pump bolts.

At the moment (I have only driven it ~220 miles since buying it a month ago) the engine revs great on the expressway, but the rest of the car needs a lot of work which I'm hoping to start on before I have to rebuild the engine. It does occasionally give off a very slight smell of burning oil (extremely slow drip in the driveway), and a couple of times I'd swear I could smell a coolant leak but can't actually find any evidence of one.

I am assuming I am the 4th owner (Chicago to Traverse City to Dearborn to me) and have yet to track down any maintenance records. Bought the car cheap and didn't care about condition as long as it was drivable because I plan on replacing every part on it with money I saved on the used car and on insurance. Michigan registration still sucks though because even though I'm the 4th owner of a 15yo rustbucket bought for pennies on the dollar it is still based on the original base price of the vehicle ($62,400 = $218 yearly registration). This is my big motivation to change the garage from the kids toys/garden storage in a real workshop.

So on to the questions:

1) Is the "improperly torqued bolts" issue for the oil pump related to my engine?

2) What symptoms can I expect leading up to either of these problems (guides / oil pump)?

And a non-engine related question since I'm already asking...
3) I bought a new key and can not initialize it because you are supposed to do it from inside the car with all the doors closed...the car always thinks a door is open! Is there an easy way to tell which door it is besides watching the dome light? The dome light goes on and off with 3 of the doors so I would think it isn't any of those but the fourth door doesn't even turn the lights on which makes me think that the car doesn't recognize when that door is opened, or am I wrong about that and the car is smarter than I think and the car is ignoring that door because it thinks is always open and has disabled the light function from that door?
 

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S9XAA
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140 Posts
1) Is the "improperly torqued bolts" issue for the oil pump related to my engine?

2) What symptoms can I expect leading up to either of these problems (guides / oil pump)?
On your next oil change, drop the pan and inspect the oil pump. But as far as I know loose oil pump bolts was only a issue on earlier M62 engines. Also when you drop the pan look for any plastic pieces that may have broke off of the timing chain guilds. You will need a new gasket for the pan.

How many miles are on your car?

Pull the spark plug covers off and look for oil pooling around the plugs. The timing cover gaskets are known to leak with age. How does your power steering hoses look? They are likely the cause of the oil you are seeing dripping from the car.

As for coolant leaks, check the hoses at the rear of the engine for the heater core, these often need to be replaced.
 

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Certifiable BMW Whackjob!
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6,938 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Next oil change is the problem. I bought the car and immediately took it to my mechanic (my garage ain't ready yet) and had the RR bearing replaced and the oil changed. So there is only 200 miles on the oil so far, the next change is pretty far into the future. I was however thinking about dropping the pan as soon as I get the garage ready, but that is slow moving considering my schedule and Christmas is coming (I have 6 kids so it's a pretty big deal). That is why I was asking about possible symptoms I might notice while driving. I really should have come here before buying the car so I would have known to make sure to tell my mechanic certain things to verify, he doesn't do a lot of BMW's but he's been great to my Chevy's for 15(ish) years and a bearing is a bearing and it had to be replaced immediately.

Sorry I forgot to mention (and this is why I'm worried) that it has 110K on it.
 

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S9XAA
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140 Posts
At 110k miles I wouldnt be so worried about the timing chain guides. Replace the tensioner since its probably the original one.
 
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