BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

My 528 overheated and now it will not crank

3K views 61 replies 13 participants last post by  Burning2nd 
#1 ·
am I screwed?

I got my oil changed at a Quick Lube this Monday. By Tuesday my power steering was moaning and the brakes were mushy. On Wednesday, the engine overheated with really no warning and even after I let it cool down, it would not turnover when I tried to crank it. No sound whatsoever when I turn the key, no clicks or anything. Is the engine seized or is a sensor cutting out the ignition signal?
 
#12 ·
I think this is good advice. From what I understand from reading posts on here about overheating, the BMW's, for the most part, are prone and very sensitive to overheating.

A worst case scenario just flashed in my head. If it got hot enough, it's also possible the engine seized.

When I attended SCCA events, like auto-x and "Production" class racing, I saw a guy cook a 3 series motor. My friends pit was next door. I heard the dude yell to all hell when he found out the engine seized up.

Hopefully, it's something relatively easy to fix. Just haven't heard of a BMW overheating and it being a minor fix. :confused: :dunno:
 
#16 · (Edited)
Haven't been there, but usually the neutral safety switches work off the shift linkage. That's where I'd start looking anyway.

Another thing would be to check the voltage to the starter. I'd try and jump the solenoid and see if it will turn over, this would bypass all the safety switches and sensors.

Jim
 
#23 · (Edited)
You're going to need to figure out if it's seized or not, that's the first step. Either jump the starter or pull all the spark plugs and try and turn it over by hand. If there is any question about the starter, turning it over by hand is the better choice.

Acoste makes a good point, as you're turning it over by hand see if one of the belt driven units is impeding progress.

Jim
 
#24 ·
Doesnt sound to me like a siezed engine. He's getting no electrical signals anywhere. If it were cooked the starter solenoid would still try to kick in. Still, getting a socket and bar on the main pulley will confirm that....even without having to remove plugs.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
#29 ·
Yes, before model year 1999 the F15 can prevent cranking since that supplies the position selector switch of the automatic transmission.
 
#36 ·
I think the water is circulating but it's hard to say. I filled up the radiator, cranked the engine, and the fluid level dropped. Then it was raise and go back down, so it appears to be circulating. It didn't get hot on me this time but I didn't drive it either. It's still running really rough
 
#37 ·
BMW cooling systems are pressurised. There's a bleeder screw atop the expansion tank that needs to be eased back to allow the cooling system to burb any air out. From memory this is done after the engine is warmed up a little. Having said that You may have a head gasket issue!

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
 
#40 ·
That's exactly the symptom to diagnose a blown head gasket. Hopefully, it's not severely warped or cracked. When you take the head in to get it machined flat again, they should check for any cracks, but ask to make sure.

It's called "magafluxing", a procedure that will find any cracks, before the do any work to it. However, I'm not sure how this works with an aluminum head. The process uses a magnetic field in the process, hmm. :confused:

http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Magnafluxing.html

Some info on the process in the above link.
 
#41 ·
So not to extend false hope but can you rule out that the quick lube didn't mix things up in terms of fluids?
Might want to try draining and filling with fresh oil... confirm the goop. After all even $80 in oil to confirm is likely a pittance vs the head job. Even if you do all the work and just have the head machined.
 
#48 ·
After I pulled the oil level sensor I took it back to Quick Lube and watched them change the fluids. It's possible that the damage was already done though. It is still overheating and running like hell. It sounds like a tractor and will barely stay cranked when at a stop.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top