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Hi all - need some help assessing maintenance costs on my X5 35d. Not sure if I'm getting taken for a ride here or not but some of these prices are shocking. Could use your thoughts/perspectives on this. I took my car into the dealership to get the safety inspection and oil change done. While there they also changed the engine filter and both internal micro filters.

Then they also kindly handed me a list of urgent/recommend items to be done and their costs. The car is a 2015 (late 2014 build) with only 52k miles on it. Here is the list:

1) Change both batteries - $1k (!!!). This one shocked me the most.

2) Rear pads/rotors (worn to 2.5mm) - $1k

3) BG final front drive $210
4) BG rear final drive $175
5) BG transfer case $325
6) BG coolant system $200
7) BG AC deodorizer $105

Also, after they finished the initial work, my check engine light is now on. The computer indicates nothing is wrong but the light is still on in the dash??

So there you have it. How badly am I getting taken for here? I'm going to go see an Indy shop on Monday for an alternative quote. What should all this work really cost? I'm particularly shocked by the batteries!

Thanks in advance for any help here.
 

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Nuclear engineer
02/2012 X5 35d M57Y CPO 98K miles NOKIAN WR G3 12K miles
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I did not know that the F15 had two batteries. The AGM SLI should cost the cost of a 105 AH AGM battery plus two or three hours labor. If your Computer Based Servicing CBS inputs have been properly maintained it will give you note and later an alarm for brake pad changes. The rotors should not even be measured except at pad changes and then you should have notice of entire pad life to required rotor change. When my dealer hands me the free safety inspection up-sell I decline and tell 'em when CBS tells me.

You might need a different more honest shopp if they won't make good on the CEL after their work. Consequent damages are my biggest worry with fixing things that don't need fixing.

Don***8217;t trust an indy too far. My nearest indy wants to be just like the dealership when he grows up - and charges accordingly. I won***8217;t use him. I use an instate dealer and a dealer in Florida.
 
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I did not know that the F15 had two batteries. The AGM SLI should cost the cost of a 105 AH AGM battery plus two or three hours labor. If your Computer Based Servicing CBS inputs have been properly maintained it will give you note and later an alarm for brake pad changes. The rotors should not even be measured except at pad changes and then you should have notice of entire pad life to required rotor change. When my dealer hands me the free safety inspection up-sell I decline and tell 'em when CBS tells me.

You might need a different more honest shopp if they won't make good on the CEL after their work. Consequent damages are my biggest worry with fixing things that don't need fixing.

Don't trust an indy too far. My nearest indy wants to be just like the dealership when he grows up - and charges accordingly. I won't use him. I use an instate dealer and a dealer in Florida.
Thanks Doug - the CBS indicates brakes are good for 12k more miles. I believe the CBS has been properly maintained (I have no reason to think otherwise). Regarding the batteries, what would you estimate the cost to be roughly?

Thank you!
 

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K, you know the dealer's prices are usually much higher! Shop around! There are lots of Indy's where you live, so go get quotes. Doug's advice is sound. Don't fix it if it ain't broken. And, for God's sake have that wonderful dealer fix the CEL that they screwed up! Speak to the service manager, it's a good idea to get to know him anyway. And, if you decide to service some things and you get much lower quotes from some Indy's, go back to that service manager that you now know and I think that he will match those lower prices. You do know that they want your business, right! They sure do in Sarasota!:D
 

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K, you know the dealer's prices are usually much higher! Shop around! There are lots of Indy's where you live, so go get quotes. Doug's advice is sound. Don't fix it if it ain't broken. And, for God's sake have that wonderful dealer fix the CEL that they screwed up! Speak to the service manager, it's a good idea to get to know him anyway. And, if you decide to service some things and you get much lower quotes from some Indy's, go back to that service manager that you now know and I think that he will match those lower prices. You do know that they want your business, right! They sure do in Sarasota!<img src="http://s1.bimmerfest.com/forums/images/smilies/bluebiggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />
Fair points Joe! I***8217;ve got a call in to the service manager, just waiting for a call back now. I***8217;ll bring them the Indy prices and see what they can match. We***8217;ll see how this goes, I***8217;ll post back results!
 

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Ouch. Not sure why you'd go to dealer outside of warranty period. Ownership costs a lot less if you can DIY some things. If not, then establishing a relationship with a good indy is the way to go.

