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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i found my little leak...well big leak ...ok so i looked at my bently man...and i found a view of the oil filter housing

My engine doesnt have the connection for that tube coming down on the top middle and thats where my engine is leaking oil, would there be a stock plug??? and can i get to the plug from the inside of the oil filter housing...

MOAR pics

green=oil filter housing
blue=alt
red is where that connection would have been made, but its leaking there


red is where its leaking...i cleaned it up a bit, but it really startes to spit when there is pressure....

i hope the pics are helping
 

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From what i can remember, that port is were an oil cooler line would hook up. On the non-cooler equiped engines theres a plug with an O-ring that can start leaking, as yours is. I'd recomend that you pull the whole filter housing shown in your first picture and replace all of the O-rings because the others are most likely going to start leaking soon.
 

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If it isn't a daily driver tear it apart and see what you find! If it is a daily driver see if the parts store has a diagram that shows any additional parts that the manual may not cover. All manuals are missing some stuff, and the e36 Bently Manual may be missing this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it isn't a daily driver tear it apart and see what you find! If it is a daily driver see if the parts store has a diagram that shows any additional parts that the manual may not cover. All manuals are missing some stuff, and the e36 Bently Manual may be missing this!
its a daily driver, and i DONE tore that SOB up, took the housing off and cleaned it for one...then i took out that plug and the o-ring seemed fine....i put a little bit of gasket sealer on there let it set over night . the next morning i put a little oil in her, started her up, AND STILL IT LEAKED from the same spot.....im pretty sure the housing needs to be replaced, but my question is,can i just plug up the hole from the outside if theres no reason to have it there???? or is there some kind of extra backpressure there thats causing it to leak, cuz i would love to blow my engine :confused::thumbdwn::(
 

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Drill & tap it for a pipe plug (tapered threads). If you don't feel comfortable doing the work, find an automotive machine shop (NAPA dealers usually have access to them). End of problem. Some of the plugs are blanking plugs used to fill holes used during manufacture of the housing.
 

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ummm, so you took it apart and used an rtv sealant (cost:$5.49 @ tube) (he probably used the blue stuff.....) instead of replacing the *worn, brittle, compressed* (all key factors) o-ring that cost *less* than the tube of goo he tried using. now he gets to do it again.

and *WHAT* the heck do you mean drill, machine or tap the oriface???? that alone would cost just as much as the housing would. then you run the risk of overtorquing the plug into the aluminum housing with the brass or steel plug. and he would have to go to a machine shop because this person is the ideal poster child for haven't got a clue. he wouldn't know how to thread a hole anyway, or else he may have tried that already. if he had *ANY* clue, he would've seen the rubber o-ring in the said oriface when it was disassembled and went to get another one instead of trying to cheap out and patch it together with rtv or by threading the oriface. now he has to do it all over again, and this time, go to the dealer and order the parts you need and stop being a cheap punk.

this is the sort of stuff that burns me up, yet these same sort of people are the ones that will moan and whine that garages charge too much.

drivinfaster
 

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Is an oriface anything like an orifice? No orifices in this location, it's blanking plug, a slight upgrade to the welch plugs used on older assemblies. Done the threaded plug upgrade on many different applications where a drive-in plug was used. Aluminum plug in this application works well (several SCCA cars running around with this mod).

Your pontification seems a bit out of place. Unfortunately the E36 cars are devalued to the point where they're now in the hands of youngsters & nitwits who don't know better & can't afford to have things done correctly.
 

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sorry for the spelling error, and i didn't know what the 'correct' term for this hole was. i have never had to do this particular repair, so i am not familiar with this exact set up. i was just going by the statements, which indicated that there was an o-ring present.

however, if this blanking plug is similar in fashion to a freeze plug (which is what it seems to be as per cjh) then there are several ways to perform the repair. probably the easiest would be to find a neoprene (not rubber) compression gasket and install it dry with the area clean from any oily residue. this would be ideal if there was a lip on the inside to help maintain the seal, and also to reduce the likelyhood of the plug wiggling itself out. the next option would be to use a correct size plug and reinstall using either a vise, or large c-clamp to maintain pressure and keep the plug square. i could only imagine some ying yang trying to pound one of these in with a big ol' hammer and wonder why it doesn't either fit right or the housing doesn't bolt right up to the engine assembly.

i would imagine that threading would suffice, since this would be a boss that would be intended to be threaded to accept a hose fitting. however, as cjh also stated, since these vehicles are now more readily accessible to younger less experienced drivers without the funds to maintain them, we are more likely going to see more diy horror stories from owners that are not able to properly diagnose and repair, or pay to repair these machines. (and the worst part about it is for a diy'er with experience, these aren't that much more expensive to maintain than many other vehicles!!!)

but now i wonder, since it was stated as a rubber o-ring, how did that get there in the first place??? unless the blaking plug has an o-ring on it???

oh well, i just don't want to think abot it anymore. going to off topic....


drivinfaster
 
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