If you become a regular then maybe you can purchase your parts and bring them in. That's what I do when work is above my "watch video and repeat" pay grade. FYI, you can buy rear rotors (OE) and pads for just over $200. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-kit-zimmermann-akebono-34216886479ktr1

Lots of battery threads here. I remember reading that Batteries Plus sells the F15 battery, and can register it for you. Main one, not the mini. GL.
 

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In regards to the battery...as Edgy mentioned above as to lots of threads on this topic across multiple BMW forums & sites...the larger battery is basically a 49/H8 (a 90 AH - 95 AH battery) or 95R/H9 (a 105 AH-110 AH battery)...and can be found at many battery vendors/sellers. The smaller auxiliary battery is the one that's been hard to find and usually has to be purchased from a BMW dealership. IF you can DIY (only takes a few tools and the ability to lift them out of the back section below the cargo floor...you can purchase the aux battery from the dealoerhip's parts department and pickup and install the larger battery at the vendor/seller of your choice and install them yourself. The larger battery WILL NEED to be registered so that it will be charged by the vehicles' charging system correctly. This can be done with software or apps easily and inexpensive (much less than the cost of labor at the dealership).

The illustration below shows the dual battery set-up in the f15 X5...the perspective in the illustration is from looking back out of the tailgate from inside the vehicle. If you open the tailgate from outside looking in...the set-up will be reversed...the main battery will be on your left and the aux battery will be on your right. Again, it is located below the cargo floor (lift it up)...and will be under the black plastic pieces that run across the very rear of the cargo bay (closest to the rear bumpers):

 

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Hi all - need some help assessing maintenance costs on my X5 35d. Not sure if I'm getting taken for a ride here or not but some of these prices are shocking. Could use your thoughts/perspectives on this. I took my car into the dealership to get the safety inspection and oil change done. While there they also changed the engine filter and both internal micro filters.

Then they also kindly handed me a list of urgent/recommend items to be done and their costs. The car is a 2015 (late 2014 build) with only 52k miles on it. Here is the list:

1) Change both batteries - $1k (!!!). This one shocked me the most.

2) Rear pads/rotors (worn to 2.5mm) - $1k

3) BG final front drive $210
4) BG rear final drive $175
5) BG transfer case $325
6) BG coolant system $200
7) BG AC deodorizer $105

Also, after they finished the initial work, my check engine light is now on. The computer indicates nothing is wrong but the light is still on in the dash??

So there you have it. How badly am I getting taken for here? I'm going to go see an Indy shop on Monday for an alternative quote. What should all this work really cost? I'm particularly shocked by the batteries!

Thanks in advance for any help here.
@k997...here's my .02 worth. All above is good info.

1. Yes, as mentioned our '15 F15 X5 has 2 batteries. (let me know if you find a source for the 50ah one.

The one that you should do, IMO, is the transfer case. This is a much over looked unit. I have done this one myself & it's not too bad. You don't need to remove the transmission support as shown in the Newtis,info but you will need a vacuum pump of some type to remove old fluid.

One they didn't list is the transmission fluid. You should look at at least a drain & fill with the proper fluid. FCPeuro has one of the best prices for the fluid & filter kit is you change it.

The rear differential is relatively easy but does require a pump to remove old fluid.

The front differential requires more work to remove several covers to gain access.

A good indy can do all of these for much less than the dealer.
 

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Engine Airfilter is $50, both cabin filters in engine bay are approx, $35, inside cabin filter is $25, fuel filter is $40, AGM 105AH at the dealer is $165-200. Akebono pads are $80 front and $60 rear, rotors resurface + labor will set you $500 + $ 150 for parts, brake fluid flush $100. Transfer case, both differential and transmission fluid $1000-1500 depending on fluids and filter/pan quality (ZF recommended). You are being raped financially by your dealership. Find independent shop, who will do all above. All parts but battery can be purchased at RMEuropean (google it).
 

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Fluids do not need to be changed until 60k mi. There is no reason why do this at 52k mi. Cabin filters replacement is not a critical maintenance item but rather nice to have, once every 3 years.

Diesel fuel filter - not sure about F15 but on E70, is replaced about every 30k mi. Not on the interval book, but thermostats seemed to be crapping out on many E70 diesels around 60k mi, causing regen problems.

I am curious, however, about F15 gassers, their spark plug change intervals, and coolant pump longevity?
 
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